This is the first year with SWG and I screwed up w/o keeping up with our FC so we got algae. I have read pool school and slamming and am trying to correct the situation, but am confused about tests. I have these tests : Aquacheck Salt Water Chlorine Generator Test Strips, Poolmaster 22260 Basic 5-Way Test Kit with Case, and AquaChek 541604A Select Kit Test Strip for Swimming Pools. Will this be enough to correctly track my FC for the SLAMming process or do I need the TFT-100? The last one does text FC, CC, and CYA. Thanks for your advice and help!
Test and algae help
- Thread starter amb
- Start date
None of those kits are adequate because they do not include the FAS-DPD chlorine test which is required to perform the SLAM process.
Do yourself a favor and throw the test strips away ... can you really differentiate the FC and CC to 0.5ppm? And can it actually read FC levels up around 30ppm which may be required depending on your CYA level?
Given your pool size, it may be cheaper to drain, clean, and start over. But even then you should only use drop based kit and not the strips. This may offer some info that could help: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/155-guide-for-seasonal-temporary-pools
Do yourself a favor and throw the test strips away ... can you really differentiate the FC and CC to 0.5ppm? And can it actually read FC levels up around 30ppm which may be required depending on your CYA level?
Given your pool size, it may be cheaper to drain, clean, and start over. But even then you should only use drop based kit and not the strips. This may offer some info that could help: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/155-guide-for-seasonal-temporary-pools
Short answer: No.
Just toss the test strips out. You will need a drop-type cloudiness CYA tester. If one of those kits has it, you're okay there. If you have a drop-type pH tester, you're good there. You don't need to order a full TF-100. You can add what you're lacking here: http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p47.html Or, if you have a pH tester, a TF50 will also have the rest of it: http://tftestkits.net/Test-Kits-c4/
Just toss the test strips out. You will need a drop-type cloudiness CYA tester. If one of those kits has it, you're okay there. If you have a drop-type pH tester, you're good there. You don't need to order a full TF-100. You can add what you're lacking here: http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p47.html Or, if you have a pH tester, a TF50 will also have the rest of it: http://tftestkits.net/Test-Kits-c4/
Thank you for your help. jblizzle, you raised the same question I asked my husband the other day. Should we just drain the pool and start again. My problem was at settup I didn't realize I needed to add chlorine to start and thought the SWG would suffice...which, of course, it didn't. I will order the tests I need, but in the mean time should I empty the pool and start again knowing I will need to add chlorine? Or should I go through the process of SLAMing the pool?
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Thank you both for your help! Jblizzle, you raised the same question I asked my husband the other day. Should we just drain the pool and start again. My problem was at settup I didn't realize I needed to add chlorine to start and thought the SWG would suffice...which, of course, it didn't. I will order the tests I need, but in the mean time should I empty the pool and start again knowing I will need to add chlorine? Or should I go through the process of SLAMing the pool?
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Thank you both for your help! Jblizzle, you raised the same question I asked my husband the other day. Should we just drain the pool and start again. My problem was at settup I didn't realize I needed to add chlorine to start and thought the SWG would suffice...which, of course, it didn't. I will order the tests I need, but in the mean time should I empty the pool and start again knowing I will need to add chlorine? Or should I go through the process of SLAMing the pool?
Without too much knowledge or reading, my husband did try to super shock our pool on Sunday. It took away the green and the cloudiness is slowly getting better. My concern is that our FC is still low so since we didn't follow the SLAM process there might be some algae still alive in the pool. I know we should do an overnight FC test and that is where the better test is needed. I am surprised that our water smells so strongly of chlorine, yet our FC is low. I am going to go test right now and will post the results...granted with my "strip" test and basic test.
This is strictly my opinion, but it seems that drain and refill would be the easiest option, much less work than going through SLAM. You still want a good test kit though, it pays for itself many times over.
jccams
0
The smell is because the chlorine is oxidizing something in the water. A pool with no organics in the water (properly balanced) won't give off any odor.
So I realize I need to purchase a new kit? I know I am not getting as detailed results as I need. These results are from last night.
FC: Zero or between 0 and 0.5 (test strips)
CC: between one and two (drops test)
PH: between 7.8 and 8.2 (drops test)
TA: 290 or 300 (drops test)
BR: Between 2.2 and 4.4 (drops test)
CH: Off the charts...the highest reading of 1000 (test strips)
CYA: between zero and 30-50 (test strips)
Salt: 4470 (test strips)
Given the results and the pool size...we are thinking of draining, scrubbing, refilling, and trying to do it correctly this time. I need to call around and find CYA, none of our big box stores in the town near us carried it. There is a pool store or two and I hope to find it there (of course said town is an hour and a half away). There must have been some in the super shock we used once our pool turned green because for a few days we were reading in the 30-50 range (but given the cloudy organic that remained-since we didn't SLAM it, I am guessing- it is lowering). So given this info, we should drain and restart instead of SLAM? Should I purchase the TFT-100? What can we do to lower water hardness? On pool math it says to replace (x)% of water in pool with water with a hardness of zero, but that isn't an option as our well water is very hard. Ugh...and I told my husband that the SWG would make our lives easier. Oops!
FC: Zero or between 0 and 0.5 (test strips)
CC: between one and two (drops test)
PH: between 7.8 and 8.2 (drops test)
TA: 290 or 300 (drops test)
BR: Between 2.2 and 4.4 (drops test)
CH: Off the charts...the highest reading of 1000 (test strips)
CYA: between zero and 30-50 (test strips)
Salt: 4470 (test strips)
Given the results and the pool size...we are thinking of draining, scrubbing, refilling, and trying to do it correctly this time. I need to call around and find CYA, none of our big box stores in the town near us carried it. There is a pool store or two and I hope to find it there (of course said town is an hour and a half away). There must have been some in the super shock we used once our pool turned green because for a few days we were reading in the 30-50 range (but given the cloudy organic that remained-since we didn't SLAM it, I am guessing- it is lowering). So given this info, we should drain and restart instead of SLAM? Should I purchase the TFT-100? What can we do to lower water hardness? On pool math it says to replace (x)% of water in pool with water with a hardness of zero, but that isn't an option as our well water is very hard. Ugh...and I told my husband that the SWG would make our lives easier. Oops!
You can not go wrong with the TF-100. The Speed Stir is a very nice option if you have the cash to spare.
What were you asking for when looking for CYA?
It is usually called stabilizer or conditioner. The ingredient is cyanuric acid.
Don't trust the test strip readings.
It is usually called stabilizer or conditioner. The ingredient is cyanuric acid.
Don't trust the test strip readings.
Is there anything I can do about hard water beyond reverse osmosis? I notice the cell on our SWG gets coated in the matter of days and we have to clean it with vinegar. I think I am noticing some scaling in the water, but not sure if that is what it is. Granted we are still trying to work out our chemical levels (and may be draining it and refilling it tonight and tomorrow) so maybe some of that is from levels out of whack???? I am hoping? Is there anything else we can do for hard water? If we get our levels under control (or drain and refill...if that is best) can we do something to get the hardness under control?
Yes. Maintain the chemistry. Specifically keep your pH much lower and drive the TA down. But with a CH that high, even this may not completely stop it.
Should we drain it or should we continue with our current water. We did a super shock (before I had read about SLAM). It is no longer green, a little cloudy. That has been since Saturday or Sunday, I believe. From what I am reading in these comments and else where, it looks like our cloudy water might be from organics (bc we could smell the chlorine and it dropped to zero?) but perhaps that is also because our CYA dropped and wasn't protected from the sun? I guess I am just trying to decide if we should drain or continue on with this water and can't seem to figure that out??? Thank you for ALL your help!
Ok, I will order the test tonight. Wish it could get here fast, but....we will wait. Is the Test Kit comparison page link the best place to go or is there a "closer" location to order it? Side note: I am pretty sure my husband just rolled his eyes at me when I told him not to empty the pool and I would have to buy another test kit. He is ready for a clear pool...and I told him the SWG wouldn't be a lot of work, but sadly it hasn't been easy since I didn't know what I was doing. Should have read up on how to run it this past winter. Darn! Thanks for all your help.