We have had a terrible season with water problems and now I have algae again so I want to slam. I have a couple of questions. I understand how to calculate my shock level ( scary) but I don't understand how long do I maintain it at that shock level. I have re read the instructions many times and I still cannot get it. Could you briefly explain? Also what is CC? All the tests I have do not show that. Is it Total available chlorine? I am off to the store to buy more bleach and a test kit. I need to get it under control like yesterday. I did shock it yesterday and see grey debris on the stairs but still it is green but I think I am on the right track but do not want to haphazardly being adding a guessing amount of shock. So I am going the slam method and I want to stay away from the pool stores and just follow you all!
First time slamming
- Thread starter jlawlor
- Start date
First of all.......you will NOT be able to maintain SLAM level without one of our recommended test kits which has a fas-dpd chlorine test kit. The TF100 is what you want from www.tftestkits.net. CC is combined chloramines and is the bad stuff/by product from oxidizing contaminants in your water. Read how to SLAM your pool in pool school. You are not done until you have passed the 3 criteria listed there. Please add a signature line to your profile listing your pool, type, and equipment.
Welcome jlawlor! You sound frustrated and I completely understand why! The first step to easing that frustration is to stay out of the pool stores. Their advice obviously hasn't worked so far so why continue? Stop adding chemicals in an attempt to "shock" it into submission. You need good, sound advice that will actually clear your pool. The second step is just as woodyp advised. You need a good test kit. See the link in my signature for the most recommended kit around here. I know it's a little pricey but consider it an investment into finally taking control of your own pool! The TF-100 is only available online so order now because it takes a few days to arrive. While you wait for your kit to arrive, you have summer school!
Now, I'm gonna admit: I copy and pasted these handy links from one of my previous post because it's quite a bit to type out. However, the information is very applicable in your situation as well.
:lookhere: Pool School is the beginning of all things pool. The TroubleFree method teaches you what is in your pool, how each element intertwines with the others, and how to manipulate those levels to keep a clear, sparkling, and sanitized pool without costly pool store chemicals.
:lookhere: TFP dictionary has some handy terms and explanations of all things pool to help you speak the language.
:lookhere: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry are the things you test for using your new kit.
:lookhere: The Chlorine/CYA relationship chart is a very important concept to master. The amount of free chlorine is determined by the type of pool you have in conjunction with the amount of CYA you have. The higher the CYA, the higher your constant minumum free chlorine level should be.
:lookhere: This explains that all forms of chlorine are not created equal. Yes, chlorine is chlorine is chlorine. It will sanitize your pool. It's the delivery mode that is important in order to keep things balanced.
:lookhere: Pool Math is the greatest invention ever! At the top of each page is a direct link to Pool Math. Enter your pool's information and the calculator will tell you how much of everything you need to add to achieve desired levels. At the bottom of Pool Math, you will also find a handy tool that will simply tell you the effects of adding various chemicals.
:lookhere: Recommended levels is a chart that tells you how much of each thing you should have for your pool type. Developed by someone much smarter than myself but I do use it as my "pool bible."
:lookhere: Should you have a water clarity problem or chemical balance problem or visible algae, this SLAM article will be very helpful for you. This is what you will be doing soon! You asked when a SLAM was over. Well, a SLAM is finished when these 3 things happen at the same time: 1. your water is clear as glass 2. you have no CC (see woody's post) AND 3. your over night chlorine loss test (OCLT) is 1 ppm or less. And understand that a SLAM is not synonymous with "shock." A SLAM is a process with a beginning and end - it may take hours to days to complete. You start by hitting algae hard and frequently until it's totally (not just visibly) gone so that it doesn't come back!
So when you get your kit, run a set of numbers and post them back to this thread. There are plenty of people willing to help. All they ask is that you educate yourself as much as possible by searching and reading the forums. Oh, and some information about your general location and pool specifics added to your signature is very helpful as some advice will be locale specific. You can find out how to do that here:
:lookhere: Update me! Welcome and good luck!
Now, I'm gonna admit: I copy and pasted these handy links from one of my previous post because it's quite a bit to type out. However, the information is very applicable in your situation as well.
:lookhere: Pool School is the beginning of all things pool. The TroubleFree method teaches you what is in your pool, how each element intertwines with the others, and how to manipulate those levels to keep a clear, sparkling, and sanitized pool without costly pool store chemicals.
:lookhere: TFP dictionary has some handy terms and explanations of all things pool to help you speak the language.
:lookhere: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry are the things you test for using your new kit.
:lookhere: The Chlorine/CYA relationship chart is a very important concept to master. The amount of free chlorine is determined by the type of pool you have in conjunction with the amount of CYA you have. The higher the CYA, the higher your constant minumum free chlorine level should be.
:lookhere: This explains that all forms of chlorine are not created equal. Yes, chlorine is chlorine is chlorine. It will sanitize your pool. It's the delivery mode that is important in order to keep things balanced.
:lookhere: Pool Math is the greatest invention ever! At the top of each page is a direct link to Pool Math. Enter your pool's information and the calculator will tell you how much of everything you need to add to achieve desired levels. At the bottom of Pool Math, you will also find a handy tool that will simply tell you the effects of adding various chemicals.
:lookhere: Recommended levels is a chart that tells you how much of each thing you should have for your pool type. Developed by someone much smarter than myself but I do use it as my "pool bible."
:lookhere: Should you have a water clarity problem or chemical balance problem or visible algae, this SLAM article will be very helpful for you. This is what you will be doing soon! You asked when a SLAM was over. Well, a SLAM is finished when these 3 things happen at the same time: 1. your water is clear as glass 2. you have no CC (see woody's post) AND 3. your over night chlorine loss test (OCLT) is 1 ppm or less. And understand that a SLAM is not synonymous with "shock." A SLAM is a process with a beginning and end - it may take hours to days to complete. You start by hitting algae hard and frequently until it's totally (not just visibly) gone so that it doesn't come back!
So when you get your kit, run a set of numbers and post them back to this thread. There are plenty of people willing to help. All they ask is that you educate yourself as much as possible by searching and reading the forums. Oh, and some information about your general location and pool specifics added to your signature is very helpful as some advice will be locale specific. You can find out how to do that here:
:lookhere: Update me! Welcome and good luck!
Thanks! I will order right away. Another newbie question - how do I add something to my signature line?
Go to settings after you login which is under the pool School button upper right hand corner--then edit signature on the left side of that page.
This may be a dumb question but on the bleach that I have it says for ingredients: Sodium Hypo chloride 8.25%. But it also says yields 7.86% available chlorine. So which percentage should I go by?
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
This is the info we would like to have you add about your pool to your signature : http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/165-getting-started
Top of the page, on the right, under "Pool School" is "settings", once you clink on that you go to new page. On the left, third box down "My Settings" you want "Edit Signature" and that is where you add you pool info.
Top of the page, on the right, under "Pool School" is "settings", once you clink on that you go to new page. On the left, third box down "My Settings" you want "Edit Signature" and that is where you add you pool info.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Consider getting the Speedstir - - > http://tftestkits.net/SpeedStir-Magnetic-Stirrer-p56.html It really is so much better than trying to swirl mix the chemicals with one hand while adding drops with the other.
See it working: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_EJknrPjYE
If you're getting a TF-100 you can order it from them at the same time if you're getting the K-2006 it's on amazon and Ebay.
As you will be buying a lot of bleach it's handy knowing how much per oz you are actually paying for the bleach in the bottle as the bottles are different sizes and come in different strengths. Here is a handy calculator to figure out what you are paying and what is a good deal. http://poncatechsquad.com/Dan/Chlorine/
Thanks for all of the help. I thought I was doing good with the price of bleach and by using the link I was given it said poor! I have my signature changed and now all I need is my test kit ( I will look into the speedstir). Again thank you. It has been a very frustrating pool season and I am so glad I have found this forum!
Hey jlawlor! Welcome.
You asked when you stop the SLAM?
You can stop when your pool water looks like this:
You lose less than 1FC by performing the Overnight FC Loss Test (you need the TF100 or K2006 to do this test)
And, you have .5CC or less.
You asked when you stop the SLAM?
You can stop when your pool water looks like this:
You lose less than 1FC by performing the Overnight FC Loss Test (you need the TF100 or K2006 to do this test)
And, you have .5CC or less.
Thank you everyone. Well I had Leslies help me out with the water testing and my slamming seemed to go well. I met all the test result requirements. They tested my water yesterday and the PH was 7.1,alkalinity 100, Cyn 20 and chlorine 7.5. I've adjusted the PH ( love all the cost saving tips - used 20 Mule Borax) and I want to increase my Cyn. I figure 4lbs to start. The sock method sounds interesting. Just put a sock filled with the granules in the skimmer? Am I getting the hang of this? Looking forward to my new test kit that is for sure!
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes, you are getting the hang of it AND the savings 
CYA / stabilizer in a sock and toss it in the skimmer or hang it in front of a return. Helps it along if you knead the sock once in a while. Squeezing it just speeds it up.
CYA / stabilizer in a sock and toss it in the skimmer or hang it in front of a return. Helps it along if you knead the sock once in a while. Squeezing it just speeds it up.
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