New TF test kit initial reading and questions

[txborn]

I suspected hi TC based on my cheap PB supplied tester. Basic test with Dave's kit after 50% dilution was a bit over 20ppm. Tried the FAS/DPD and show no CC. pH was 6.8 but have been fighting high pH (> eight) and high T/A (180) with small doses of acid for weeks. Other test kit shows pH to be around 7 but it does climb if I don't add acid occasionally.

Had salt cell at 50% but PB keeps adding 2 pucks to skimmer weekly (as part of my free 3 month service). I removed them and will set cell to 0% till it comes down.

At this point, should I hold off doing a CH, TA and CYA test till the level comes down?

Pool is crystal clear, but with that much FC, I'm thinking it should!

Thanks in advance!

 

[duraleigh]

Txborn,

Couple of questions for you b4 I try to answer yours. The 50% dilution has me a little puzzled...did you get that 20ppm TC using the Daily (OTO) test block? Any chlorine test over 5 should be done with the FAS/DPD drop test where you use the powder. I know you must've used the FAS/DPD to test fdor CC's but the dilution is confusing me.

Secondly, you'll have little use for the pucks. You are wise to take them out. See if he'll give you something you can use.

Lastly, go ahead with your other tests. They should be accurate and it would be good to see all your results posted together.

i.e.

pH - x.x
FC - x.x
CC - x.x
TC - x.x
CH - xxx
Alk - xxx
CYA - xx

I would trust that little Taylor block for good pH readings.....I find it very accurate.

As a thought to everyone recommending the dilution method to do OTO chlorine tests over 5ppm.......Try that before you encourage others to use it.

I have only done it twice and both times found it to be wildly innaccurate. At best, I would suggest it's only good plus or minus 25%. Even worse if you dilute further than 50-50. Again, that's my anecdotal results....others may have had better success. I'd be interested in your comments if you are able to get repeatable results within a useable range.

 

[txborn]

Hi Dave, I used the test blocks for initial TC reading. Diluted the TC side with distilled water 50% to get the 20ppm. Couldn't get the drops to work for me out of the R871 dropper so just added till clear, then tested for CC, which was 0. Sorry for the confusion!

I don't know why they keep adding pucks. My cell is doing a nice job of maintaining readings well over 3ppm (based on old tester that only went to 3ppm Leslies showed it around 5ppm in the past.

I'll go ahead and post all tests.

Mark

 

[JasonLion]

The builder might be trying to get your CYA level up with the pucks. When first starting up a plaster pool the PH tends to rise and you need CYA and chlorine. Pucks help with all three of those things, so they can be convenient in that situation. When you get a full set of numbers you will be able to tell if the pucks are helping or not.

 

[duraleigh]

Gotcha, now, Mark. I'll get those new tips out to you right away....that'll make your life easier and, again, my apologies for my error. Meanwhile, if you have an eye dropper somewhere in the house, you can remove the tip from the R-0871 bottle (just hold the bottle firmly in one hand and bend the tip over with your thumb...it should pop out)and use the eyedropper to count good drops. The bottle should reseal fine without the tip (although I'd store it upright to be safe) and when the new tip comes, it'll pop right in.

 

[txborn]

Ok, here we go. Dave, I just used that 4" dropper you had in the kit and rinsed very well between reagents. That worked great. What's that dropper for?

pH - 6.8
FC - 12
CC - 0
TC - 12
CH - 300
Alk - 70
CYA - 45

Jason, it seems like a ritual every Monday with this guy - adds 2 to 4 pucks and 3/4 gallon of acid. I'm thinking the low pH is because he added the acid Monday and I was already working the T/A down prior to that.

 

[duraleigh]

Well, that little pipette is for a test that we quite haven't yet worked out the methodology. I just put it in there so you would have the dropper if we get the test figured out.....It's not in anyway essential to your pool water.

I like your numbers. pH is, of course, a little low but it'll come right up in that new pool as will the Alk.

Most SWG's like a little more CYA (around 60-80) but check with the SWG manufacturer for his standards. That'll take a lot of pucks and I still don't think you should use them unless you chose to chlorinate entirely with them for a pretty good while. I think you'd be better off adding the CYA seperately and use the SWG but both methods can work.

CH is perfect.

I'd let the chlorine drift down on it's own 'til you get to about 4-6ppm and keep it there either with the pucks (which will help your acid usage) or the SWG.....but not both.

 

[txborn]

Thanks Dave. That pipette will do till you get the new tips. So the pH and T/A should go up on their own based on what you said.

Goldline wants CYA of around 80. I do have some CYA because Leslies tests showed about that same amount I just measured. Haven't added any yet. Will probably do so, using bleachcalc program.

I don't think I will use the pucks for now. I'll see if the SWCG can produce enough to sustain.

BTW, salt is at 3770. That jives with 3 other tests with the digital meter from various sources.

 

[JasonLion]

When adding CYA you should add perhaps half of what you calculate you need, let it disolve for a full week, and then retest and see where you are. CYA disolves very slowly and it is difficult to lower, so it is always better to err on the low side. You can add CYA to the skimmer as long as you don't backwash for at least a week. Many people here prefer to put it in a sock and hang the sock in front of a return.

 

[txborn]

Thanks Jason, I will do the sock thing and use half as much. As I add water to compensate for evaporation, the salt level should come down too.