I didn't run my pump for one day and the CH dropped below 1. Now I have a cloudy green pool. I shocked as soon as I recognized the problem but it's been 3 days of solid pumping and sweeping with high CH levels. Is there a algae chem that I should try or just keep shocking. All levels are nominal except CH being high.
Now I have a cloudy green pool
- Thread starter Mr. Baggins
- Start date
Re: Does adding CYA make water cloudy?
I give up. Impatient as I am, I am draining off some and refilling. Hopefully that will do the trick
I give up. Impatient as I am, I am draining off some and refilling. Hopefully that will do the trick
Draining may help temporarily but not permanently.
The root cause of your issue is not enough chlorine in your pool.
The root cause of your issue is not enough chlorine in your pool.
Thanks. I juiced it up good a few days ago and it still remained green. The CH got low for that one day and all heck broke loose. Anyway it is refilling now from between 1/2 AND 2/3. CH still reads high so far.
It appears to be pollen and I can see what appears to be pollen dust on top of the water. We mowed the grass a couple times since all this started and I think that may have contributed a bit.
First of all, it's helpful to know what your pool and equipment are, size, above ground or in ground, vinyl or plaster, pump size (HP) and type of
filter (sand, cartridge, earth). You can edit your signature to put that information in. Look at some of the other posters to get an idea. We don't
know what to tell you to do without water test results. We need to know your free chlorine, combined chlorine, total chlorine, CYA (cyanuric
acid), TA (total alkalinity), pH, calcium hardness (for in ground plaster pool). Without knowing what you have there is no way of knowing what to
do. Do you have any way of testing your water and posting the results?
filter (sand, cartridge, earth). You can edit your signature to put that information in. Look at some of the other posters to get an idea. We don't
know what to tell you to do without water test results. We need to know your free chlorine, combined chlorine, total chlorine, CYA (cyanuric
acid), TA (total alkalinity), pH, calcium hardness (for in ground plaster pool). Without knowing what you have there is no way of knowing what to
do. Do you have any way of testing your water and posting the results?
I only have the dip strip HTH 6 way tester so results are subjective I guess.
Free chlorine - approx 15
PH - 7.8
TA - approx 120
CYA - approx 60
It appears to be quite a bit clearer now since I replaced about 30% of water and swept/vac'd. I pumped up the CH quite a bit and swapped filters a few times today. I can only assume the pucks I floated a while back upset the balance somehow. My CYA read good by the dip strips and all other levels were nominal as well.
We'll see tomorrow if things clear up or not. The pump has been running solid for days.
Free chlorine - approx 15
PH - 7.8
TA - approx 120
CYA - approx 60
It appears to be quite a bit clearer now since I replaced about 30% of water and swept/vac'd. I pumped up the CH quite a bit and swapped filters a few times today. I can only assume the pucks I floated a while back upset the balance somehow. My CYA read good by the dip strips and all other levels were nominal as well.
We'll see tomorrow if things clear up or not. The pump has been running solid for days.
Don't float any more pucks. Your CYA is a little over the recommended high. If you still have green, you still have algae. You need to keep your chlorine at shock level (17) until you lose less than .5 ppm overnight. Use liquid chlorine or bleach (unscented, unthickened, 5.25 or 6%) to keep
it at about 17 and check it at night and in the morning. If you are losing more than 1 ppm overnight something is still in there. Be patient and it will clear.
Some of the other more experienced members will come along and guide you by tomorrow. To keep things under control once we have this cleared up you will need a good test kit. On the Homepage on the left side under "links", go to "Trouble Free Testkits". They are sold by a member
here and used by many on this forum. It's a great kit, a good price (for such an extensive kit), and used by many here. I bought one before my pool was installed. It will allow you to know what's going on with your pool so you can maintain it and enjoy in it, instead of always trying to fix it.
Good Luck and welcome to Trouble Free Pool.
it at about 17 and check it at night and in the morning. If you are losing more than 1 ppm overnight something is still in there. Be patient and it will clear.
Some of the other more experienced members will come along and guide you by tomorrow. To keep things under control once we have this cleared up you will need a good test kit. On the Homepage on the left side under "links", go to "Trouble Free Testkits". They are sold by a member
here and used by many on this forum. It's a great kit, a good price (for such an extensive kit), and used by many here. I bought one before my pool was installed. It will allow you to know what's going on with your pool so you can maintain it and enjoy in it, instead of always trying to fix it.
Good Luck and welcome to Trouble Free Pool.
I forgot to mention The Pool Calculator. It's also under the "Links". It's written by a member here and makes adding chemicals a breeze. Go to the
bottom of the page and enter your pool size to find the gallon volume of your pool. Enter your gallons at the top of the table and your current
(now) and target (goal) levels and it tells you how much of whatever to put in. At the bottom of the table it shows recommended FC levels.
bottom of the page and enter your pool size to find the gallon volume of your pool. Enter your gallons at the top of the table and your current
(now) and target (goal) levels and it tells you how much of whatever to put in. At the bottom of the table it shows recommended FC levels.
Thanks skinman. I am keeping the CH at 15-18 and brushing the victims from the bottom as they collect. It is clearing up but taking a while. My brother ordered the test kit from this board and is testing and BBBing away in NC. I should get one on the way soon but awaiting some contract info if you know what I mean. Food before pool. 
Thanks again
Bill
Thanks again
Bill
Been blasting it with CH every night and brushing/vac'ing along the way. Looks like I'm one day from swimming again. Even the girls said it looked good enough for them to get in. Guess I'll keep my CH a bit higher and super chlor when I may miss a day or so.
MB,
Just for clarification, most of us use CH as "Calcium Hardness". Chlorine is abreviated several ways but "Cl" seems to stick the most.
Secondly "super chlor" seemed to be an SWG reference....probably a much better idea to just use bleach if you need to really boost your Cl.
Just for clarification, most of us use CH as "Calcium Hardness". Chlorine is abreviated several ways but "Cl" seems to stick the most.
Secondly "super chlor" seemed to be an SWG reference....probably a much better idea to just use bleach if you need to really boost your Cl.
- Apr 27, 2008
- 48
Hey mr. baggins, 
Do you have cloudy water on the deep end of the pool?
Turn the pool off at night, and turn it on in the morning before leaving to go anywhere if you
have to. This help lower any floculant to the bottom.
Vac any dead algae up since the pool water has settled.
Do you have cloudy water on the deep end of the pool?
Turn the pool off at night, and turn it on in the morning before leaving to go anywhere if you
have to. This help lower any floculant to the bottom.
Vac any dead algae up since the pool water has settled.
Thanks for the clarification duraleigh
No deep end on my pool other than the slight 1.5" grade it sits on.
My pool is clear
:-D I just checked it after work and I can see clearly right to the bottom. Thanks for the assistance and it's time to go swimming.
No deep end on my pool other than the slight 1.5" grade it sits on.
My pool is clear
:-D I just checked it after work and I can see clearly right to the bottom. Thanks for the assistance and it's time to go swimming.