I was wondering if there are any effective products out there to increase CYA that doesn't cost an arm like the one I bought from Leslie yesterday (1 Gallon for $35).
CYA - stabilizer
- Thread starter p_pan
- Start date
Pool stores and in some of the big boxes like Home depot and hardware stores like Ace that have pool departments.p_pan said:
It takes about a week to dissolve. the way to add it is to clean your filter, pour the correct amount of CYA (it's granular) into your skimmer with the pump running, run the pump for abut 48hours non stop, don't clean your filter for a week, and test the CYA after the week has passed.
Waterbear,
Thanks for your reply and follow up on this. You are the best. BTW, I changed from Chroline to SWG before the plumming got finished just because of the many reviews I read and also because of your postings.
Anywa, my pool is just a month old and I have had consistent low levels of FC/TC and CYA. On the startup, the PB never did anyting or perhaps not enough on the CYA. Also, for 4 weeks, mistakenly, all I was concerned was FC/TC and PH/TA. That's when it clicked and I realized that I probably had to test CYA as well. Based on that, I did test my water yesterday with the TF-100 and also took a sample to the local store. Here are the results:
FC - 2 (TF-100: 1.0)
TC - 2 (TF-100: 1.5)
PH - 8.2 (TF-100: same)
TA - 90 (TF-100: 110)
CH - 240 (TF-100: 270)
CYA - 30 (TF-100: 28)
Phosphates - 2500
Temp: 86
Needless to say, I bought on the Phosfree idea but have not used it and after what I read here, I realized that I will go back to the store and either return or exchange for something else.
Anyway, I did the followign things yesterday after the the testing:
1) Boosted the Aquapure 1400 (100%) for 24 hours
2) Added 32 OZ of liquid Muriatic Acid
3) Added 2 small bags of shock it
4) Added 1 gallon of the liquid instant conditioner (Natural Chemistry)
I ran the pump for another 6 hours after making these changes. The pump stopped around midnight, and started again around 8am and will run for another 12 hours.
Twenty-four hours later, the pool seems much better but the CYA seems a little low still. These are the test results I did with the TF-100:
FC - 5.0
TC - 5.5
PH - 7.9
TA - 110
CH - Not tested
CYA - 43
Temp: 87
- Do you think I should wait a little more for the CYA to raise or should I try to add more CYA at this point?
- Should I be concerned about phosphates? Do you think the pool store will take the unopened product back? Just asking because I am not familiar with this industry yet.
Thanks for all the support. This website rocks!!!
Thanks for your reply and follow up on this. You are the best. BTW, I changed from Chroline to SWG before the plumming got finished just because of the many reviews I read and also because of your postings.
Anywa, my pool is just a month old and I have had consistent low levels of FC/TC and CYA. On the startup, the PB never did anyting or perhaps not enough on the CYA. Also, for 4 weeks, mistakenly, all I was concerned was FC/TC and PH/TA. That's when it clicked and I realized that I probably had to test CYA as well. Based on that, I did test my water yesterday with the TF-100 and also took a sample to the local store. Here are the results:
FC - 2 (TF-100: 1.0)
TC - 2 (TF-100: 1.5)
PH - 8.2 (TF-100: same)
TA - 90 (TF-100: 110)
CH - 240 (TF-100: 270)
CYA - 30 (TF-100: 28)
Phosphates - 2500
Temp: 86
Needless to say, I bought on the Phosfree idea but have not used it and after what I read here, I realized that I will go back to the store and either return or exchange for something else.
Anyway, I did the followign things yesterday after the the testing:
1) Boosted the Aquapure 1400 (100%) for 24 hours
2) Added 32 OZ of liquid Muriatic Acid
3) Added 2 small bags of shock it
4) Added 1 gallon of the liquid instant conditioner (Natural Chemistry)
I ran the pump for another 6 hours after making these changes. The pump stopped around midnight, and started again around 8am and will run for another 12 hours.
Twenty-four hours later, the pool seems much better but the CYA seems a little low still. These are the test results I did with the TF-100:
FC - 5.0
TC - 5.5
PH - 7.9
TA - 110
CH - Not tested
CYA - 43
Temp: 87
- Do you think I should wait a little more for the CYA to raise or should I try to add more CYA at this point?
- Should I be concerned about phosphates? Do you think the pool store will take the unopened product back? Just asking because I am not familiar with this industry yet.
Thanks for all the support. This website rocks!!!
You have a SWG, your CYA should be much higher than it is. it should be around 70-80 ppm.
Get your TA down to around 70 ppm (see the pool school article on lowering TA)
GET YOUR PH DOWN!!!!!
You might want to read the pool school article on water balance tips for swgs and also this thread
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3663
Get your TA down to around 70 ppm (see the pool school article on lowering TA)
GET YOUR PH DOWN!!!!!
You might want to read the pool school article on water balance tips for swgs and also this thread
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3663
The instant conditioner only takes about an hour to mix in. I would expect one gallon to raise CYA by about 24 in 15,500 gallons. However the test is around +-15, so you are well within the error of the test.
Go ahead and add more CYA (and do the other things waterbear recommended).
Go ahead and add more CYA (and do the other things waterbear recommended).
Went to Menard's(lumber store)walking thru the pool stuff and seen they had stabalizer/conditioner clearanced out from $29.99 to just $6.99 per 12LB bucket..I thought it was a pretty good deal. Question, how long can you store CYA and yes its 100% CYA and how would you store it to get max life out of it?
Granular CYA just needs to be kept in a sealed container and it will be fine for years.
Waterbear/Jasonlion,
I added the muriatic acid yesterday around 6pm as waterbear recommended. I used the calculator and although it told me to add 19oz to get to 70ppm. After that, I added the AquaChem stabilizer (100% CYA granules) that I had bought yesterday at Lowes for $9.50 per each container of 3 LBS. The calculator recommended 56oz to get to 70ppm, which is what I did.
It's been 12 hours since I added the granules CYA. Should I test the Ph/TA/CYA at this point? I know that perhaps I should have tested the PH/TA before I added the CYA but it was too late and I didn't want to miss the window of opportunity. Did I mess it up? Should I test them now or wait until 48 of running the pump/dissolving the CYA to test?
Thanks once again for your great help.
I added the muriatic acid yesterday around 6pm as waterbear recommended. I used the calculator and although it told me to add 19oz to get to 70ppm. After that, I added the AquaChem stabilizer (100% CYA granules) that I had bought yesterday at Lowes for $9.50 per each container of 3 LBS. The calculator recommended 56oz to get to 70ppm, which is what I did.
It's been 12 hours since I added the granules CYA. Should I test the Ph/TA/CYA at this point? I know that perhaps I should have tested the PH/TA before I added the CYA but it was too late and I didn't want to miss the window of opportunity. Did I mess it up? Should I test them now or wait until 48 of running the pump/dissolving the CYA to test?
Thanks once again for your great help.
p_pan said:
This doesn't make sense? Can you clarify what you meant/did?
The CYA will take several days to dissolve fully and register on tests, so wait at least 4-5 days before retesting the CYA.
Just forget about the CYA for a week and test it then. Remember NOT to clean your filter for a week or you will just wash away some of the CYA. Go ahead and test your TA and your pH. If the pH is too low aerate the water to raise it.
Here is a more detailed article on lowering TA than the pool school one that you might find useful:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5341
Here is a more detailed article on lowering TA than the pool school one that you might find useful:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5341
Waterbear,
Thanks for the article. I read it 5 minutes before you posted. One think that I am not totally sure if I have under controls is the Ph/TA testing. I have bought one of those TF-100 and although it has a test kit for both, on the Ph procedure which is done with the blue box (K-1000) states that I should not record the results for FC/Ph since this is just a "reassurance" test. So, I am not sure if I should be using this kit or buying something else to test Ph.
Also, in the stickies, you talk about buying a kit that measures the acid demand, I am not sure if it is part of TF-100 or whether I need to look for something else. Sorry if the answer is already in the pool school but I have not found after going through several postings.
Lastly, for pool ignorants like me, I'd suggest we add information to the stickies explaining when to test the water after each adjustment (FC, Ph, TA, CYA, CH). That's why I could not determine when I was supposed to test my CYA and asked the dumb question above.
Thanks you all for you patience on this. I am having LOTS OF FUN!!!
Thanks for the article. I read it 5 minutes before you posted. One think that I am not totally sure if I have under controls is the Ph/TA testing. I have bought one of those TF-100 and although it has a test kit for both, on the Ph procedure which is done with the blue box (K-1000) states that I should not record the results for FC/Ph since this is just a "reassurance" test. So, I am not sure if I should be using this kit or buying something else to test Ph.
Also, in the stickies, you talk about buying a kit that measures the acid demand, I am not sure if it is part of TF-100 or whether I need to look for something else. Sorry if the answer is already in the pool school but I have not found after going through several postings.
Lastly, for pool ignorants like me, I'd suggest we add information to the stickies explaining when to test the water after each adjustment (FC, Ph, TA, CYA, CH). That's why I could not determine when I was supposed to test my CYA and asked the dumb question above.
Thanks you all for you patience on this. I am having LOTS OF FUN!!!
frustratedpoolmom said:
Thanks FPM, I am sorry the sentence was not written correctly. That means I added 19Oz of MA to get the Total Alkalinity to 70 PPM (recommended by Waterbear). Thanks for the info on CYA testing. I was not aware of how much longer to wait before testing again. Also, was confused about whether it makes any difference if I use dry or liquid CYA. I know it makes difference on how long it takes to dissolve but I assume that it takes the same 4-5 days before I can test for CYA again no matter if it is liquid or dry, correct?
p_pan said:
No, liquid CYA should register correctly within 24 hours. That's partly why it's sooooo expensive!
That liquid stabilizer is very expensive, but that granular stuff is a pain because it takes so long to dissolve. The first time I added stabilizer, I had our waterfall and deck jets on. The stabilizer got sucked into the seperate canister filters for the water features and would not dissolve because we use them rather infrequently. I finally gave up, took the canisters apart and removed the undissolved stabilizer. Not going to be adding stabilizer like that again.
Rob
Rob
Hi There,
After 5 days from when I started reducing the CYA and 4 days after I started lowering T/A via MA/aereation, these are my results today:
FC: 6.0
CC: 0
TC: 6.0
pH: 7.4 (bringing back up via aeration to lower T/A on last time)
T/A: 80 (hope to get to 70 this afternoon)
CYA: 70
Temperature: 82
SWG set to 50% for the past 48 hours after I boosted for 24 hours.
I think I am covered on the T/A and pH part since I am almost getting there. My concern is in regards the FC. It's been at 5.5 or 6.0 for the past 3 days. The taste of the water has a little chlorine in it. My daughter complained that it was better when it was only salt. Does FC higher than 5.0 can create any problems? I see the SWG manufacturer's manual saying that it should be set between 1-3ppm to avoid corrosion of pool metals. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also, if you see anything wrong with my test results or have any advice, please go ahead and
Thanks.
After 5 days from when I started reducing the CYA and 4 days after I started lowering T/A via MA/aereation, these are my results today:
FC: 6.0
CC: 0
TC: 6.0
pH: 7.4 (bringing back up via aeration to lower T/A on last time)
T/A: 80 (hope to get to 70 this afternoon)
CYA: 70
Temperature: 82
SWG set to 50% for the past 48 hours after I boosted for 24 hours.
I think I am covered on the T/A and pH part since I am almost getting there. My concern is in regards the FC. It's been at 5.5 or 6.0 for the past 3 days. The taste of the water has a little chlorine in it. My daughter complained that it was better when it was only salt. Does FC higher than 5.0 can create any problems? I see the SWG manufacturer's manual saying that it should be set between 1-3ppm to avoid corrosion of pool metals. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Also, if you see anything wrong with my test results or have any advice, please go ahead and
Thanks.
It is normal for your FC to rise as the CYA dissovles. Just turn your generator output down a bit and tryt maintian the FC around 4 ppm. It can take a week for the Fc to move downward and stabilzier so have some patience. Once you get it adjusted it's really pretty much trouble free.
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