Help to understand if my SWG is working correctly

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Hello. I need some help to understand if my SWG is working correctly. My FC and TC are decreasing constantly to the point I have to shock the pool almost daily to increase ORP. I run the pool at 88F and the chemistry otherwise is perfect. I use pool clarifiers weekly, enzyme and phosphate removers and the water is beautifully clear. My issue is that I have to maintain it daily and I'm not getting any value from my SWG. The brand is Pentair intellichlor. It has been replaced almost yearly by my pool contractor and it's a newer system as the pool is only on its third season. The salt level is at 3400ppm and I run it with an intellichem that keeps a nice ph balance. Filters and flow are perfect. I run the pump 24 hours a day. I checked my FC and TC right after the SWG and I only get 0.5 FC and 1TC. It's running at 100%. In my perception this is the problem. If I'm trying to get to 5-5 FC-TC I assume I shall get those readiness right at the SWG. So here are my questions.

1. What are the FC and TC values expected out of SWG treated flow?
2. What is the typical percentage range they shall be running? Mine is 100%
3. Do you have other tips or recommendations?


I have a 15-18k gals gunite inground pool. I'm In MI. I'm expecting the contractor to open my chlorinator this week and see if it needs cleaning but I gave up on this brand as it has been replaced yearly since the first season

Thank you for your feedback.

 

[SunnyOptimism]

Hello. I need some help to understand if my SWG is working correctly. My FC and TC are decreasing constantly to the point I have to shock the pool almost daily to increase ORP. I run the pool at 88F and the chemistry otherwise is perfect. I use pool clarifiers weekly, enzyme and phosphate removers and the water is beautifully clear. My issue is that I have to maintain it daily and I'm not getting any value from my SWG. The brand is Pentair intellichlor. It has been replaced almost yearly by my pool contractor and it's a newer system as the pool is only on its third season. The salt level is at 3400ppm and I run it with an intellichem that keeps a nice ph balance. Filters and flow are perfect. I run the pump 24 hours a day. I checked my FC and TC right after the SWG and I only get 0.5 FC and 1TC. It's running at 100%. In my perception this is the problem. If I'm trying to get to 5-5 FC-TC I assume I shall get those readiness right at the SWG. So here are my questions.

1. What are the FC and TC values expected out of SWG treated flow?
2. What is the typical percentage range they shall be running? Mine is 100%
3. Do you have other tips or recommendations?


I have a 15-18k gals gunite inground pool. I'm In MI. I'm expecting the contractor to open my chlorinator this week and see if it needs cleaning but I gave up on this brand as it has been replaced yearly since the first season

Thank you for your feedback.

Hi David , the experts will be along shortly to help (unless they already have...i see no replies yet to your post)

I have an Pentair IC-40 and it works beautifully...so what you're describing (100% cell ON, yearly cell changes, low FC) sounds way off. DO you have an IC-20 or an IC-40? IC-20's are only good up to 20k gallons. IC40's go from 20k-40k. I have a 17k gal pool and I use a IC40.

So here's the deal on this site (I'm a newbie too) and what people are going to tell you -

1. STOP using all those fancy chemicals for phosphates, etc. They are a waste of money at a minimum and potentially damaging to your pool equipment if not used correctly (phosphate reducers can, in rare instances, damage or plug up your filter)

2. All you need to keep your pool chemistry working right is a form of liquid chlorine (bleach or contractor-grade liquid chlorine) for getting the FC up to shock levels, muriatic acid and baking soda.

3. You need to buy a good testkit (either a Taylor K-2006 ot a TFTestkit TF-100) and you need to do your own water testing for the following parameters - FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, Salt and CYA. You need to post these results in order for anyone to help you.

Get a test kit and post some results from it. The experts here can help!

 

[JasonLion]

Please post a complete set of water test results. You problem is almost certainly being caused by the chemistry being out of balance. But without numbers we can't tell one way or the other.

You should ignore ORP. It is distracting at best and often can be seriously misleading. Disable ORP control on the IntelliChem and switch to simple percentage based control of the IntelliChlor (if you haven't already).

Clarifier, enzymes and phosphate removers are almost entirely a waste of money. None of them are needed is you are taking proper care of your pool.

 

[gatorbrit]

In addition to the full test results - are you quite sure that all the lights that should be on on the IC 40 are on? For example, if the flow rate is too low, the IC40 will shut off.