Help!! Pool is green and my numbers are out of control!!

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Kfrey

Kfrey

0
Jul 18, 2014
27
Ocean View , DE
FC 0
TC 9.1
CC 9.1
pH 7.0
TA 0
Hard 230
CYA 5ppm
Copper 0
iron 0

Pool went blue to green over night! I've seen worse so I super chlorinated... No good. Shocked again next night and did Hth green to blue. It would look clear in morning and then get green as day goes on... Took water to pool store and results are listed. They told me to hold off on shocking and raise TA... Continue to run pump and brush and stir water... Didn't want me to add CYA for a few days.

I just ordered Taylor fas dpd test kit. After reading posts, I am thinking I should get liquid chlorine and start SLAMing... What do you think? Why did pool store say to stop super chlorinating? HELP!
 
Welcome to TFP!

I don't think much of your pool store advice to lay off the chlorine. Or their test results. I really doubt your TA is 0 and hardness is 230ppm, or that they can measure CYA to 5ppm.

How do you normally chlorinate the pool? What have you been using to shock?

Is the water cloudy green or clear green?
 
Welcome to TFP!

It would help a huge amount if you had your own test kit. Pool store results have a history is problems. Some stores are alright, others are way off, and it is difficult to know what you are getting. There are also several adjustments to the chemistry that require testing and then further adjustment, which is tricky to do running back and forth to the store. I recommend either the TF100 or the K-2006. Both include the FAS-DPD chlorine test, which is crucial for reliable FC and CC results.

The first step is indeed to get TA and PH back into the normal range. I recommend raising TA to 50, then check both PH and TA and see where you are, and then adjust from there.

Depending on how much you trust that CYA reading, CYA is one of the most common tests to get wrong, you should raise CYA. I would aim for a CYA of 30 for the moment.

I don't recommend using Green to Blue. Like many of the specialty products, it can cause more problems than it solves.

Also, add at least a little chlorine today, otherwise things are likely to get completely out of hand.

And finally, what are you using for chlorine?
 
Welcome to TFP!

Did you order a full K-2006 or TF-100? You will need to do your own testing of everything, not just FC/CC, though you are on the right track. I find the results you got plenty suspect (all pool store tests are suspect at best) but if they are true then you have a lot of SLAMming to do.

If you haven't yet, please do some reading in Pool School. This will help you understand the advice you will get here. There is much more to it than just "use liquid chlorine instead of powdered shock." Best place to start is right here: ABC's of Pool and Water Chemistry

Taking care of your pool the TFPC way seems very intimidating at first, but quickly becomes a much simpler, clearer, and more cost effective way to maintain a pool.
 
Thanks for the welcome!
I use Hth 3" tri chlor pucks in a inline chlorinator. Hth cal hypo for shock.... I was away for awhile So chlorine was neglected and we have been replacing water due to leak... I guess my Cya levels were low to start with this spring and it continued to fall as water was constantly added.

I am waiting on the Taylor k2600 to get here so I have to rely on pool store for any readings. My husband got frustrated and added baking soda to raise TA and 1.5 lbs of ProTeam UV Shield (stabilizer) 24 hours ago.

Woke up to cloudy light green pool.

Do you think my FC, CC and TC are not accurate?

I'm just wondering what to do first?????
 
Welcome to the forum :wave:

You ordered the kit and that was the first thing to do so you are ahead of the curve. Here are some videos on some of the tests - - > https://www.youtube.com/user/tf100testkit?feature=results_main

Do you have an idea of how fast you're losing water, inches per week, day ??

I agree about your numbers and that they don't look believable. Adding some chlorine (liquid bleach) until you get your kit is the best advise. How much would depend on your pools size.
The problem with the CYA is usually it can't be tested down to that level so then it's a matter of someone not entering or writing it down right, maybe it was 50 ?? Or they just didn't know what they were doing. Where have you been at on your recent tests ??
If you really were that low you can use the tablets as you need the CYA but the problem is if you do start your own testing and using the method here of maintaining your pool you won't want to be using those tablets. They add CYA and unless you don't fix the leak the CYA is cumulative and just keeps building as you toss in tablet after tablet for the FC as you need to constantly replenish the chlorine.
Any idea where or what is leaking ??

Once you have your kit you will need to SLAM (shock) the pool to get it sparkly blue. Good thing is if you follow the procedure there isn't a need to do it again. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

Can you post a picture of the water so we can get an idea ??
 
pool.jpg

Here is a picture.

We repaired the biggest hole so it seems the water loss problem is fixed. The only water loss now is due to wasting and back washing.


Also, my own calculation and the Pool store calculated pool volume at 8500 gal. The pool calculator here says 9300 gal... Im confused?
 
Looks like you have some debris on the bottom. You will help yourself along to vacuum or brush to help the filter get that out of the pool.

Any chance your water has iron in it? I know the test said not, but the fact that your water is changing color makes me wonder.
 

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If there is "stuff" on the bottom using the leaf rake to get most of it is a good idea and then vacuum the small stuff.
If you purchase some liquid bleach or liquid pool shock you could add 2-3 qts a day to get you close to shock level. At least keep it from getting worse.
It would make a difference on if you get Walmart Great Value or Clorox that is usually around 6% for a gallon jug or the "concentrated" which is usually 8% in a smaller jug. If you get pool shock that can be up to 12.5%
If you get bleach the "concentrated" is fine but DO NOT get scented, splashless or anything fancy. Have had people report foaming and other problems with them.
If you had a CYA of 20 then to SLAM (shock) the pool you'd want to bring it up to and hold it at 10ppm FC. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
Once you have your kit and we get a solid reading on your CYA you can start your SLAM. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
 
This picture was taken right after I finished vacuuming. the liner is bleached out in spots making it look like debris is in the bottom. I'm pretty sure there is no iron in my water...it is town water and my house is relatively new. So I have a Bjs right around the corner and I know they carry the liquid pool shock so I will get that and add 2-3 qts a day and try to stay calm till the test kit gets here...

Thank you all for your speedy responses! I am so grateful I can get solid, free advice from here! I just feel like all the pool stores around here want to take my money...I guess they would all go out of business if more people followed TFP!:)
 
The 2-3 is a guesstimate and I'd rather be a little more accurate once you buy the liquid pool shock (bleach) and post it's strength. I just don't want you to put too much in.

Any idea what and or how the liner was damaged ??
 
Bleach or liquid pool shock, same thing. It's still best if you let us know the strength so we can figure out what would be a reasonable amount to add to your pool.
 
Ok so I got 8.25% bleach.... Let me give you an update.

After adding baking soda to get TA up, Stabilizer , and 3 - 3" tri chlor pucks to inline feeder , oh and about a gallon of 8.25% bleach...these are my readings with my test strips. I know they are not reliable but it's what I have till the Taylor k2600 gets here ( hopefully tomorrow)...

FC: >10 ppm
TC: > 10ppm
TA: 80-120ppm
pH: 6.8-7.2
Hardness: 100-240
CYA: 50-100
I know these results have too much range but it gives me some idea considering what they looked like 5 days ago... Pool seems to be less green and clearer. Hardly any sediment accumulated in bottom over night.. Just wondering what I should do in next 24 hrs till test kit gets here... Also, it's been cloudy for the last few days so this may have helped with algae growth ... Here is the latest picimage.jpgimage.jpg. And this was a few days ago image.jpg
 
Not too bad! Seen much worse at least so this should clear up pretty quick... I would stop using pucks and go strictly with liquid chlorine until you know you're real CYA level. It's probably pretty high already and the more pucks you add the higher it will go making it harder to SLAM! Your pH is a bit low but probably not accurate as you're currently shocking. Add another gallon of liquid chlorine tonight and post test results when you get your kit.
 
Sminor said:
Not too bad! Seen much worse at least so this should clear up pretty quick... I would stop using pucks and go strictly with liquid chlorine until you know you're real CYA level. It's probably pretty high already and the more pucks you add the higher it will go making it harder to SLAM! Your pH is a bit low but probably not accurate as you're currently shocking. Add another gallon of liquid chlorine tonight and post test results when you get your kit.
Click to expand...

Thanks sminor! I will turn off inline chlorinator and add liquid chlorine tonight and report in the morning!
 
Please take the tablets out of the inline chlorinator. If you are 50 - 100 in CYA you're going to need to dump water and refill to lower that number and the longer the tablets are in there the higher that CYA number is going to go and the more water you will have to dump and replace.

- - - Updated - - -

How did you add the green to blue, in front of the return ??
 

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