we are still new to this pool testing thing. we had only been testing chlorine and ph levels which seemed to be fine. We had a cloudy pool a few weeks ago. We shocked it with our IntelliChlor Salt Generator, then fine the next day. We seem to lose Chlorine frequently-our generator is running at about 40%. I had levels checked at Leslie's and CYA is 0, FAC is 0, TAC is 0, ph 7.8, TA 100, salt levels okay. Leslie's said chlorine is fine, but we needed stabilizer. Stabilizer was supposedly added at start up by our pool company. Now I'm afraid to add more. Give me some advice please.
stabilizer and salt water generator pool
- Thread starter new-pool-lady*
- Start date
My first advice would be to get your own test kit, either a K-2006 or a TF-100, read about them here:
category/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison
It will allow you total control over your pool and you'll feel more confident about your test results.
If it's been a few weeks since the pool company added stabilizer or was supposed to, it would have shown up on tests. So it's possible they didn't add it at all, or didn't add enough....but you need to get some in there sooner rather than later....
For an SWG the recommended range is 60-80, but I'd refer you to your manufacturer's warranty to see if it gives a recommended level. Use the pool calculator for dosing recommendations, but I would shoot for a target of 50ppm and then adjust it later if its still too low. It takes about a week for stabilizer to dissolve and register in tests, so don't clean or backwash your filter during that time. Do you know how to add it to your pool? Are you familiar with the Pool Calculator?
It's better to shock your pool with liquid chlorine rather than using your SWG, you can shorten the cell life that way...
Your TA is high, as is your ph. I would recommend read the article about Water Balance for SWG and Recommended Levels in Pool School.
Welcome to TFP, hope this helps....
category/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison
It will allow you total control over your pool and you'll feel more confident about your test results.
If it's been a few weeks since the pool company added stabilizer or was supposed to, it would have shown up on tests. So it's possible they didn't add it at all, or didn't add enough....but you need to get some in there sooner rather than later....
For an SWG the recommended range is 60-80, but I'd refer you to your manufacturer's warranty to see if it gives a recommended level. Use the pool calculator for dosing recommendations, but I would shoot for a target of 50ppm and then adjust it later if its still too low. It takes about a week for stabilizer to dissolve and register in tests, so don't clean or backwash your filter during that time. Do you know how to add it to your pool? Are you familiar with the Pool Calculator?
It's better to shock your pool with liquid chlorine rather than using your SWG, you can shorten the cell life that way...
Your TA is high, as is your ph. I would recommend read the article about Water Balance for SWG and Recommended Levels in Pool School.
Welcome to TFP, hope this helps....
yes, we will add the stabilizer, dissolved in water first, and add through skimmer, slowly.. i'll buy the kit and go from there. Leslie's said our chlorine level was fine, but if fine, why FAC and TAC at 0 ?? maybe the SWG cell is bad...it's our 3rd summer using it..we've always shocked with the SWG as our pool company told us to do. We will add Muriatic acid to lower the ph and TA. Correct? Thanks for help and I'm sure I'll be back on here!!
new-pool-lady* said:
Sounds like you are getting a feel for things, why would Leslie's say yoru chlorine level was fine if it's 0? That doesn't make sense does it?. :? You need to add some chlorine to prevent an algae bloom, get enough in there to maintain your FC at 2 until you can get some CYA in. What color is your pool now, is the water cloudy? If so you should probably shock, up to FC of 10ppm, with liquid chlorine.
I don't know alot about SWG or how to know if it's bad. But I do recall some expert advice on here that shocking with the SWG can wear it out and shorten the life of the cell, so it's better to use liquid chlorine for shocking. Yes, Muratic Acid will lower ph/ta. It's still in range, but with an SWG, when it begins to work, you will start to see your PH drift up when your TA is a tad high like yours, it's not super out of whack so it's not urgent or anything, especially if the SWG isn't working anyway. So if you follow the instructions for lowering TA, in Pool School, you should see improvement there. If high PH has been a recurring issue for you that could be causing problems with the SWG. Can you look inside and see if you see any signs of scaling?
So focus first on chlorine, and stabilizer, while you try to figure out what's happening with the SWG.
Good luck, glad to help, hope I did!
We added stabilizer. I plan on adding chlorine bleach tonight. Our pool has NOT looked anything but clear except for the milky/cloudy incident a couple of weeks ago. We had no scaling buildup anywhere to be seen, altho we did clean the SWG cells with Muriatic acid (actually our pool company did that). The vinyl liner has not felt slippery or slimey and up til now, we thought we were doing things right. Our ph/TA ALWAYS seems to go up. We seem to always have to add acid, altho we have had a tremedous amount of rain and have had to drain out water numerous times. Thank you. Hopefully, I'm on the right track now.
Since the pool is not cloudy, should I still add the bleach? When I measure it using my test kit, it shows that we have chlorine but it doesn't seem to last a long time which I guess would make perfect sense if they tested it and showed the other free and total chlorine at 0. I WILL order a better test kit!
new-pool-lady* said:
If it's not cloudy, then just raise the FC to 2ppm and see if that helps, you'll have to do that each night until the CYA starts to register, then you rminimum target will change slightly, and you'll find you have to add less bleach each night. Hopefully your SWG will get figured out soon, and then adding bleach won't be a regular thing! Good idea- on the test kit! I highly recommend the TF-100...
I just wanted to add 2 things.
Can you update your signature (go to your user control panel and update your profile) to include your pool specs and equipment. That way posters will find your details easier.
Lastly, I just noticed you don't show a CH number? Didn't Leslie's test for that? Since I'm not sure what kind of pool you have.
High PH and High CH can lead to cloudy water....so let's find out what your reading is, see if that's part of the problem or rule it out.
Thanks!
Can you update your signature (go to your user control panel and update your profile) to include your pool specs and equipment. That way posters will find your details easier.
Lastly, I just noticed you don't show a CH number? Didn't Leslie's test for that? Since I'm not sure what kind of pool you have.
High PH and High CH can lead to cloudy water....so let's find out what your reading is, see if that's part of the problem or rule it out.
Thanks!
new-pool-lady* == welcome to TFP!!
As Dave (duraliegh) advocates : 9 times out of 10 cloudy water is the result of not enough chlorine in the pool! Get some more bleach in there STAT!
Also consider becoming a lifetime member and ordering the TF Testkit (in my sig) -- if you become a lifetime member you get $10 off the test kit
:-D
Regardless as to whether you become a lifer or buy the test kit, we will be here to help you with your pool!!!
As Dave (duraliegh) advocates : 9 times out of 10 cloudy water is the result of not enough chlorine in the pool! Get some more bleach in there STAT!
Also consider becoming a lifetime member and ordering the TF Testkit (in my sig) -- if you become a lifetime member you get $10 off the test kit
:-D Regardless as to whether you become a lifer or buy the test kit, we will be here to help you with your pool!!!
NPL,
YOu should be reading all the articles in "pool school" above. In particular you need to understand the function of chlorine in your pool and how stabilizer assists the chlorine.
Secondly, how much stabilizer did you add and why did you add that much?
Lastly, please post another current set of test reults and we'll all help get you on the right track.
YOu should be reading all the articles in "pool school" above. In particular you need to understand the function of chlorine in your pool and how stabilizer assists the chlorine.
Secondly, how much stabilizer did you add and why did you add that much?
Lastly, please post another current set of test reults and we'll all help get you on the right track.
I found you!! Welcome to TFP.
Like I told you this morning..face to face....get some bleach in there STAT!! 8) When you get your test kit check your FC @ sundown then again the next morning....keep adding bleach until your FC holds overnight. Turn off your SWG for the overnight test. If your FC decreases overnight then you have algae and you need to keep shocking with bleach based on your CYA level from the chlorine/CYA chart in the Pool School link.
Get your CYA, pH and TA in range for a SWG. Once your FC holds overnight then turn your SWG on and check your FC daily and if it continues to decrease then your SWG is malfunctioning.
See you soon,
Like I told you this morning..face to face....get some bleach in there STAT!! 8) When you get your test kit check your FC @ sundown then again the next morning....keep adding bleach until your FC holds overnight. Turn off your SWG for the overnight test. If your FC decreases overnight then you have algae and you need to keep shocking with bleach based on your CYA level from the chlorine/CYA chart in the Pool School link.
Get your CYA, pH and TA in range for a SWG. Once your FC holds overnight then turn your SWG on and check your FC daily and if it continues to decrease then your SWG is malfunctioning.
See you soon,