I have an Intex 48 Intex 18' x 48" Ultra Frame Swimming Pool. 6,423 gal. I am testing with a 3 and 1 test strip and a VUE block. Free chlorine, PH, and alkalinity. I have shocked my pool 3 times. The green water is gone. I have teal cloudy water now. I cant seem to get rid of it. Any information would be great.
Help! I can not clear up pool water
- Thread starter briang
- Start date
svenpup
LifeTime Supporter
hi and welcome! 
In your other post you said:
The problem is that you haven't killed the algae. Around here, rather than shock, we say you need to :lookhere: S.L.A.M (Shock Level And Maintain).
This means rather than add some shock and hope it gets it all, you need to keep FC at shock level by repeated testing and additions of bleach/liquid chlorine until the algae is completely eradicated.
The level of FC you need is related to the amount of CYA, so you need to be able to test CYA.
Also, to SLAM you typically need to accurately measure FC levels above 10ppm, so you also need an FAS/DPD chlorine test. This is why we suggest getting one of the :lookhere: recommended test kits.
Recommended reading:
:lookhere: What is TFPC?
:lookhere: ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
:lookhere: Recommended Pool Chemicals
:lookhere: Basic Pool Care Schedule
:lookhere: How to Chlorinate Your Pool
:lookhere: Chlorine CYA Chart
:lookhere: Recommended Levels
:lookhere: SLAMing Your Pool
:lookhere: PoolMath
In your other post you said:
The problem is that you haven't killed the algae. Around here, rather than shock, we say you need to :lookhere: S.L.A.M (Shock Level And Maintain).
This means rather than add some shock and hope it gets it all, you need to keep FC at shock level by repeated testing and additions of bleach/liquid chlorine until the algae is completely eradicated.
The level of FC you need is related to the amount of CYA, so you need to be able to test CYA.
Also, to SLAM you typically need to accurately measure FC levels above 10ppm, so you also need an FAS/DPD chlorine test. This is why we suggest getting one of the :lookhere: recommended test kits.
Recommended reading:
:lookhere: What is TFPC?
:lookhere: ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
:lookhere: Recommended Pool Chemicals
:lookhere: Basic Pool Care Schedule
:lookhere: How to Chlorinate Your Pool
:lookhere: Chlorine CYA Chart
:lookhere: Recommended Levels
:lookhere: SLAMing Your Pool
:lookhere: PoolMath
Sounds real confusing. My neighbor keeps telling me if I put a salt water system on intex pool I don't have to worry anymore. Is this true or do I need to buckle down and learn the tricks of the trade?
Welcome to TFP!
A proper test kit is literally the best investment you can make in managing your pool. It will pay for itself many times over by reducing the $ you will spend on unnecessary chemicals, extending the life of your pool surface and equipment, and help you avoid problems that plague those without a good test kit.
Dittos.svenpup" said:
A proper test kit is literally the best investment you can make in managing your pool. It will pay for itself many times over by reducing the $ you will spend on unnecessary chemicals, extending the life of your pool surface and equipment, and help you avoid problems that plague those without a good test kit.
It really isn't. Once you understand the Chlorine/CYA relationship and become familiar with using the PoolMath tool, you are 80% of the way towards a Trouble Free Pool.briang said:
A salt system system produces chlorine which many people do not realize. As such, you will still need to periodically test the chlorine level and adjust the Salt Water Generator (SWG) as well as test the salt level. The main advantage of a SWG over a manually-chlorinated pool is that you do not need to add chlorine daily, so it is a great alternative if the pool is often left unattended (for example, those who travel out of town during the work week and are home only on the weekends). The downside of a SWG is that you will need to periodically replace the salt cell (usually every 3-5 years) and run the pump more often since the SWG only produces chlorine when the pump is running.briang said:
O.K. I bought the kit. I will have to wait to get it. I hope you guys can walk me through it.
Definitely. You'll find things suddenly become easy and obvious after you run a few tests and make about 20 more forum posts. Really !
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I did order the K-2006. I am guessing I will not see it till the end of next week. Any suggestions on the pool till then? Last night I used the rest of my shock up. Out of frustration I used more than twice what i was supposed to use. However I can almost make out the blue squared at the bottom of the 4' pool.
Here is the VUE Block test kit I have. http://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=pool+test+kit
My Chlorine is off the cart and my PH seems to be about an 8 on the block. Says I should add acid to lower it to 7.2 -7.6. I have a bottle of HTH PH minis?
My Chlorine is off the cart and my PH seems to be about an 8 on the block. Says I should add acid to lower it to 7.2 -7.6. I have a bottle of HTH PH minis?
If you are still waiting on your kit, sometimes they recommend letting the CL level fall below 10 and checking the PH. You could use distilled water to dilute your sample (not tap, as city water might have CL), then check the CL level.
I don't expect my kit till this Thursday. I could cancel my order and look for a pool store that sells it I guess. I diluted the sample and the PH is right where it needs to be according to the sample block 7.6. Ill do some digging and see if I can get the kit today. Thanks for all the help!
As far as I have seen, the kits with the right elements are only sold online. Keep your order! The dilution was meant for the chlorine sample, not the PH, if I wasnt clear.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Or as unpopular as it is you could take a sample to a pool store. They can read the higher level. You just need to remember: "I think I have some of that at home, let me check" when they try to load you up with their recommended chemicals. When I was in "Pool Store" to TFPC" transition and hadn't broke down and purchased a kit and had a shelf of pool store chemicals to use up it saved me. Finally started running out of BioGard this and that and substituted the TFP recommended stuff and it's worked great.
Until the SLAM is done I would forget about the pH like PAGirl said. Above 10ppm it isn't accurate. It's one of those things you adjust BEFORE you start the SLAM or live with until it's over.
You have pH down and after you use it up you can switch over to muratic acid. It's less expensive and works great.
Unless you can find a local source for the K-2006 or a TF-100 and purchase it I wouldn't cancel that order.
You need to make at least two runs a day to the pool store for testing and I would likely go 2-4ppm over your SLAM target as it will keep you from falling as far under it as you likely will testing so infrequently.
Make sure you've got all the "stuff" out you can with a leaf rake and brush and or vacuum the whole thing at least once a day. More if you have the time and strength. If you have a removeable ladder take it out and scrub it paying attention to the bottom of the steps too. If you have a light it will need to be removed and the niche scrubbed too.
Did you read the link on SLAM and do you understand what you are trying to do ?? http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool
Until the SLAM is done I would forget about the pH like PAGirl said. Above 10ppm it isn't accurate. It's one of those things you adjust BEFORE you start the SLAM or live with until it's over.
You have pH down and after you use it up you can switch over to muratic acid. It's less expensive and works great.
Unless you can find a local source for the K-2006 or a TF-100 and purchase it I wouldn't cancel that order.
You need to make at least two runs a day to the pool store for testing and I would likely go 2-4ppm over your SLAM target as it will keep you from falling as far under it as you likely will testing so infrequently.
Make sure you've got all the "stuff" out you can with a leaf rake and brush and or vacuum the whole thing at least once a day. More if you have the time and strength. If you have a removeable ladder take it out and scrub it paying attention to the bottom of the steps too. If you have a light it will need to be removed and the niche scrubbed too.
Did you read the link on SLAM and do you understand what you are trying to do ?? http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The two big things you need to watch are FC and CC. You want CC to drop and stay below .5 and FC to stay at your SLAM target level. That is the important thing about the kit is testing often and bumping up the FC to a strong enough value to kill algae and to MAINTAIN it there until all of it is dead. With infrequent testing you won't do as well on the maintaining but at lest it would be a start.
Need to find out your current CYA level and then see where you're target is. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
Need to find out your current CYA level and then see where you're target is. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
Ok. Went to a pool store. First and last time! CYA level is 20, Free Chlorine 10, PH 7.8 Total Alkalinity is 146, No algae,swamp,slime,ect.. They told me to add .75 lbs of Lo'N Slo. I did not purchase it I had PH down. They did sell me Stabilizer and told me to add 1 lbs. I did not add this yet thinking I should wait for my Chlorine to come down. They said I just need to keep filtering my water cleaning the filters ever 2-3 hours till clear.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Howdy neighbor - Hudson WI
You can add with the chlorine at 10ppm. Did they give you a result for CC ??
If the water is clear and you're not going to have to SLAM (shock) it then you likely want to add some stabilizer to get that CYA closer to 40. (HTH at Walmart or ...)
Put 1lb of the stabilizer in a sock and put it in your skimmer. Knead the sock occasionally to get it dissolved a bit quicker. It can take up to a week for it to show up on a new test so don't bother to test CYA for a week. BUT ... when you add the CYA you need to be in a position to not clean the filters for that week or at lest for a few days or you will end up flushing the CYA right back out.
If you want to run the pump and do more filtering wait on the CYA until you think you can make it a week and just adjust the pH for now.
Then drop the pH down around 7.4 with muratic acid (Menards or ??) or the pH down and sweep the pool. You can never sweep too often and it helps mix.
Why was it the last trip to the pool store ?? Just curious.
You can add with the chlorine at 10ppm. Did they give you a result for CC ??
If the water is clear and you're not going to have to SLAM (shock) it then you likely want to add some stabilizer to get that CYA closer to 40. (HTH at Walmart or ...)
Put 1lb of the stabilizer in a sock and put it in your skimmer. Knead the sock occasionally to get it dissolved a bit quicker. It can take up to a week for it to show up on a new test so don't bother to test CYA for a week. BUT ... when you add the CYA you need to be in a position to not clean the filters for that week or at lest for a few days or you will end up flushing the CYA right back out.
If you want to run the pump and do more filtering wait on the CYA until you think you can make it a week and just adjust the pH for now.
Then drop the pH down around 7.4 with muratic acid (Menards or ??) or the pH down and sweep the pool. You can never sweep too often and it helps mix.
Why was it the last trip to the pool store ?? Just curious.