I have got to get this pool clear by 4 pm saturday need help

Jul 10, 2014
5
south carolina
Hello all. I've ran into some alae trouble and this is gonna be a tough one so please bare with me.
I have a small 15 ft round intex pool with cartridge filter. I have been using aqua chem 6in1 or 5in1 I forget, from walmart. I use half a bag a week. I know the algaecide in these little bags are copper .26% or somewhere in that range. I use baking soda for ph. My pool was nice and clear a few days ago. I have a good little test kit and my chemicals were all in line. My pool need more water it was about 4-5 inches low. I added water like I always do and throw in a little shock. The next morning my pool was green. I could not see a few inches into the pool. Here's the issue of why I got algae from adding fresh water.
Our counties water supply comes from lake hartwell. It is treated at a facility and then to us. Well everyone in the county has been complaining of a bad smell and taste in the water. They released a statement that said the smell and taste was from geosmin and MIB I think I got the names correct. So basically toxins form algae blooms in our drinking water. They say its safe to drink but most people arent drinking it. Then they had a pipe burst and told us to boil the water because it was unsafe because of the pipe burst. They fixed the pipe and later said it was safe to drink and they were adding a machine that would use carbon to filter the geosmin and mib out of the water. I am sure this is how my pool turned green over night. You can fill your bath tub and see the water is dirty. I am not the only person's pool that has been messed up by adding the water.
Sorry for the rant but I wanted to explain how I very good balanced pool turned into algae over night.
Here is what I done after the algae.
I threw in another half a bag of shock that had the small percent of copper algaecide.
That did nothing. So the next day I scrubbed the pool and added 5 or 6 ounces of cationic polymer algaeicide. The next day the pool was no longer green but cloudy. So I put in some HTH clarifier. The next day (today) it was less cloudy. So I vacuum scrubbed the pool. It did nothing but stir it all up and it back cloudy. I checked my levels and my chlorine was low so I added more chlorine.
What else can I possibly do? Yes, I am a newbie at this. Next year I am going to follow the wonderful trouble free instructions you guys have, looks so much simpler and cheaper than what I have been doing. Also I have a concern. The auqa chem 6in1 says not to add any other chemicals and of course I didnt see that until AFTER i put the cationic polymer in. Will there be any issues with having copper and cationic polymer in the pool? Thanks to anyone who took the time to read. I dont think Im gonna be able to get this pool right by 4 pm saturday for my kids borthday party. Heres hoping someone here knows. Thanks again!

I typed in the wrong chemical name as my algaecide. I said I used cationic polymer as my algaecide. THat was incorrect. THat is my clarifier. I used HTH algaecide.
 
Ok, first off your best bet is probably drain and replace water at this point in time, given the combination of lack of detailed test results, the probability that your test kit can not measure CYA or FC levels over 10 ppm which is needed to follow the SLAM process efficiently and safely to clear an algae bloom, and the lack of time before the party.

Going from there it is hard to give advice without a complete set of test results, and also knowing what kind of chlorine products you have been using. "Bag of shock" could be dichlor, which adds both FC and CYA to the water, or could be Cal-Hypo which adds Calcium and FC, it might even be TriChlor powder which also adds FC and CYA, but at a higher FC to CYA ratio than Dichlor. If I were to guess at this point my guess is you have been using Dichlor since opening, and now the CYA level has went sky high causing the chlorine to be "over stabilized" loosing much of its effectiveness.
 
Ok, first off your best bet is probably drain and replace water at this point in time, given the combination of lack of detailed test results, the probability that your test kit can not measure CYA or FC levels over 10 ppm which is needed to follow the SLAM process efficiently and safely to clear an algae bloom, and the lack of time before the party.

Going from there it is hard to give advice without a complete set of test results, and also knowing what kind of chlorine products you have been using. "Bag of shock" could be dichlor, which adds both FC and CYA to the water, or could be Cal-Hypo which adds Calcium and FC, it might even be TriChlor powder which also adds FC and CYA, but at a higher FC to CYA ratio than Dichlor. If I were to guess at this point my guess is you have been using Dichlor since opening, and now the CYA level has went sky high causing the chlorine to be "over stabilized" loosing much of its effectiveness.

You are correct I checked the bad and it is dichlor. Draining and refilling the pool was my first thought at the beginning of the week but, the issue with that is our water supply is not clean. A friend of mine filled his pool (same pool as mine) and when he came outside 12 hours laters to see if it was full his fresh clean water from the hosepipe had his pool looking 10x's worse than mine did. I mean the water supply here is unbelievable and noone in our town has a clue when its going to get better. So refilling is out of the question.
I have a 6 way test kit but I dont know how to use it. I kept this little pool crystal clear all year last year by doing nothing but adding dichlor and baking soda once a week sometimes twice if the kids swam alot. So the pnly thing I know how to read is the chlorine and ph. As soon as this birthday party is over I am going to have some time off and spend it here educating myself on all of this so I will have a clue what I am doing.
 
Since your fill water is poor, I would tend to treat the water you have. The issue is that it likely will not be done by Saturday. If you follow any of the threads on fixing a green pool, you need a test kit and a lot of bleach to keep the pool at a chlorine level that will kill the algae. That chlorine level is dependent on how much stabilizer is in the water, and I doubt the test kit you have will provide an accurate reading. If you don't care about your liner, you could add a lot of bleach and keep the filter running.
 
The problem is CYA can only effectively be lowered by water replacement, if you happen to have an idea of the total amount of dichlor / trichlor you have used since the pool was filled then you can do a ballpark calculation using the pool math link above to see how high your CYA probably is.
 
If it were me on that short deadline I'd dump in one 121oz bottle of unscented bleach from Walmart and run the filter 24/7 till tommorow. If you can take a photo of the water now, tonight, and in the morning so we could see what the water is doing that would help. I know most people want test kit readings before helping but you need quick results and may need to shoot from the hip. With your pool size one jug will raise your FC by about 15ppm and even if you have a little in your pool already it should keep it near safe shock levels. What I worry about is those Intex cartridge filters can take a long time to clear a pool even if you do kill the algae bloom. I ended up switching to a sand filter when I had an Intex pool same size as you.
 
lets see. yesterday i threw in a 1 lb bag of aqua chem 5in1 or 6 in1 shock from walmart. it uses di chlor. today i added clarifier again (cationic polymer) waited then vacuumed. then i threw in a pound of ph minus because the ph was to high. then i threw in 2 pounds of shock that i had its ingredient was sodium hydrochlorite. the pool is a cloudy but id say the color is milky. i dunno.
 
im trying to find the dang test results i got from the pool place today. the pool place is always my last resort because they always try to sell me stuff i dont need. like calcium. i dont see why and intex pool needs calcium.
also to the poster who said if i cared about the liner. i do not care about it. im getting rid of this pool this winter for a larger one. since i have dichlor in already and 2 pounds of sodium hypochlorite. will adding bleach make it some awful chemical reaction. i get worried when it comes to chemicals.
 
these are the results the pool store gave me from my water sample. they recommended 1 pound of ph minus (i added it) also 2 pounds of shock in the form of sodium hypochlorite? i have been using dichlor.

free chlorine 6.2ppm
total chlorine 8.2ppm
combined chlorine 2.0ppm
ph 7.8
hardness 20ppm
alkalinity 177ppm
cyanuric acid 54ppm
copper 0
iron 0
nitrate 7ppm
phosphate 100 ppb
total dissolved solids 830 ppm
 

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Bleach is liquid sodium hypochlorite. Says so right on the label. Same as chlorinating liquid sold by pool stores, just at a lower concentration. Adding bleach will not cause any more harm than adding another bag of dichlor, and is actually better since it does not add CYA or calcium to your pool.

If you have a pool vacuum try and vacuum out some of the debris that is settling on the pool floor. If you have a spare cartridge swap it out and clean it when it gets full as your vacuum.

Plug your test results into PoolMath and it will tell you what your shock level is and how much bleach to add to reach shock level.
 
This Aqua Chem Dichlor Shock has copper in it: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Chemical-Shock-Xtra-Blue-5pk/17126411

This Aqua Chem Dichlor Shock does not have copper in it: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Chemical-Shock-Plus-5pk/17126402

Copper can turn the water green and also your hair if there is too much of it. Are you sure you have algae or a buildup of copper? Either way you do not need any more dichlor or trichlor tablets for that matter since the pool store reading on the CYA (Stabilizer) is usually low. Your probably looking at least around 70ppm of CYA if I was to guess. The pool store probably didnt test for metals with your water sample but some will upon request. Sounds like you need to take a sample of your fill water and have it tested since you do not have a test kit.

I didnt know there was a sodium hypochlorite powdered shock. Are you sure it wasnt calcium hypochlorite?

There is no reason to wait until next year to start TFP methods. Why not start now? There is always someone here to promptly answer any questions you may have. If you have a build up of copper, then all you can do is drain it and replace the water. A pic of your pool/water would give the experts an idea of what your looking at.
 
+1 on changing and cleaning your filter cartridge. Vacuum+Clean cartridge then vacuum and clean cartridge again. I had an Intex filter system and I know you have to clean those cartridges at least every other day even when you werent fighting an algae bloom. Keep those cartridges clean and get some Bleach in the water.
 
Sorry I didn't see this sooner... this week has been very busy.

Go to your local hardware store and get an RV potable water filter (scroll down here a bit: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/79613-As-Promised-pictures-and-the-saga to see what I used). I watch for these to go on sale at the end of the season. We have so much dissolved iron in the water; however, it's below the federal and state action levels. Still, leaves an iron deposit on the sidewalks, buildings and cars when the water dries!

Any, if I understand correctly, this filter has a silt/particulates filter, activated carbon and some other resins... think of it like a "Brita" water filter for the end of your hose. The one shown in the above thread came as a two pack, I with what you are saying about the water quality, I'd fill the pool 1/2 way and then switch them out - still may not work to clean everything out; however, should get a lot of the junk.

After that, follow the experts advice on the bleach/liquid chlorine, pH, CYA, etc...
 
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