Need some advice on how to move forward

[JDYORK]

I have been given the responsibility of caring for our pool since my father became ill and I have been having a lot of issues that I am sure are a result of my experience and also some post sandy issues that were not addressed initially.

I have an in-ground pool that is approx. 22,000 gallons with a swg with a DE filter. located at the New Jersey shore I have attached pictures that I just took of how everything looks in real time. I actually could not get them to upload so no pictures right now.

The major problems that I have been having is that the pool has been green and the salt level has been very high. The whole area was flooded with ocean water during sandy (approx 6-8 feet of water). My swg generator is telling me that the salt level is 100 and that I need to inspect the cell. Prior to receiving that message I cleaned the cell out with diluted muriatic acid and received that message after hooking it back up. I took a water sample to the local pool store and that told me that the salt reading was 44,000 but that there was no chlorine in the pool? I am not sure if the cell is bad, if ocean water is still affecting the pool, or all of the above? I am looking for any help or ideas that anyone can give me.

 

[scott.MI]

Welcome, and best wishes for your fathers well being. Best way to upload pictures is to upload them to another site like photobucket then insert the image tag into your post. There is a how to somewhere, will add it when I find it.

This site is all about taking control of your own pool, learning about water maintenance, and getting away from pool store advice. There are a lot of people with the knowledge and willingness to offer you help but we need accurate test results. FC, CC, PH, Ta, CYA, CH, and salt test since you have a SWG. If you can deal with the cost, the recommenced test kits are the taylor K-2006 or the TF-100. Tf-100 offers more of the important tests for about the same cost, with the option of add-ons like XL, speed stir, and salt test.

Now on to your problems. Your pool not having chlorine could be 1 of 2 things. A. your SWG is working but the algae that has started to grow is consuming it faster than it can be produced. B. your SWG is not working and algae is growing at an alarming rate. Regardless of the SWG, the fact that you have algae starting to grow, the SWG will not be the answer on it's own, it just produces to little too slow. Your going to have to go into manual mode and liquid chlorine or liquid bleach is the recommend product. Your going to need to follow the SLAM process in the How to section of pool school, but to do that you will need test results of your CYA and the FAS-DPD chlorine test.

If you have any water test results for Fc, CC, Ph, TA, CH, CYA, post em up and let us know if they are pool store results or if you have a test kit already.

 

[JDYORK]

Thank you for your kinds words about my father! I just received the Taylor K-2006 kit from amazon and just completed the Chlorine test, the FC result was 4.2 and when I put the #3 reagent into the water it only slightly turned back to pink but not like it was earlier, I did not put the 0871 drops in since it didn't turn completely pink. I guess that means I do not have any combined chlorine?

 

[scott.MI]

Your main focus should be on getting test results, once you get a full set of test results, and a 2nd test of your salt levels, will be able to tell if you need to drain any water or not before you get started on the SLAM to clear the greenness.

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Sounds like you used a 25ml sample of water? Should switch to 10ml water sample where each drop is .5 instead of .2.

If your water turned clear after adding the 0871, then back to pink after adding #3, that means you have CC's. You should have added the 0871 again and counted the drops...how many drops untill it goes clear again is your CC level. It won't turn completly pink, it will usually stay clear, or go slightly pink but then clear again after just a couple drops.

Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHQG4tgQsFE&list=UUNFkPFCkt9Y_YYNAeLtUr1g

photos - http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/72545-Posting-Photo-s-Tutorial

 

[JDYORK]

I added 8 drops

 

[JDYORK]

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[JDYORK]

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[scott.MI]

I added 8 drops

But was that with a 10ml water sample or a 25ml water sample? Was it during the FC or the CC part of the test?


Post up some full test results. You haven't addressed my comment on your water sample size so make sure to check out the video I linked above on testing FC and CC. Be sure to test using a 10ml water sample and test FC and CC just like the video shows. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHQG4tgQsFE&list=UUNFkPFCkt9Y_YYNAeLtUr1g

Bust out the new Taylor kit and do these tests and report back with your results.

FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA

Do you have anything other than the readout on the SWG for a testing salt levels? I don't even know what to say about the pool stores salt test result of 44,000. Someone please jump in here.

 

[JDYORK]

I just did the Free/combined tests with the 10 ml and after adding the R0870 it really didnt turn pink except maybe for a very slight tinge

ph 8.0


TA 80

ch 150

CYA 30

These were the other readings that I also got, and the only way I have to test the salt are those strips. The kit I have does not have a salt testing option

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When I did the CYA test the black dot really didnt disappear fully, but I was at the top of the vial so that is why I listed it as 30

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they used a digital tester, and that is what I got using the strip reading

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I will also remind everyone that the pool had seawater in it due to super storm sandy. Probably 6-8 feet of standing ocean water until the tide went back out

 

[scott.MI]

I will also remind everyone that the pool had seawater in it due to super storm sandy. Probably 6-8 feet of standing ocean water until the tide went back out

Well after finding this on wikipedia and google,

Seawater has a salinity of roughly 35,000 ppm, equivalent to 35 grams of salt per one liter (or kilogram) of water

That pool store test could have some truth behind it and I assume a few drain and refills are in your future.

I don't think I will be the best person to offer advice on salt levels and your SWG. Hopefully someone will join in and comment on what to do with your 44,000ppm salt pool store test result and why your SWG is only reading 100.

 

[EJ257Turbo]

I'm no expert, but when was that salt measurement taken? Is that measurement in ppm? If that was recent, I don't think your SWG will ever work with salt level that high. I think the experts here would tell you to turn your SWG OFF to prevent damage to the cell.

Also, if there was no color change after adding the DPD powder, that would mean you have no chlorine in the water.

 

[JDYORK]

it was today, I took the water down at the end of the season last year even with the first step, since the swg was reading high salt level, it brought the reading down to about 29000 but the pool kept getting green and then I had the reading of 100 today on the swg after cleaning it was acid. That is when I used the test strip and then went to the pool store who used the digital one and got a similar reading. So I guess I have to take the water down again and start over?

 

[EJ257Turbo]

Ok, I'm trying to comprehend here. You got the salt down to 29,000 at the end of last year's pool season. But today, you got a reading of 44,000? Sounds to me like the pool got flooded again with ocean water? Like I said, I'm no expert, but from what I've read here on TFP, your salt level is really high.

This might be a must read for you: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/127-salt-water-chlorine-generators-swg

 

[JDYORK]

The saltwater generator was reading 29,000 but the strips were saying that it was higher, the pool was not flooded again we have not gotten anymore water since then

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I meant 2900 for the swg but the other numbers are accurate

 

[JDYORK]

A little more clarification; the swg was not able to read the salt level to it being too high, then I did the water drain, and got the swg to read 2900, but there was no independent confirmation of that reading until I took it to the pool store where it still read high, one of my initial thoughts were that the swg system was not working due to storm damage.

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[Abigail K]

The first thing I'd address is the pH. pH 8.0 is the max reading on the kit and anything higher just reads as 8.0.
The second thing I'd address is the lack of chlorine - add 3ppm of bleach.

When I did the CYA test the black dot really didnt disappear fully, but I was at the top of the vial so that is why I listed it as 30

Did the CYA test appear cloudy at all? It sounds to me like your CYA test was slightly cloudy, but the dot didn't disappear. If so, you have some CYA, but less than 30.

A little more clarification; the swg was not able to read the salt level to it being too high, then I did the water drain, and got the swg to read 2900, but there was no independent confirmation of that reading until I took it to the pool store where it still read high, one of my initial thoughts were that the swg system was not working due to storm damage.

Let me see if I understood the process correctly.
1) your SWG indicated salt was too high (due to pool being flooded)
2) you did a partial drain and refill and your SWG read 2900ppm salt (after the partial drain)
3) you cleaned the cell with diluted muriatic acid
4) After cleaning, your SWG read 100ppm salt, but the pool store read ~2900ppm salt

 

[Abigail K]

Note: You have received responses in your other thread.

 

[JDYORK]

I am going to address the ph level and then get the algae under control since that seems to be what many are suggesting. Then I should be able to tell if my swg is not functioning properly.

The cya did not appear that cloudy at all.

Everything was accurate except 4) the pool store digital test said 44,000 according to the person who did it I did not see the meter. I ordered the Taylor salt drop kit and it will be here Monday so I will get an accurate reading on Monday. Also I a not sure I mentioned the fact that I did not add salt to the pool since Sandy because the swg was reading 2900. But I am questioning the accuracy of the swg because of the lack of FC, but a few people pointed out that the algae may be impacting that issue.

My swg panel said 100 and check cell. l I posted a picture of the panel.

 

[duraleigh]

18 Posts and, unless I missed it, there is NO suggestion to OP to read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School.

All of us want to help but I do not see it as helpful when we make suggestions completely over the head of OP.

Over the next few months, we will see "ABC's" evolve as the article that simply HAS to be read first if you want to discuss pool water chemistry.

Please help our newbies by teaching them basics that they obviously do not yet grasp......it will make their learning experience fast and precise.

Which one of these posts do you see most often here at TFP??

1. Gee, everything was so simple, I understood it immediately and need no further help! Thanks!

2. I am trying hard to read the stuff being thrown at me but I must admit to being overwhelmed.

Even if I have overlooked a reference to "ABC"s", this post remains valid. We must learn to communicate concisely with OP's and not throw abbreviations and big words proving we know what we are talking about. Saying what we know is about 1,000 times easier than teaching what we know because the teaching has to be done at a comprehensible level.

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JDYORK,

Assuming your pool is somewhere in excess of even 3,000 ppm salt, you must drain and refill. You can do that in partials of about 2/3 each but there is really nothing you can do for that pool until you get your salt level down around 3000.

Then you can get your equipment operational and determine if your SWG is working. Other chemistry adjustments and additions are pointless.

 

[JDYORK]

I did read the ABC's and have more of a grasp than when I started which wasn't zero. I now have a test kit and some very basic knowledge so I am a little more hopeful than I was. The big question I had was if my swg was working keeping the different salt readings in mind. So I guess I need to 1st drain the pool down enough to where I can get the salt level to normal and then deal with the algae and other issues??


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