Pool Filled Need Help

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TrustJesus

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Jul 17, 2014
51
Northern Minnesota
I just got my AGP filled. I am trying to follow the "Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools" info on this site. In step 3 it says to add CYA and get the level up to 40ppm. Step three says to dissolve the solid CYA before putting it into the pool. I have solid CYA that I bought at Wal-mart. I am adding the CYA to 5 gallon buckets a little at a time.

My question is if I need to make sure all of the granules are dissolved before adding the bucket of water back into the pool?
 
You should put the CYA into a sock and hang it in the pool.
 
Casey said:
You should put the CYA into a sock and hang it in the pool.
Click to expand...

Did the sock thing and it worked GREAT! It's all gone for now. I plan to test in about a week and keep an eye on the FC. I did an FC test and it looked like it came back around 4 maybe 4.5. I'm using the 6 way test from wal-mart. PH was 7.2.

I also bought HTH algae guard 3x concentrate. Says it prevents algae. Is this something I need to put in my pool or will the FC do it's job if I keep the levels good?
 
You do not need the algae guard. Maintain your parameters like we've recommended and you will not get algae. I error towards the high side on my chlorine to avoid trouble. I never know when the kids are going to have 3-4 extra people over, so I stay ahead of the game.

Just for reference what was your total alkalinity?
 
jcp said:
You do not need the algae guard. Maintain your parameters like we've recommended and you will not get algae. I error towards the high side on my chlorine to avoid trouble. I never know when the kids are going to have 3-4 extra people over, so I stay ahead of the game.

Just for reference what was your total alkalinity?
Click to expand...

I did not test for alkalinity. I was going to but then the test said I needed to check the color with a color table (or number table) on one of their other products (which I didn't have). Any idea/advice on that one?

I have a few other questions:
1. My water temp right now is 60deg. Air temp now is 70 deg. Low tonight is 55 deg. Is it recommended to run the pump all night for this first night? I have been running it all day since about 2pm while adding chems and testing. We covered the pool with the cover which came with the unit if that matters.
2. When you say you "error towards the high side on your chlorine" what is your "high side" number? Isn't anything over 4ppm unsafe?
3. When is it best to test FC...morning, afternoon, evening (if all there times are available to test)?

I think that is it for now. Thanks everyone for your help.
 

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Your "number" will correspond to the amount of CYA targeted. (Hopefully you used pool math to determine how much to put in based on your pool size.) it would be a good idea to read Pool School and the ABC's of water chemistry to understand the relationship of the variables used.
 
jcp said:
Did you get test strips? The Walmart HTH test kit I was talking about and the one recommended in the seasonal pool guide does total alkalinity and is a "drops" style.
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No, I did not get the test strips but the 6 way test kit with the drops. I thought I read (or heard) that the strips were no accurate. Maybe I'll get the strips as well.

- - - Updated - - -

PAGirl said:
Your "number" will correspond to the amount of CYA targeted. (Hopefully you used pool math to determine how much to put in based on your pool size.) it would be a good idea to read Pool School and the ABC's of water chemistry to understand the relationship of the variables used.
Click to expand...

Yes I used the pool math calculations page to put in the recommended amount of chems. I also have been reading A LOT of info on this sight. This is all VERY new to me and the learning curve is pretty steep since I knew NOTHING about this a week ago.
 
TrustJesus said:
No, I did not get the test strips but the 6 way test kit with the drops. I thought I read (or heard) that the strips were no accurate. Maybe I'll get the strips as well.

- - - Updated - - -



Yes I used the pool math calculations page to put in the recommended amount of chems. I also have been reading A LOT of info on this sight. This is all VERY new to me and the learning curve is pretty steep since I knew NOTHING about this a week ago.
Click to expand...

No do not get test strips. You confused me into thinking you got test strips when you said you could not do the total alkalinity test with what you have. You should have what you need to check it. But take your time, it's at the bottom of your priorities pool care wise right now.
 
jcp said:
No do not get test strips. You confused me into thinking you got test strips when you said you could not do the total alkalinity test with what you have. You should have what you need to check it. But take your time, it's at the bottom of your priorities pool care wise right now.
Click to expand...

JCP...what do you mean by "high side" when referring to the FC in pool? I took a test this morning and PH was 7.2 and FC was between 4 and 5. Is that swimable?
 
TrustJesus said:
JCP...what do you mean by "high side" when referring to the FC in pool? I took a test this morning and PH was 7.2 and FC was between 4 and 5. Is that swimable?
Click to expand...
The "safe" FC level is entirely dependent on the CYA level. A pool with no stabilizer -CYA - and 5 FC would probably dry your skin and bleach your swimsuit. A pool with 100 CYA and 5 FC could develop algae. So you go by the chart: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock.

Minimum is the level below which the FC should never drop. Target is where you try to be when you add chlorine. The key is testing it yourself consistently. If you have 40 CYA and minimum is 3 and target is 5, and you discover you drop to 2 every day, you aim for 6 instead. It's trial-and-error learning your pool's personality. You just want to add enough to stay above minimum until you test and add again. It will take a week or two to learn it. Don't get so anxious over it. It will come.

When he says "high side", he means a couple ppm higher than normal. As long as you're above minimum and below shock level, you're good to go. If you set up Suggested Goal Levels at the very bottom of poolmath and enter all your test results, it will fill in the suggested levels for you.
 
Richard320 said:
The "safe" FC level is entirely dependent on the CYA level. A pool with no stabilizer -CYA - and 5 FC would probably dry your skin and bleach your swimsuit. A pool with 100 CYA and 5 FC could develop algae. So you go by the chart: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock.

Minimum is the level below which the FC should never drop. Target is where you try to be when you add chlorine. The key is testing it yourself consistently. If you have 40 CYA and minimum is 3 and target is 5, and you discover you drop to 2 every day, you aim for 6 instead. It's trial-and-error learning your pool's personality. You just want to add enough to stay above minimum until you test and add again. It will take a week or two to learn it. Don't get so anxious over it. It will come.

When he says "high side", he means a couple ppm higher than normal. As long as you're above minimum and below shock level, you're good to go. If you set up Suggested Goal Levels at the very bottom of poolmath and enter all your test results, it will fill in the suggested levels for you.
Click to expand...

Yes, I think I'm starting to get an understanding as I shift through older posts, articles, etc. I do not know my CYA yet because the fill was yesterday and I just added the CYA yesterday. I thought I was supposed to wait a week before testing my CYA levels. I added solid CYA (in sock) according to pool math. I also added bleach according to pool math.
 
TrustJesus said:
Yes, I think I'm starting to get an understanding as I shift through older posts, articles, etc. I do not know my CYA yet because the fill was yesterday and I just added the CYA yesterday. I thought I was supposed to wait a week before testing my CYA levels. I added solid CYA (in sock) according to pool math. I also added bleach according to pool math.
Click to expand...
You know some of the CYA is dissolved already, so if 1/4 of it is in circulation, your CYA is 10, and 4 to 5 FC is fine for swimming.
 
Richard320 said:
The "safe" FC level is entirely dependent on the CYA level. A pool with no stabilizer -CYA - and 5 FC would probably dry your skin and bleach your swimsuit. A pool with 100 CYA and 5 FC could develop algae. So you go by the chart: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock.

Minimum is the level below which the FC should never drop. Target is where you try to be when you add chlorine. The key is testing it yourself consistently. If you have 40 CYA and minimum is 3 and target is 5, and you discover you drop to 2 every day, you aim for 6 instead. It's trial-and-error learning your pool's personality. You just want to add enough to stay above minimum until you test and add again. It will take a week or two to learn it. Don't get so anxious over it. It will come.

When he says "high side", he means a couple ppm higher than normal. As long as you're above minimum and below shock level, you're good to go. If you set up Suggested Goal Levels at the very bottom of poolmath and enter all your test results, it will fill in the suggested levels for you.
Click to expand...


It is as Richard said. I found more times than I wanted that I was at or a little below my minimum target; be it extra kids, extra sunny, storm blows a bunch of debris in the pool whatever. So I decided to run a couple ppm over the ideal target all the time. The exact numbers won't matter cause my setup is different than yours (SWCG and higher CYA). I just prefer to run a bit higher than necessary on the chlorine; rather than deal with the results of running a bit low. I said I error on the high side, but I actually purposely run a little high.
 

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