Hardibacker Exterior and Cultured Stone

Jul 26, 2008
2
Hi Fellow Members:
I live in Kansas City where we have definite freeze thaw cycles. Based on previous threads in the old BBQ Forum, I went ahead and built out of hardibacker with a porcelian tile top and exterior rated thinset.

i have purchased Cultured Stone Veneer for the front of the bbq island as well as my outdoor bar and fireplace.

I am getting different informtion from various stone contractors. Some say wire mesh, some say wire mesh over felt paper with scratch coat, and some say stick directly onto the hardibacker with Type S premixed mortar. I want longevity of course and will do the extra work if necessary but if sticking directly onto Hardibacker exterior (even though haribacker says it is not rated for exterior projects) with Type S works I would rather go that right.

Need some expert advice to put my mind at ease....thanks all. Glad to see this board alive and well
 
KSU:

The type of cultured stone you use may determine how it needs to be installed?

Here in Texas, we have ordered a product called Tajas Stone. It used to be independant and was owned by a customer of the company my husband works for. PaveStone Company has since bought it out. When talking to the former owner, for our project of putting ledgestone on 3 sides of our island, he said we could install it directly to the hardibacker. He recommended that we also use a bonding agent (available at Lowes or Home Deopt).

I agree. With the investment of building these things, why leave anything to chance. I would follow the advice of whom you bought your cultured stone from, especially if he is in your area. Your weather conditions in KS and the specific make up of the cultured stone could certainly play a part in how it needs to be installed.

Good Luck and post some pics of your build
 
KSU
Use concrete adhesive to prime your HB just before you apply your mud for the stone vernier. You want it to be tacky when you do this.

I'm not in your neck of the woods, but we do see extreme heat and killing frost here in Escondido. My Island is 9 years old and all the stucco is still firmly attached. No scratch coat or wire mesh. Just a single color coat of stucco over the concrete glue.

I don't believe that a lot of masons or stucco professionals have had much experience with HB. So the advice you are getting is erroring on the side of what they know works, not the best method. No offfense to those in the trade.
 
Well, my project is coming along.. I have gone the cultured stone veneer (i.e. concrete that looks like stone) route as well, and currently have the entire island covered in metal lath, and about a quarter of it covered in a scratch coat of type S mortar. It does not seem to be going well.. I am making a big mess and at the end of the day, am really not sure what I'm doing is correct. I am considering just taking the metal lath back off and sticking these things directly to Hardibacker using thinset mortar.

Should have hired a mason. :)
 
Use concrete adhesive to prime your HB just before you apply your mud for the stone vernier. You want it to be tacky when you do this.

I personally think you can do this. Just follow the advice that was given. the wire mesh was a waste of time and money. The concrete adhesive is the key to making it stick to the HB.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.