25k gal plaster pool nitrates: 50 FC: 0.47 TC:2.15 CC:1.68 PH:7.8 H:223 TA:82 CYA 27 TDS:590 add at night 7.5lb super pool treat (Sod Dichlor) next day test, FC: 0.7 TC:2.85 CC: 2.15 ph 7.4 H:230 TA: 46 CYA: 40 TDS:600 that night added 5 gal liquid shock (12.5% sod hypochlor) and alb baking soda ,next day test, FC:0.9 TC:5.06 CC:4.17 PH 7.4 H:243 TA 58 CYA: 41TDS 630 Am I fighting a losing battle by shocking nightly to get FC up and CC to peak and reverse? or just replace water? Thanks
New Member Chlorine nitrates issues
- Thread starter Trader7111
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
Where are those results coming from? They are showing changes that are just not possible.
With the high CC numbers, you should follow the SLAM process that is described in Pool School and that requires one of the recommended test kits.
Where are those results coming from? They are showing changes that are just not possible.
With the high CC numbers, you should follow the SLAM process that is described in Pool School and that requires one of the recommended test kits.
Algae feeds on nitrates and phosphates.
A properly chlorinated pool will have no algae to feed.
If your pool is not properly chlorinated and you already have algae, the presence of nitrates/phosphates will allow the algae to reproduce faster. It will take MORE chlorine but only because there is MORE algae.
It has nothing to do with nitrates reducing chlorine's effectiveness.
A properly chlorinated pool will have no algae to feed.
If your pool is not properly chlorinated and you already have algae, the presence of nitrates/phosphates will allow the algae to reproduce faster. It will take MORE chlorine but only because there is MORE algae.
It has nothing to do with nitrates reducing chlorine's effectiveness.
Also, I wouldn't put much faith in Pool Store test results. They can be all over the place using the same sample water. Also, remember, they are in the business of selling chemicals.
We highly recommend you invest in a good test kit. Most will recommend the TF-100 or the smaller K-2006. Once you obtain a proper kit, you'll be able to get accurate results and begin taking control of your pool.
In the meantime, start reading Pool School by clicking the link on the upper right of the page.
We highly recommend you invest in a good test kit. Most will recommend the TF-100 or the smaller K-2006. Once you obtain a proper kit, you'll be able to get accurate results and begin taking control of your pool.
In the meantime, start reading Pool School by clicking the link on the upper right of the page.
Wow. There's a lot here.
I'll tell you the problem in a nutshell. You're letting the pool store test your water and sell you a whole bunch of stuff. That's the problem.
nitrates: 50
FC: 0.47
TC:2.15
CC:1.68
PH:7.8
CH:223
TA:82
CYA 27
TDS:590
That's your starting point. We ignore nitrates, phosphates, and total dissolved solids. So what's left is a cloudy, possibly green, pool with a lot of Combined Chlorine and inadequate Free Chlorine for the CYA level.
Then you dumped in a bunch of dichlor, which temporarily raised the FC but it was all gone before it got retested. But it also raised the CYA level and lowered the pH. The increase in Combined chlorine shows something is in there eating the free chlorine.
Next, a massive dose of liquid shock. That should have shoved FC up to 25. It didn't. Instead, your Combined Chlorine jumped a whole lot.
Surprisingly, the CYA numbers aren't too far from what could be expected with that amount of Dichlor. You may actually be at 40ish CYA, which is a good level for what comes next.
What you need is the Shock Level And Maintain Process. That is what you've been doing with the bleach, but more consistently. Like, every hour or two instead of once a day. Test, replenish, brush. Test, replenish, brush. It requires a lot of bleach and a proper test kit that can measure FC levels up in the vicinity of 15-20. That leaves two choices: the TF100 or the Taylor K-2006. For what you have ahead of you, the best value is the TF100 with the XL option.
No more powders. Liquid bleach/shock only for the SLAM.
It can be done. Here's some proof. Look at the pictures!
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/79787-Gone-for-2-months-and-return-to-a-swamp
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/74959-How-much-chlorine-will-I-need-(gross-numbers)/page2 post 37 especially
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/75213-the-pool-is-winning
http://www.troublefreepool.com/thre...-the-TFP-Forum!!!-Another-Green-to-Clean-tale
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/76128-TFP-Success
Just do what they did.
I'll tell you the problem in a nutshell. You're letting the pool store test your water and sell you a whole bunch of stuff. That's the problem.
nitrates: 50
FC: 0.47
TC:2.15
CC:1.68
PH:7.8
CH:223
TA:82
CYA 27
TDS:590
That's your starting point. We ignore nitrates, phosphates, and total dissolved solids. So what's left is a cloudy, possibly green, pool with a lot of Combined Chlorine and inadequate Free Chlorine for the CYA level.
Then you dumped in a bunch of dichlor, which temporarily raised the FC but it was all gone before it got retested. But it also raised the CYA level and lowered the pH. The increase in Combined chlorine shows something is in there eating the free chlorine.
Next, a massive dose of liquid shock. That should have shoved FC up to 25. It didn't. Instead, your Combined Chlorine jumped a whole lot.
Surprisingly, the CYA numbers aren't too far from what could be expected with that amount of Dichlor. You may actually be at 40ish CYA, which is a good level for what comes next.
What you need is the Shock Level And Maintain Process. That is what you've been doing with the bleach, but more consistently. Like, every hour or two instead of once a day. Test, replenish, brush. Test, replenish, brush. It requires a lot of bleach and a proper test kit that can measure FC levels up in the vicinity of 15-20. That leaves two choices: the TF100 or the Taylor K-2006. For what you have ahead of you, the best value is the TF100 with the XL option.
No more powders. Liquid bleach/shock only for the SLAM.
It can be done. Here's some proof. Look at the pictures!
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/79787-Gone-for-2-months-and-return-to-a-swamp
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/74959-How-much-chlorine-will-I-need-(gross-numbers)/page2 post 37 especially
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/75213-the-pool-is-winning
http://www.troublefreepool.com/thre...-the-TFP-Forum!!!-Another-Green-to-Clean-tale
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/76128-TFP-Success
Just do what they did.
Thanks Richard will get the TF100 with xl options appreciate pool is very clear no issue only CF TC CC