I want to make sure I understand, the CH value is not as important as long as CSI is 0 to 0.6 for a vinyl lined pool. I am asking because my CH has been around 1000, but all other readings look great.
CH
- Thread starter kmwest3302
- Start date
Low CH is not a problem with a vinyl pool, but high CH can be. You can still grow scale, especially in areas with poor water circulation. It's like grow-your-own sandpaper. You can actually get roadrash if you knock your knee against the pool wall. With a vinyl liner, you can't attack it with a stainless steel brush, either.
So the question is: how did you test? Did you multiply by the right factor? And did you swirl by hand or with a speedstir? My CH dropped 200 points just by switching to using the speedstir. If you're really at 1000, I'm pretty certain your wrist and your patience gave out early.
If the CH really and truly is 1000, you need to deal with it. I battle high CH constantly, and above 800, it gets difficult to keep CSI in range. Just raise the water temperature and CSI jumps up.
Do you have hard water in your area? Test the tap water and find out. Draining 25% won't get you to 750 CH is the fill water is at 300 CH.
Second worry: are you chlorinating with powdered shock? Cal-hypo adds a lot of CH along with the chlorine.
So the question is: how did you test? Did you multiply by the right factor? And did you swirl by hand or with a speedstir? My CH dropped 200 points just by switching to using the speedstir. If you're really at 1000, I'm pretty certain your wrist and your patience gave out early.
If the CH really and truly is 1000, you need to deal with it. I battle high CH constantly, and above 800, it gets difficult to keep CSI in range. Just raise the water temperature and CSI jumps up.
Do you have hard water in your area? Test the tap water and find out. Draining 25% won't get you to 750 CH is the fill water is at 300 CH.
Second worry: are you chlorinating with powdered shock? Cal-hypo adds a lot of CH along with the chlorine.
Richard, I believe I have tested correctly. I do have a speed stir. I have fought a copper level at 3+, that is now down to 0.8. I was under the impression that will effect test results (ie fading endpoint). Yes, we have hard well water. Only chlorinating with Bleach.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Richard, I believe I have tested correctly. I do have a speed stir. I have fought a copper level at 3+, that is now down to 0.8. I was under the impression that will effect test results (ie fading endpoint). Yes, we have hard well water. Only chlorinating with Bleach.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Not tonight -- save the reagents, just the next time you test CH -- try adding 10 drops of R-0012 first, and let the speedstir run a full cycle. Then add the 10 drops of R-0010 and let that mix a good while. Then use 5 drops of R-0011. It will make the color deeper and easier to read. That's what I do. Then start the R-0012 titration. When it starts to look purple, run a full cycle on each drop. It may take 6 or 8 more, but it will turn blue, and you'll see it. Don't forget to count the 10 drops you added up front.
How confident are you in that 1,000 ppm reading? 1,000 ppm is unlikely unless there is some reason it would be that high. What is the calcium hardness of your tap water? What has been added that could account for the increase over the initial tap reading?
Richard, I did a test tonight . . . I followed the directions from a post it at the beginning of one of the forums. I started with 5 drops of R-0012 into 10 ml of an equal mixture of distilled water and pool water. Then continued with the same procedure you just described, except I am unsure of your timeframes of "full cycle" ?
My readings were as follows: 12 initial drops of R-0012 (including initial five) = fushcia, 8 more drops = bluish/purple, 2 more drops = blue. So, 22 drops x 2 = 44 x 25 = 1100. Now, I was putting drops in immediately...no waiting.
Thanks
My readings were as follows: 12 initial drops of R-0012 (including initial five) = fushcia, 8 more drops = bluish/purple, 2 more drops = blue. So, 22 drops x 2 = 44 x 25 = 1100. Now, I was putting drops in immediately...no waiting.
Thanks
James, please see my response to Richard's post. I am confident I followed the directions, but for timing of drops it sounds like. I have not taken a reading of my tap water. I know we are on a well, that is filtered (to a degree) with a water softener. However, I do not believe the outside faucets receive the softened water. I began using Trouble Free system about 2-1/2 months ago. The pool store's last report showed CH at 514. Thanks!
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Sorry, it is called a "Sticky" titled Extended Test Kit Directions.
- - - Updated - - -
Sorry, it is called a "Sticky" titled Extended Test Kit Directions.
James, I wondered the same...I have used CuLator and Copper dropped from 3+ to 1.1, then I have been adding Jack's Magic Blue. Copper last was at 0.8
My concern is that if the result doesn't make sense, then it might not be correct.Unless the fill water has very high calcium levels or something with calcium was added, then it's unlikely for the calcium to be that high.
However, if the calcium hardness really is that high, you are at risk of scaling. To be safe, you should manage as if the level is that high unless you can confirm that it isn't.
A partial drain and refill might be worthwhile. But only if you can do it safely.
However, if the calcium hardness really is that high, you are at risk of scaling. To be safe, you should manage as if the level is that high unless you can confirm that it isn't.
A partial drain and refill might be worthwhile. But only if you can do it safely.
The speedstir shuts off automatically after a minute or something. That's what I consider a cycle.
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