Leaking Sand Dollar SD80

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SickPup404

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Apr 5, 2013
59
Delaware Beaches
Well, after only eight years, our SD80 sprung a leak tonight...

I was looking at the thread here and am not sure what I need to look for as far as capacity, etc. I have my Intermatic timer set up to run the filter about 10 hours a day (installed with guidance from the good peeps here!).

Details in my sig, but other questions I have:
  • Do I reuse the valve, or do all the replacement filters come with one?
  • My pump/filter/plumbing is not covered or housed in anything. Could this contribute to the early failure?
  • What else should I replace now?
  • I already picked up some Jandy Never Lube valves to replace the cheap white Jandy 6955 valves last year and haven't installed them yet. Since my local pool installer didn't put unions on the valve, I'm going to be doing new plumbing too I guess...
  • I stopped using the CL200 chlorinator a couple years ago after being converted to the TFP method. Should I just rip it out or put it back in with the new plumbing?
  • Saw several people on Amazon reviews complain about the price on the HTH filter sand. A lot said to get silica sand at Lowes/HD for about $10/bag. Good idea?
  • Since I have Prime, it looks like Amazon would be the best for price/shipping. Or would it be better to go back to b&m pool supply?

I really want to just blow a weekend and get everything done right and not have to revisit something else in the next few years... Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

TIA!
Sick
 
Been looking at the Hayward's.... S270T and S270T2, S244T or S244T2, or maybe the S220T. Not sure why the 220t is more expensive than the 244's...

Which would be a better match and allow me to cut back on the filter time to save some electricity?

Thx!
 
FYI,

I'm slowly finding answers the more and more I Google around on the web...

The difference between the "T" and "T2" versions of filters like the S244/S270 is the "T2" uses 2" plumbing on the valve, while the other uses 1½"...

Also, got a quote from the pool store that installed the pool. About $800 for the S270T, sand, installation visit, plus misc plumbing.
 
OK, I have narrowed down my choices to either the Hayward S244T or S270T.

Here's the important info:
- Original installer used the Pentair SD80.
- Pump is a 1HP Pentair Pinnacle rated for about 115GPM
- Totaling all the runs, I'm guesstimating I have about 170' of PVC, about 80' of it is to the skimmers, 90 of it is to returns/jets.
- I'm currently running the pump 10 hours a day.

I'm looking at Amazon - $285 for the S244T, $415 for the S270T... Do I need to spend the extra $130 on the S270T since it's similarly sized to the SD80, or can I drop to the S244T size? Am I correct in assuming with the S270T I can actually cut back filter time to about 8 hours?
 
Pump run time is mostly up to you. Theoretically, you only need enough time to fully distribute chlorine each day when you add (or for an SWCG). After that, it's how long you need to adequately skim debris from the surface and maintain the clarity you desire. Larger filters do that better, but skimming action also has a lot to do with it. I run mine 6-8 hours per day and I'm happy with the clarity.

If you're looking for an example here is my thread when I replaced mine, complete with pitfalls of not selecting the optimum PVC parts and not planning quite enough with unions. Replacing Multiport Valve...
 
TYVM! Being a programmer, I fear NO technical mumbo-jumbo! Agh!

- - - Updated - - -

LOL! A quick scroll and I see the pictures on check valves. My installer used the "stay away from these hardware store variety".... LOL! Guess I'm adding another Jandy piece to my cart!!
 
Just a bump to try to get answers on the unanswered questions I had above:
(I've settled on either the Hayward S244T or S270T.)

  • I will be redoing the plumbing. What else should I replace now? (I have Jandy Never-Lube valves, and will be getting a new Jandy Check valve as well.)
  • I stopped using the CL200 chlorinator. Should I just leave it out or reinstall it with the new plumbing?
  • Saw several people on Amazon reviews complain about the price on the HTH filter sand. A lot said to get silica sand at Lowes/HD for about $10/bag. Good idea?
  • I'm looking at Amazon - $285 for the S244T, $413 for the S270T... Do I need to spend the extra $128? JVTrain seems to think so, and I read other places that "bigger is better"...

Thanks!
 

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First, with a 26k gallon pool I wouldn't even recommend the 270. I'd recommend larger than that. I'd probably go with a large cartridge filter.

I'd leave the tablet feeder off.

If you do go with the sand filter, you don't have to buy HTH (or any other brand name) but you must buy #20/#21 filter sand. Lowes & HD both have it.
 
Larger than the S270T? Why? The two Hayward sand filters larger (S310T2, S360T2) both need 2" plumbing. Everything in my installation is 1½", so doesn't that involve ripping out everything?

Do you have any thoughts on which cartridge filter? I started looking at the Hayward lines and am not sure what kind of filter area I need , nor what their differences are between the StarClear, StarClear Plus, & SwimClear...

For the chlorinator, I think I'm going to put a piece of straight PVC in with Hayward unions so I can easily put it back in if I need it, but leave it out.

Thanks for the specs on sand too!

[EDIT]
After reading and reading, I found the Swim Clear uses a cluster of four cartridges to get the higher filter area, while the Star Clear uses one, thus the smaller filter area. Also see where the Swim Clear needs 2"-2½" plumbing! Sheesh!
[/EDIT]
 
Last edited:
Having 1½" pipe doesn't exclude using a larger filter. You'll have to replumb into and out of the filter with 2" but you can step up and down as needed to get back to the original size piping.

I like Pentair filters, but that's just what I'm familiar with. I'm sure the other brands are just as good. I'd recommend at least a 300 sqft cartridge for your pool.
 
Decided to stick with what I know and get an S270T sand filter. The extra $150 for the cartridge filter was steep for the season (April-September) and amount of use (2-3 people, 3-4 times/month) we have here.

Now that the filter is on the way, I have a couple plumbing questions:

- Is it better to have one 90 degree elbow, or two 45 degree with a short distance between them (like 6-8")?
- The filter comes with a Hayward Vari-Flow valve. I think the Hayward SP14953S union will thread in, but is there enough clearance between the Pump port and Return port to thread two in directly to the valve? Would it be better/easier to put in a short stub of PVC to move the unions out and offset them?
- I'd like to try to put in a straight piece of PVC that has unions that if needed I could put the CL200 feeder back in service (I plan on leaving it out right now). The feeder is installed with the Hayward SP1500UNPAK2 unions. Anyone know what fittings I could use to duplicate the setup of the feeder with male threads to mate up to the SP1500UNPAK2 unions?
 
SickPup404 said:
Another quick (stupid) question: For draining, since I would be losing the top valve, would I just need to drop in a 3-way valve to get the waste line for winterizing/lowering water level?
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean here by losing the top valve. The S270T has a top mounted multiport valve. You may be able to reuse the waste line and toggle valve from the old multiport and attach to the new multiport as long as it is in decent shape and has the right sizing. Having a leaky valve on the waste line or waste line adapter really isn't a big deal so no need to replace that if you don't have to. Pictures may help if you can upload one to a photo sharing site and share it here.

SickPup404 said:
Decided to stick with what I know and get an S270T sand filter. The extra $150 for the cartridge filter was steep for the season (April-September) and amount of use (2-3 people, 3-4 times/month) we have here.

Now that the filter is on the way, I have a couple plumbing questions:

- Is it better to have one 90 degree elbow, or two 45 degree with a short distance between them (like 6-8")?
- The filter comes with a Hayward Vari-Flow valve. I think the Hayward SP14953S union will thread in, but is there enough clearance between the Pump port and Return port to thread two in directly to the valve? Would it be better/easier to put in a short stub of PVC to move the unions out and offset them?
- I'd like to try to put in a straight piece of PVC that has unions that if needed I could put the CL200 feeder back in service (I plan on leaving it out right now). The feeder is installed with the Hayward SP1500UNPAK2 unions. Anyone know what fittings I could use to duplicate the setup of the feeder with male threads to mate up to the SP1500UNPAK2 unions?
Click to expand...

I think you'll be fine with the S270T. It is a bit undersized for the pool but so is mine and your season is also short like mine. You won't get the increased filtering ability of a cartridge filter, but adding a little DE to a sand filter can help it out.

- Two 45s will give you less turbulence than 1 90 even with a fairly short run between them.
- It's unlikely you'll be able to put the unions directly into the multiport. Not enough room to fit them but I guess I've never tried it and it's worth a shot to dry fit them in to see if it works.
- I'm unsure on the unions for the CL200 but I would guess they would marry up with 1.5" PVC union fittings. You'll have some on hand anyway when you start the replumbing. Test those on the CL200.
 
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