Best heater in 150-200k btu range for saltwater????

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gqjeff

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LifeTime Supporter
Jul 19, 2010
206
IL
So our Hayward 150FDN made it almost 4 yrs to the day before it started leaking the other day. Opened it up and it's def seen better days. Rusted all over and leaking in multiple spots. I maintain the chemicals and quality of the pool second to non. Also help 2 other people with the salt water pools. Neither of them have heater problems either. 1 has a 4 yr old unit also and another has 1 going on 8 yrs. please tell me some better brands as I would have though an $1800 heater would def last longer. Looking for internals more suited for salt.

Thanks in advance, Jeff
 
So do these two other people have Haywards as well? Can you list what your water chemistry is currently at, PH, CYA, CH, etc. Since you are in IL, do you move the heater indoors during the winter or cover it up?
 
Yes both others are Hayward's also. I do cover it up over the winter after draining it but I leave it outside.

Ph 7.6-7.8
Salinity 3100
Alk 70
Chlorine 3-5
Ca can't rem off top of head
Borates 30-50
Cya 70-80

I have kept saltwater reef
Tanks for 23 years so water chemistry has never really been a problem.
Pool temp is usually 88-90 and kick it
Up some weekend nights to 94-95
 
A lot of people on the forum recommend Raypak. I just ordered one yesterday as my early 90's teledyne quit working for the last time. They have the option for cupronickel instead of copper, but I went with copper for this one. Got it from poolsupplyworld with free shipping. I'll update when I get it and install it.
 
I would have to blame the leaking on the same thing I have seen over the years with the Hayward FD heaters, bad production of the heat exchangers. I still stand by my assessment of the Raypak/Rheems, that they are probably the best unit on the market today. With the number of them I install a year and very few complaints even after almost 10 years in service, it's a solid unit.

As for the cupro nickle, I have not seen any difference in the regular copper vs cupro nickle if you keep your waters chemistry in line where it's suppose to be. Even if you didn't keep the chemicals right, you can still have am issue with the cupro nickle but it would show up later rather than sooner.

- - - Updated - - -

zimm said:
A lot of people on the forum recommend Raypak. I just ordered one yesterday as my early 90's teledyne quit working for the last time. They have the option for cupronicker instead of copper, but I went with copper for this one. Got it from poolsupplyworld with free shipping. I'll update when I get it and install it.
Click to expand...

You should have a very easy time installing this as the two units are almost identical. Lots of times I have been able to cut the pipes on the old coming out of the header and then the new one I can slide it over far enough that the old pipes glue right into the new unions. Then run the electrical and hook up ground wire. I did one install like this in 20 minutes and the homeowner thought I should give him a discount. LOL
 
I think they comes with CPVC union fittings that connect to the heater (that is where the o-rings would be) and you will need to use primer and solvent to connect the pipe to those fittings.
 

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Raypak advertises the CuproNickel being "...best suited for pools with harsh water chemistry like salt water pools" the price difference on the copper heat exchanger and CuproNickel is only $100 or so I would splurge for the CuproNickel heat exchanger if you have a Salt pool. The main thing you want to do is keep you water chemistry in check as all of the manufacture's warranties state that if your water chemistry is way out of whack then the warranty is void, so typically when they come out to do warranty work the first they will do is test your water.
 
For all the years I've been installing and repairing gas pool heaters, I still believe that the cupro nickle is a waste of money no matter how much it costs. I see absolutely no reason why it's needed for pools that use a salt chlorinator. But, to each his own.
 
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