Me vs. Iron stains - Round 4

Oasis, somewhere on this forum is a thread by a guy who did a water change by taping together visqueen plastic sheets, putting the fresh water on top while simultaneously draining. That keeps the pressure up to stop the vinyl from floating or sides caving if you have a high water table.

Might be worth a try.
 
Hmmm. Sheet method sounds interesting. Thanks for finding the post. My pool store folks are saying to never drain more than 6 inches below the skimmer. They suggest a series of partial refills. I think it would take me the rest of this summer and half of next to replace the percentage of water necessary to get my CYA down to where it needs to be (I'm at cya 90 with 20K gallons). Since I have metal and cya, I really, really want to get some fresh H20 sooner rather than later.

Pool tech did find a little bit of pink behind the light fixture when he removed it. Very small amount, he said. He left me a bottle of Pink Treat, but I'm hesitant to use it because someone on here said it can create a high chlorine demand. That's how all this started, (high chlorine demand after AA treatment and excessive amounts of metal sequestering agent), soooo don't want to go back there again.

I passed the FC loss test, but I'm right on the edge. I lost EXACTLY 1 ppm of FC last night. I read my CC as .3 because the sample almost clears with one drop (I'm using a 25 ml sample for more accuracy right now, so even with the second drop, I'm at .4, still in range). My water is crystal clear. There is no visible mold or algae. Knock wood.

Pink Treat calls for an immediate shock right after you add it. I'd really like to get in the pool this weekend, so I'm not sure whether to treat and shock or wait and see.

As far as the metal issue goes, there is very light staining on the fiberglass steps, and I'm still running with a high FC (7.5) and Ph at 7.4. So metal's still there, but I'm surprised these high FC levels have not made the whole pool dark brown. I may buy one of the iron test kits, not sure which one, to see if it will detect my level. Testing at the pool store has turned up nothing, but the Metal Magic may have been fooling the test. Would like to have a home kit for monitoring.
 
TFTKits has a Taylor iron test kit. http://tftestkits.net/K-1716-Taylor-Iron-Test-p30.html

We've been using our aquarium testing kit, but I'd expect Taylor to be a good one since a) TFT carries it and b) Taylor makes the reagents we all use.

However, again, the tests are unreliable not because of their quality, but because of the sequester/oxidization factors. If you had no sequestrant in...then you'd get an accurate reading. But if you had no sequestrat in...well then you'd have stains ;) so I don't believe the tests can TELL you how much iron is sequestered that will be RELEASED if ph gets high, or the sequestering agent wears down, etc.

But you could test your source water.

I'm saving the sheet water change trick for some future date when I can orchestrate a water truck if the pool gets out of control. But the pool is very well controlled this year in terms of staining and I don't have high cya, so I'm golden fr the moment. In my case, my well is loaded with iron.

In your case, having both high cya AND metals, I think the sheet change would give you a fresh start and help combat and future pink film because your shock and/or maintenance levels would be much lower, so go for it :)
 
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