Variable speed install

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P

photo2u

0
Jan 3, 2010
102
Claremont california
Hello friends,
I am trying to install the new pump again. In the past, I used the terrible piping job that was already present. This time I have plenty of time and want to do it correctly by trying to improve in the way the pipes are aligned.
Do to the limited space in the pool shed I am trying to do the best possible install with what I have.
I have the following equipment.
A) 1.5 copper underground pipes in the return and intakes. Two returns one feeds the pool the other the spa. Three intakes connected to two skimmers and two drains (pool and spa)
B) Pentair variable speed pump

Due to the fact that my intake pipes are not strait and are very close to each other, I think I might need to compromise by capping the spa drain intake in order to install a 3 way valve.
I do not want to do a sloppy job and want to keep my pump at its optimum.
My other my concern is the very short 10 inch distance between my pump intake and the intake pipes.
I will continue with my install based on feedback I receive.
I thank you in advance,
G.
 
Can you be more specific with which pipe is what?
What are the suction lines for? You mention 3 pipes and 4 items (2 skimmer, pool floor, spa floor).
If you cap the spa floor, then you can not heat the spa. So that seems puzzling to me.

What is to the near side of the pump in you picture? Could you gain more room by rotating the pump 90 degrees CCW and moving it out toward where you are standing?

I remember previously suggesting short stubs of flex off the copper to get things to line up.
You could run the suction lines to the right some to get more space, then up and into valves and back to the pump. (although 10" of strait pipe into the pump should be fine.

These are the fun puzzles I like to try to put together :D
 
new install WITH WRI.jpg
jblizzle said:
Can you be more specific with which pipe is what?
What are the suction lines for? You mention 3 pipes and 4 items (2 skimmer, pool floor, spa floor).
If you cap the spa floor, then you can not heat the spa. So that seems puzzling to me.

What is to the near side of the pump in you picture? Could you gain more room by rotating the pump 90 degrees CCW and moving it out toward where you are standing?

I remember previously suggesting short stubs of flex off the copper to get things to line up.
You could run the suction lines to the right some to get more space, then up and into valves and back to the pump. (although 10" of strait pipe into the pump should be fine.

These are the fun puzzles I like to try to put together :D
Click to expand...


Hi Thanks so much for getting back to me again. The suction lines are connected like this (top to bottom)
Top suction: comes from skimmer/pool drain---Middle suction is for the spa drain. Lower suction is for the other skimmer.
To resolve my plumbing problems I am thinking in the following two options.
Option 1 is the use individual ball valves for each line. They will go up straight from the 3 suction section. Then an elbow will turn 90 degrees CCW towards the pump. At the pump I will have a nipple with a four way fitting at the opening of the pump’s intake (one opening will go to the pump the other two will be connected with elbows. The middle suction will be connected straight to the cross fitting.
Option 2 is to cap the center suction (spa drain) and just use the two skimmers controlled by a three way valve. If the need to quickly use the spa drain for a special reason it should not be very difficult since I will be using 1.5 PVC unions at vital locations. Taking off and on the skimmer lines should be no problem
I was also considering going old school with the no valve on the suction and just cap or uncap the skimmers depending in the applications. What are your thoughts on this?
For the return, since I only have two returns, I will probably use one valve to control the flow to the spa and the pool. One return is use to feed the spa four small water returns. The other return is use to feed the two bigger pool returns that are responsible for water moment in the pool.
I am including an image of the pool’s equipment. The green lines represent the possible plumbing option ONE.
I THANK YOU FOR THE TIME YOU PUT IN TO REVIEW MY INSTALL.
G.
 
I do not know what a one-side union valve is by that name.

I really do not like the idea you have about using a cross piece right in front of the pump ... that could cause problems as then want at least some straight pipe coming into the pump.

I also do not understand the thought of capping the spa drain. Don't you ever use the spa?

I really do not like either Option 1 or Option 2, but it is hard lay out a system of pipes not being there seeing the spacing and alignment.
 
jblizzle said:
I do not know what a one-side union valve is by that name.

I really do not like the idea you have about using a cross piece right in front of the pump ... that could cause problems as then want at least some straight pipe coming into the pump.

I also do not understand the thought of capping the spa drain. Don't you ever use the spa?

I really do not like either Option 1 or Option 2, but it is hard lay out a system of pipes not being there seeing the spacing and alignment.
Click to expand...

thanks for getting back to me in such a fast time.

I truly do not know the actual name of the valves but this how they look like:single union valve.jpg

For the cross in front of the pump, I do agree with you. I do use the spa. However, I hardly use it's drain. All of the water the circulates from the spa, comes from the skimmers/pool drain. Most of the spa's water flows into the pool.

The pool image shows how the water falls into the pool when the spa is getting water from the return jets.

pool drain with spa full of water.jpg

If necessary, I might need to do some changes in the above ground plumbing section of my system.

I hope that soon I will be ready to plumb the system. My 10 year old daughter can hardly wait. LOL

Thanks for your helpful observations,
G.
 
If you are not recirculating the water in the spa, how does it every get hot? Sounds like a massive waste of heat.

If you are going to use valve like that, I would suggest the double union ones so that you can replace the inner part when it stiffens up and the handle breaks.

Are you using a digital camera from the 1920s? These pictures are horrible :lol:
 
jblizzle said:
If you are not recirculating the water in the spa, how does it every get hot? Sounds like a massive waste of heat.

If you are going to use valve like that, I would suggest the double union ones so that you can replace the inner part when it stiffens up and the handle breaks.

Are you using a digital camera from the 1920s? These pictures are horrible :lol:
Click to expand...


Thanks for responding!

I actually do not turn on the heater that much. I truly do not use it at all. The camera I am using is from my s4 phone. However, Sometimes I do take images with my pro slr digital cameras. LOL.

I am going to move the pump as sugested ccw 90 degrees and will experiment to see if I can make it work.

I will keep you posted!

G.
 
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