Repairing AquaPure 1400

Phil1

0
Jun 30, 2014
14
Southern, CA
We have an inground pool built in 2006... I've never had a pool before so I'm not very experienced with the equipment and maintenance. Unfortunately, the company we hired to build the pool decided they no longer wanted to be in business and disappeared before the pool was completed. So I had to finish some of the equipment installation and never got any instructions on maintenance/operation.

My present problem is the AquaPure 1400 SWG is giving error codes that indicate the flow/salinity/temperature sensor is not working. Back in 2007 we had the unit's "back pcb" replaced under warranty after a substantial gap in the unit's cover let rain inside. The local dealer who did that job said Jandy was working on a new cover design, but we never heard anything back on that, and have been using tape to cover the gap meanwhile. Other than the 2007 pcb replacement, the unit has been working fine until now, with just an occasional cleaning of the above-mentioned sensor.

The cell is still the original one from 2006, so it'll probably need replacing soon. As I understand it, that "2-port" cell is no longer available, and will have to be replaced with a "3-port" cell that uses a different sensor. I'm reluctant to replace the existing sensor if it'll just have to be replaced again when the cell needs to be replaced. Therefore, I'm thinking of replacing both the cell and the sensor at this time.

However... there seems to be conflicting information on replacing the older 2-port cell with the new 3-port cell. Some descriptions say you just remove the old cell (using the unions) and the new cell fits right in (and you just leave the old sensor there but unused). Others say either the new cell is larger or that the new unions don't fit with the old unions, and either way you need to cut the PVC pipes (they are 2-inch) and install new unions. But there's no room in the pipes to do that. The pipe from the heater goes to an elbow, which connects to a T that the old sensor screws into, then a union, the old cell, another union, and an elbow... with maybe 1/16" of pipe showing between each item.

There's also a completely new product, the AquaPure Ei, but it appears to be a step down from the 1400. We have the AquaLink RS controller, and with the 1400 the salt level is displayed but the Ei doesn't have that feature. Plus the Ei has a goofy "saddle"-style installation rather than just being plumbed in... although I suppose that would fit in our existing plumbing if one replaced the old cell with a length of 2-inch PVC with unions (which Zodiac sells to fit an existing Goldline SWG, but not for people who have Zodiac's own AquaPure 700 or 1400!).

So... I'm thinking of ordering the 3-port cell kit (a cell, a sensor, and two unions), and if it fits in place of the old cell that'll be good. If not, it appears I'd need to remove the pipes that run from the heater (a Pentair MiniMax) to the old sensor/cell and make a new one the correct length. Which means I'd need half of a 2-inch union to mate with the heater... is that something I'd be able to get (I'm wondering if unions are interchangeable, since apparently the union on the 2-port cell isn't always compatible with the one on the 3-port cell)?
 
Welcome to TFP!

Since you have Jandy automation I would install the new 1400 3-port cell and you will have to do some plumbing. I'm not sure how much is involved to plumb in the new cell but if you are handy working with PVC it should be fairly easy to switch it over.
 
So if I need to rebuild the pipe from the heater output to the SWG cell input, how do I get the union I'd need for the new pipe to attach to the Pentair heater? Can I just buy a 2-inch PVC union at Home Depot, or is it a Pentair-specific part?

Also, the pipe on the other side of the cell would have to be modified as well. Right now the pipe comes straight up from the ground, one piece of pipe ends and another begins (not with a coupling, but using the flared end of one pipe), there's an elbow, and then the union for the cell. I'd have to cut the vertical section of the pipe so as to redo the elbow and (new) union. I assume I should cut that low enough to eliminate the pipe-to-pipe splice? I'm thinking I should attach the new pipe to the one coming up from the ground using a union so it would never have to be cut again. I assume just any union (e.g., one from Home Depot) will work here... or is there some reason to use something special? (Again, this question stems from my lack of knowledge about unions... are the halves all interchangeable, do they have different flow rates?) And the pipes are all painted (apparently that's a code requirement here for pipes exposed to sunlight). Is that a problem for gluing a union on?
 
You will need to sand the paint off before making a new glue joint to old pipe. This is fairly easy to do.

Unions are not interchangeable. You need to find a match for the one you are replacing. Pentair sells half unions for their equipment. There are various ones, search based on the model number of the heater.

Personally, I think people go a little crazy with unions, adding way too many. Most people seem to disagree with me however.
 
ping & JasonLion, thanks for the help! I will go with the PCL1400 and order the correct half-union (found the part number in the heater's manual). Which leads me to another question, about the pump, but I'll post that in the appropriate place.

So unions on equipment are not interchangeable, but how about ones for schedule-40 pipe? If I put a union on that 2-inch PVC pipe coming out of the ground (from Home Depot for example), and then later have to change something, at that "later" time I'd need to buy a union that would mate with the one I put on the pipe. Would I be able to?
 
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