New pool. Green owner, green pool.

[gingern]

Hi. This is my very first pool (that I am attempting to service myself) and my very first post on any forum. Please bear with me and my extreme lack of knowledge.

I own a 10K gallon vinyl Intex pool. I use a saltwater filtration system.

1-My pool has been inundated with TONS of oak leaves in the past few weeks (we need to figure out a convenient way of keeping a pool cover on it).
2-The water is very warm (unfortunately our thermometer just broke) somewhere between 80-90° F
3-The water is beginning to turn green. (like me)
4-Here are our current levels:
ch- almost non-existent (was approx 1.5 about 5 days ago)
ph- 7.2
total Alk- 150~160
water hardness- 70
cyanuric acid 90~100 (The cyanuric acid was very low (below 40), for a very long time. I just increased it, so this is a new reading)

What should I do? Is it safe to assume that running boost (pretty much 24 hours or more) satlwater filtration is not going to cut it at this point?

I have a chemical that the pool store gave to me, and I'm not sure what the chemical is or what it is used for: GLB Stain Control - Sequa-Sol?

Thank you in advance!!

 

[Abigail K]

Welcome to TFP!

Replies in red.

4-Here are our current levels: How are you testing your water?
ch- almost non-existent (was approx 1.5 about 5 days ago) I assume this is the chlorine level? We use the acronym "CL" to prevent confusion with calcium hardness level. Also, chlorine is consumable - you need to add it daily.
ph- 7.2
total Alk- 150~160
water hardness- 70
cyanuric acid 90~100 (The cyanuric acid was very low (below 40), for a very long time. I just increased it, so this is a new reading)
Have you added salt? If so, do you know how much you have added and/or do you have a salt level reading?

What should I do? Is it safe to assume that running boost (pretty much 24 hours or more) saltwater filtration is not going to cut it at this point? With a green pool, no. You will need to SLAM your pool. How new is the pool?

I have a chemical that the pool store gave to me, and I'm not sure what the chemical is or what it is used for: GLB Stain Control - Sequa-Sol? The MSDS lists it as a proprietary mixture. With the TFPC method, you would not need this.

Thank you in advance!!

I would recommend you read Pool School, especially ABCs of pool water chemistry.
Also, could you please add the details about your pool to your signature as described in this post?

 

[gingern]

Thank you so much for responding. Things have improved, but I still have questions.
My responses are in green.

4-Here are our current levels: How are you testing your water? Hth 6-way test kit (not strips).
ch- almost non-existent (was approx 1.5 about 5 days ago) I assume this is the chlorine level? We use the acronym "CL" to prevent confusion with calcium hardness level. Also, chlorine is consumable - you need to add it daily. Sorry, yes it is chlorine "CL". Since I have a saltwater system, I have heard conflicting ideas... some say chlorine is rarely needed, and you should use a "boost" (saltwater filtration) cycle instead. Others say a combination of saltwater filtration and a little chlorine is needed for good levels.
ph- 7.2
total Alk- 150~160 I'm still curious about this level, I think it might be high... do you agree? :fish:
water hardness- 70 I'm concerned about this also... is it too low? :fish:
cyanuric acid 90~100 (The cyanuric acid was very low (below 40), for a very long time. I just increased it, so this is a new reading)
Have you added salt? If so, do you know how much you have added and/or do you have a salt level reading? Salt was added in the very beginning... according to the pool store it's level is good (about 3,200 ppm), also my saltwater filtration system reads the salt level as good.

What should I do? Is it safe to assume that running boost (pretty much 24 hours or more) saltwater filtration is not going to cut it at this point? With a green pool, no. You will need to SLAM your pool. How new is the pool? Coincidentally, I ran the "boost" cycle for over 48 hours, and it raised the level of the chlorine to between 1.5 ~ 2. We have a much better handle on the leaves as well, as the wind has died down, and we have been good about keeping the cover on the pool.The green is all gone, but the water is still a little foggy.

I have a chemical that the pool store gave to me, and I'm not sure what the chemical is or what it is used for: GLB Stain Control - Sequa-Sol? The MSDS lists it as a proprietary mixture. With the TFPC method, you would not need this.Ah ha! Precisely why I'd rather come here for help, that those rediculous pool stores. I doubt you will try to sell me anything I don't need.

Once again, thank you for you help. Do you think I'm on the way to recovery, even though the water is a little foggy, and the levels next to the :fish:?

 

[Casey]

You should not be BOOSTING your SWG to clear a cloudy pool. You need to SLAM the pool. Boosting is like feeding a beast crumbs and SLAM'ing is over feeding said beast at once.

You need a reliable test kit like the TF100. You can order from the link in my signature.

I would also encourage you to read:
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Chlorine CYA Chart

Then:
Defeating Algae
Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
SLAMing Your Pool
Overnight FC Loss Test
PoolMath

 

[ranger_ric]

You definitely will need to heed ALL of the advice above. I can personally document the need to remove ALL of the organics (dead oak leaves etc.) Use your pool rake to get them. If you dont get them out of your pool you will have to pour enough bleach to eat them up. 20-30min of raking will save 1-2 weeks of slamming. (I can vouch for this from personal experience, except they were elm leaves.... Good Luck and you will love your sparkliciuos pool by following the TFP method.