start up chemicals

Jul 7, 2014
145
atco/nj
I just had a liner installed. I fIlled it half with well water and half was trucked in city water. I went to the pool store to have the water tested. I walked out of there feeling raped. Here is the results of the water test.
FC 0
TC 0
Cc 0
PH 6.4
Hardness 0
Alk 0
Cyanuric 2ppm
Copper .1ppm
Iron .3ppm
They sold me 2Qt stain remover
25lb Alk increaser
75lb calcium hardness control
1 Qt Algaecide
To the tune of 200 some dollars.
40x18 lazy L rectangle. 8.5 deep 3ft shallow. I came up with 31000 gal roughly. Vinyle liner. Please let me know if this all sounds right. They said do the metal remover first filter 24hrs. Then the Alk 12.5 lbs a day and split the hardness in 4 parts. Then shock after 72 hrs. Then 6lbs of chlorine stabilizer. Seems like alot to throw in the water. Please help
 
Really there is almost nothing in this that sounds right and I hope you can return those chemicals.

I highly doubt that your water has zero hardness and zero alkalinity, and I know it has zero CYA so their reading of 2 is just a joke their computer played on them and you. Pool store testing is completely worthless.

Ok, now on to what they sold you

They sold me 2Qt stain remover
Do you have stains that require removing?
25lb Alk increaser
Again, I doubt your TA is zero, but even if it is this is nothing but baking soda. So figure out how much 25 lbs of baking soda costs, then compare that to how much they charged you for it.
75lb calcium hardness control
I assume this is calcium? Again, I doubt their readings, but you have a vinyl pool so it does not really matter much
1 Qt Algaecide
Not needed.

What you really need is better test results gotten with your own kit. I have a link in my signature to the only two that have all of the proper tests. You do need to get a simple test to confirm your pH results right away, a simple test from a big box store that has red and yellow color comparison blocks will get you that. Grab one tonight if you don't already have one. NOT TEST STRIPS! If your pH is really that low you need to get it up above 7.2 ASAP. Once your pH is adjusted the next step is to add enough chlorine to get to about 2-3 ppm. Then stabilizer can be added. If it is a powder put it in a sock and tie it in front of the water return so it can slowly dissolve. Once you are able to properly test your water you can tackle the TA and CH.

Use PoolMath to figure out how much soda ash, chlorine, and stabilizer to add to get things balanced.

How are you planning to chlorinate your pool? Pucks, SWG, powdered chlorine, or liquid chlorine? That will decide how you want to attack the steps after pH and chlorine.
 
I just installed a Hayward CL220 chlorinator for the chlorine. The stain remover is a metal remover for the copper and iron from the well. When I first opened the pool I had metal stains so I figured ok on that. But the 75lb of calcium hardness. Got me thinking. If the Alk is just baking soda I'll go buy that from walmart.

- - - Updated - - -

I just did the red and yellow drop test. Between 6.8 and 7.2
 
Remember, there is no metal remover, it is a sequestrant. It will need dosed regularly to keep the metals in suspension, assuming you actually need it. Since half of your fill water is most likely metal free you may not need it at all.

Adjust your pH up to around 7.5 and add enough stabilizer to bring your CYA to 20. Because you are using tablets your CYA will constantly be rising and your pH and TA will constantly be dropping, so you will need to keep an eye on those all the time. Be sure as your CYA rises that you are raising your FC as well to keep up. Follow the FC/CYA chart in the pool school.

If you are using soda ash (sodium carbonate) to raise your pH then it will raise your TA as well. Baking soda will only raise TA.
 
Thanks for all the help and information. I think I am goin to have to hold off because I just found two large bumps under the liner that feels like it will pop thru the liner in the shallow end. Have to call the pool guy 2mrow. Unfortunately I think the only fix is to drain and remove it. Just spent 3k and they will not be patching it!
 
So I have to get the PH and chlorine up before I do anything. I'm going to try to return all those chemicals 2mrow and hit the home depot. From what I understand, the chlorine has to be below 1ppm to use the metal sequester. So do that first?
 
Ok, I got the 25lbs of Alk increaser and 6lbs of ph rise in throughout the day today. I also purchased the TF100 kit. That should be here in a day or two. The pump is running now withe the chlorinator turned to the middle [4]. I think thats all I should put in. I'll let that run tonight and will get home tomorrow around 3. I'll then check it with strips and the red and yellow test (all I have avail now). I also dissolved 2 lbs of stabilizer and put that in to get things started. Am I on the right track here?
 

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That's why most of us use bleach or a SWG as our chlorine source since they don't raise cya. If you're going to use a tablet feeder, then back washing your filter and a partial drain every season will help keep cya in check but you'll still need to monitor it.
 
Start here...
Pool School
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/

I was a tablet/pool store guy for years. Then i had a house with no pool. This year we put in a new pool and in the 3 weeks or so its been in, it has been the cleanest, clearest, nicest pool i've ever owned. Follow the advice of this site and you will spend less money and have a nicer pool than you ever have before!!!!

I'll probably spend roughly $50-$60 this year in Chlorine. And once I get my CYA upwards of 50ppm, that will probably decrease. Full sun kills my FC numbers during the day. Take that amount and compare it to probably over $200 if I would have went the other way.

Once you understand the relationship between CYA and FC, things get ALOT easier.

Also, I see there is an Ollies Bargain Outlet close to you. Go there and get their 12.5% liquid pool shock. Its $2.99 a gallon.
 
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