1st Test Results w Taylor k2006

[Hoochie]

After reading a number of posts and recommendations I came to the conclusion that setting my TA first would be a good place to start.

Before joining TFP I would have my water tested at the pool store. They use a new system that they fill a little plastic disc and then it spins for a bit and the computer spits out your readings and recommended corrections.

I know my CH is 240 ish and my CYA is 70 they haven't changed much and the k2006 (ya I bit the bullet and bought one from the CAN distributor), gave me similar results (CYA). Did not test the CH.

FRIDAY - Readings
FC 7.5 (I've actually shut off the SWG until it comes down).
PH 8.0
TA 140
CH 240
CYA 70
Don't use borates (not yet).

So I hit the pool with about 4L of MA using PoolMath.

TODAY - Readings
FC 7.5
PH 7.2
TA 125
CYA 70

I am presently aerating the pool (using the homemade version I found here on TFP - http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/7457-My-aerator and will test later this evening to see if the PH rises.

When I hit a PH of 7.8 I'll knock it back down to 7.0 and aerate again.

COUPLE OF QUESTIONS:

1. If my FC is 7.5 will this affect my TA results?
2. Am I right to focus on TA 1st, while watching PH (no lower than 7 aerate to 7.6/7.8 and repeat) and let FC come down to 3 or 4?
3. When applying MA to pool, there seems to be 2 approaches - with the later claimed to be more effective.... thoughts?
   • Add live to pool (pump on, in front of jet)
   • Stop pool pump let currents stop (wait 30 mins) then apply (wait 30 mins), then power pump back on.

Any and all comments welcome as I still have a lot to learn

Thanks

H

 

[jblizzle]

1. No. Only FC greater than 10 affects the pH test.
2. Usually TA is last priority after everything else is in line. There is actually no reason to actively lower it unless you think the pH rise too fast.
3. No one here will ever recommend option 2 as it can damage your pool and the "slug" method is proven as bogus.

 

[Hoochie]

Thanks jblizzle I often worried about having MA drift to the bottom of my pool and just sit there.

My PH has always been a challenge to stabilize.

Should I bother aerating then? and just let the PH rise slowly from 7.2

Thanks
H

 

[jblizzle]

The TA should slowly come down as you keep the pH in range. Aeration just speeds up that process, but there is no hurry.

 

[Hoochie]

PH now at 7.4

Moving nicely.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

"When applying MA to pool, there seems to be 2 approaches - with the later claimed to be more effective.... thoughts?

Add live to pool (pump on, in front of jet)
Stop pool pump let currents stop (wait 30 mins) then apply (wait 30 mins), then power pump back on."

Only one approach, add it full strength or diluted in front of a running return jet.
Not sure what someone would be thinking to recommend adding muriatic acid with the pools pump off AND thinking it would be somehow more effective

 

[Hoochie]

FC 3.5
pH 7.4
TA 120-125
CYA 60
CH 350
Salt 3100

FC - Just turned SWG back on after 5 days OFF. FC was 7.5 now 3.5 Pump runs 24/7 is set a 15%
Q: Should I let this glide to 3 first? POOL MATH says SWG 3 Normal 5-10

pH 7.4 - I'm cool with that as no doubt it will rise. Jets pointed up to break the surface.

TA 125-130 ? Can't seem to drop my TA. Infact it seems to have gone up? We've been getting rain every night (not alot maybe 1/2 inch over past 3 days)
Q: I did a pool store test - they show my TA dropping to 87 with their BioGuard ALEX system. But using the Taylor k2006 I don't get the same results 125-130

CH 350 k2006 gave me this reading - about the same with the ALEX system report.

Based on Pool Math I need to drain about 9000 litres to reduce my CH to 300. Add 900 grams of stabilizer.

Does that make sense?

H

 

[Richard320]

Raise CYA, yes. Drain just to lower CH by 50 - forget it. 350 CH is quite manageable. Your swim season is short enough. It can wait until you drain down to winterize.

The TA test can be affected by static electricity. It makes the drops smaller, so it takes more, and TA appears higher than it is. The cure is to wipe the tip of the R-009 with a damp paper towel between drops.

 

[jblizzle]

A FC of 3ppm is the MINIMUM ... you want to try to keep it up around 4-5ppm at all times.

 

[Hoochie]

Thanks Gang!

SWG back on. Will check tomorrow.

Wipe R-009 paper towel - CHECK. damp check

Cheers!

H

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

With a SWG you want to aim for 70-80 CYA and that would have you targeting 5-6 ppm FC and a minimum of 3. See the SWG table --> http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

That beer looks tempting

 

[Hoochie]

Learned something from Richard320:

1). Touch the tip ore the reagent bottle with a damp paper towel. What a difference in the readings.
2). When dripping - you have to hold the bottle straight up and down (uniform drip). I was cheating and holding the drip bottles on a bit of an angle (eyes going).

REVISED READINGS:
FC 5.0
pH 7.6
TA 90 (FINALLY - bit more to go)
CH 260 (this makes more sense)
CYA 60 (yes - need to bring this up)
SALT 3100

I will work on the CYA and turn my jets down as the pH is just about right.

Thanks Gang,

(Beers on me)

h