Two kids with ear infections....newb wanting to know if its the pool

Jun 26, 2013
53
To start off this is my first year owning a pool.

Background: We have a saltwater pool (all pentair equipment) with a spillover hot tub here in Toronto Canada.

I have four boys, one of them got an ear infection which started a week ago. Doctor gave him antibiotics and it has since cleared up but my other son just started getting the same ear infection. The only common denominator I can think of is the pool.

I've had my water tested and besides required ph down the water is fine??? Is this something else I need to be concerned about testing for? Is this just common?

Any help or suggestions on what to do or not is appreciated.
 
I vote yes, that is is the pool.

Same thing happened to my wife and I the first week or so we owned the pool. We were under the impression that if the water "looked clear", the water was fine to swim in. Wrong.


Once that happened, I decided to make sure I KNEW FOR A FACT what was going on with my pool, and how to take care of it, and I found this forum.

Order the TF 100, and the speed stir.

Never get ear infections from your pool again.


The problem is lack of chlorine. Even though the water may look clear, it is not chlorinated enough, so it will have bacteria, viruses, and germs it, which will cause ear infections.
 
We can not even begin to trouble shoot your pool water with you without test results. Fine is not a test result.

Also, What we need to know to answer your questions.

As I said I'm a newb...so please no bashing please. Here it is:

fc 0
tc .61
cc .61
ph 8
hardness 158
alkalinity 89
cyanuric acid 29
copper 0
iron 0
Salt 3100

Inground vinyl pool
15000 gallons
Cartridge Filter
Intellichlor
Intellitouch
IntelliFlo VS

Thanks very much
 
Thanks for the reply however I get my water tested about every couple of weeks at our nearby pool store.

You are right though the pool does look clear.

I vote yes, that is is the pool.

Same thing happened to my wife and I the first week or so we owned the pool. We were under the impression that if the water "looked clear", the water was fine to swim in. Wrong.


Once that happened, I decided to make sure I KNEW FOR A FACT what was going on with my pool, and how to take care of it, and I found this forum.

Order the TF 100, and the speed stir.

Never get ear infections from your pool again.


The problem is lack of chlorine. Even though the water may look clear, it is not chlorinated enough, so it will have bacteria, viruses, and germs it, which will cause ear infections.

- - - Updated - - -

One other question, my intellichlor reads 2950 ppm but yet when I got it tested they say its 3100ppm? Can it be off a little?

I originally had had the intellichlor set for 20% output but the pool store said I should up to 40-50%. I'm kind of worried about the ear infections so I have it set for 50%.

As well because my pool uses Intellitouch, I have it programmed to filter every 12 hours (7pm-7am). Should I be running longer or at different times?

Sorry for so many questions but as I said this is all very new to me and pretty scary to think that I could be causing my childrens sickness.
 
I'm a newb as well, just outside of Toronto, but FC of 0 is bad as it's telling you that you have no Chlorine so I would start the SLAM ASAP. I don't believe the Salt Generator is capable of helping you right now so you'll need to add bleach/liquid chlorine until you pass the SLAM.

I was relying on the pool store as well but when their advice wasn't working out I took matters into my own hands. I ordered the TF-100 kit but I shipped it to my wife's hotel who was in the US this week for work, I get it tomorrow, very exciting. I could not find any good test kits locally, sure pool stores sold them but they were not the right FAS-DPD Chlorine test which is what you want.
 
I was not bashing you. We can not go off of test results that are posted as "fine & ok". I understand you are a newbie and you are not the only one to ever make that comment.

Your CYA is too low for your SWG. if we go off the pool store result, your FC is low, and pH is high (good that you're bringing it down) and looks like your Cc's are creeping up there. How does the water look? May be time to SLAM but use liquid chlorine as the SWG won't keep up. You can order the K2006 on Amazon, I believe. :goodjob:
 
Casey thanks for the reply. I must have read more into your comment then. I'm sorry. I do appreciate your help.

The water looks fairly clear. Okay I'll try and add liquid chlorine.

If I look further at the print out of the test it clearly states CC is above recommended levels. This wasn't really told to me by the store clerk (bless her heart).

NOTE: If the chlorine shock recommendation is chosen, please disregard the sanitizer recommendation. "The pool should not be used until the free available chlorine concentration is again within the ideal range"

DUH!!

- - - Updated - - -

img002.jpg
 
If we're to believe the Store, your CC is still acceptable and a regular dose of Chlorine may bring it all back into range and you could have escaped an algae bloom by catching it early.

What did you target your CYA to be since you added the Stabilizer? If you went with 70ppm CYA, your target FC should be 5 since you're using a SWG. I would dose that with liquid chlorine and run the numbers again tomorrow to see what they say. If you can get a test kit, do so. It's worth the investment. :goodjob:

If you have a vinyl pool, disregard Calcium Hardness. It would help if you could fill in your signature with your pool specs and equipment in settings. Thank you. :cool:
 

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Welcome to TFP!

I have to say that getting a proper test kit and taking control of the pool should be your top priority to prevent repeated infections ... That is scary and I would hate for my kids to have infections due to swimming in my pool. I do not like when their eyes hurt, but that is inevitable after hours swimming under water with their eyes open.
 
Agreed. I actually do have a test kit that the pool installer left me but I just thought taking it to the pool store that has automated water test system "Waterlink Datamate 10" http://www.lamotte.com/en/pool-spa/software/1768.html takes the guessing work out of the testing kits.

I obviously do not want my kids to get sick either that's why I've come here for help. Come morning I'm going to get some liquid chlorine bring up the fc and I'll crack open my test kit.



Welcome to TFP!

I have to say that getting a proper test kit and taking control of the pool should be your top priority to prevent repeated infections ... That is scary and I would hate for my kids to have infections due to swimming in my pool. I do not like when their eyes hurt, but that is inevitable after hours swimming under water with their eyes open.
 
I have to sympathize with the "swimmers ear" scare as we struggled for two years with a SWCG (not blaming the generator per se) and many ear aches, but all is well now. Get the test kit (cheaper than a trip to the doctor's office here in the States), take control of your water balance and kiss the infections goodbye. My kids have even started swimming without their goggles underwater and never complain about their eyes afterward. Don't get discouraged and follow the plan provided on this wesbite!
 
Not sure what you mean by this "What did you target your CYA to be since you added the Stabilizer?" All I know is that the person at the pool store said to add 1 shock, ph down and stabilizer according to the amounts printed. Which is what I had done.

I just second guess things when my second son came back with an ear ache as well which is why I posted.

So please let me get this straight, I should add 3.23 oz of liquid chlorine and test? It's already night and stores are closed, I'd like to pick it up first thing in the morning and add the asap. When should I test?

If we're to believe the Store, your CC is still acceptable and a regular dose of Chlorine may bring it all back into range and you could have escaped an algae bloom by catching it early.

What did you target your CYA to be since you added the Stabilizer? If you went with 70ppm CYA, your target FC should be 5 since you're using a SWG. I would dose that with liquid chlorine and run the numbers again tomorrow to see what they say. If you can get a test kit, do so. It's worth the investment. :goodjob:

If you have a vinyl pool, disregard Calcium Hardness. It would help if you could fill in your signature with your pool specs and equipment in settings. Thank you. :cool:

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks CeeElGee....I have to say its VERY intimidating, this is my first pool and I was coasting along without any problems until this came up. What a shocker to say the least.


I have to sympathize with the "swimmers ear" scare as we struggled for two years with a SWCG (not blaming the generator per se) and many ear aches, but all is well now. Get the test kit (cheaper than a trip to the doctor's office here in the States), take control of your water balance and kiss the infections goodbye. My kids have even started swimming without their goggles underwater and never complain about their eyes afterward. Don't get discouraged and follow the plan provided on this wesbite!
 
It is our collective experience that pool store water test generally serve only one purpose and that is to let them sell you stuff that you likely don't need. Any accuracy in their fancy looking digital testing systems is purely a mater of luck, the simple truth is all of these computerized testers are sensitive to calibration and sample handling issues, and most pool stores seem to care very little about either of those..

Ike

p.s. the DataMate 10 is just the interpretation software, the hardware for the test will likely be a WaterLink or WaterLab product of some type, the latest one they are pushing is the WaterLink Spin Lab. Overall it might be a reasonably good product, other than the fact that it cost about $1,000 and the consumables are about double the price of the consumables used in the test on the TF-100 kit. The downside to the Spin lab is filling and handling the spin disks, they must be held by the edge, placed only on a clean surface and care must be taken to not over / under fill or introduce are into the water sample. Just watch this training video to see what I mean and ask yourself if the minimum wate employee at the pool store is likely to take the proper care when running the test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDyJJn8J_pc
 
So please let me get this straight, I should add 3.23 oz of liquid chlorine and test? It's already night and stores are closed, I'd like to pick it up first thing in the morning and add the asap. When should I test?

Incorrect. Look again at the printout photo you posted. Assuming the 0 FC is correct (very bad), and not knowing how many gallons of water your pool holds, the recommendation was for 3.2 LITERS of chlorine (again, no indication of the strength or percentage of liquid chlorine) or 3 quarts, 1 pint and 3.2 ounces - let's just call it a gallon! But you need to know the volume of your pool and the type of liquid chlorine (6% or 8.25% household bleach or 10% or 12.5% liquid "shock" as some packaging describes it. Pool School and the Pool Calculator spell it all out for you.

P.S. You can circulate your water and test the chlorine after a half an hour, but if you're really at zero FC and your kids are getting sick from the water, it's likely to get consumed quickly. Even if the FC shows up after 30 minutes, I'd keep testing all day long and keep adding. Get an accurate way to test the FC and calculate your pool's volume.
 
Incorrect. Look again at the printout photo you posted. Assuming the 0 FC is correct (very bad), and not knowing how many gallons of water your pool holds, the recommendation was for 3.2 LITERS of chlorine (again, no indication of the strength or percentage of liquid chlorine) or 3 quarts, 1 pint and 3.2 ounces - let's just call it a gallon! But you need to know the volume of your pool and the type of liquid chlorine (6% or 8.25% household bleach or 10% or 12.5% liquid "shock" as some packaging describes it. Pool School and the Pool Calculator spell it all out for you.

P.S. You can circulate your water and test the chlorine after a half an hour, but if you're really at zero FC and your kids are getting sick from the water, it's likely to get consumed quickly. Even if the FC shows up after 30 minutes, I'd keep testing all day long and keep adding. Get an accurate way to test the FC and calculate your pool's volume.

Again thanks for the reply. I just added my signature settings last night as Casey had suggested which includes all my info however what you don't see in the printout is the volume of the pool which it used to calculate the quantities recommended (I had to cut it out as it included my personal info).

As for my attempt to speak Imperial system, I guess I failed miserably. I just thought there are more Americans than Canadians here in this forum. I prefer metric as it's much easier to navigate.

So I believe the amounts are correct as the pool store has a complete profile of my pool (volume, swg, etc). What do you think?

I will test this morning my self.
 
It is our collective experience that pool store water test generally serve only one purpose and that is to let them sell you stuff that you likely don't need. Any accuracy in their fancy looking digital testing systems is purely a mater of luck, the simple truth is all of these computerized testers are sensitive to calibration and sample handling issues, and most pool stores seem to care very little about either of those..

Ike


p.s. the DataMate 10 is just the interpretation software, the hardware for the test will likely be a WaterLink or WaterLab product of some type, the latest one they are pushing is the WaterLink Spin Lab. Overall it might be a reasonably good product, other than the fact that it cost about $1,000 and the consumables are about double the price of the consumables used in the test on the TF-100 kit. The downside to the Spin lab is filling and handling the spin disks, they must be held by the edge, placed only on a clean surface and care must be taken to not over / under fill or introduce are into the water sample. Just watch this training video to see what I mean and ask yourself if the minimum wate employee at the pool store is likely to take the proper care when running the test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDyJJn8J_pc

Got it....okay so not to trust the store and to test my self. Going to do that right now.
 
Got it....okay so not to trust the store and to test my self. Going to do that right now.
Before I start, let my just say you have been given good advice by several folks. But, as someone new to this game it can be confusing having several folks "talking" at the same time. You might think it would be better for just one person to answer your questions, but generally it's not. The one person answering may be away form the computer for hours/days after answering and we don't want to see you left hanging. Just stay calm and work your way through this.

Now, on to my comments.

As you have read around here you have seen that not much credence is given to pool store testing. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing.

To follow the pool care methods taught here you need to arm yourself with the knowledge and tools necessary to care for your pool.

The knowledge is condensed in the Pool School link at the top of every page. It is a great community here, but we do ask that you read and try to understand the information being taught. Questions are always welcome and folks will try to direct you and teach you the methods.

The tools are not limited to the brushes, vacuum hoses and other stuff you use around the pool, but include the most important item - one of the recommended test kits. The problem you have is that one company in Canada has a exclusive on the Taylor chemicals all the test kits are based on, thus making them extremly expensive north of the border. Read this thread for information on companies that sell via E-Bay to Canada. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All the kits on the list contain that test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store or given by pool builders generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not! Think of it this way, do you see a doctor blindly prescribing drugs without seeing the patient or having tests run? Here at TFP we are going to ask for photos so we can see the condition of the water and are going to ask for a full set of test results.

It is going to seem frustrating to you that folks keep asking for test results. Pool water changes quickly and sometimes you will be testing multiple times a day as you work through issues. As and example, what many folks don't really understand is that chlorine is a consumable item. Just that your chlorine keeps going away is not an accurate symptom, but some times we need to know how fast it is going away.

Just understand, trying to mix pool store advice and our advice won't work! You will have to decide which path to follow. No one here financially gains from recommendations given, and they will even try to tell you the least expensive way to go.

Sorry if this seems long winded, but welcome to TFP!!
 

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