AG pool going up next week- need water care advice

[spylab]

I want to get off to the best start possible, no pool or water yet I looked up the most recent water report for my city and will be starting with:
PH 8.0 to 8.4
TA 93 to 120
Calcium 97 to 110 ppm

I know I will need to add the PH Down to get between 7.2 and 7.4 (level the ionizer says is optimal for it)
The ioziner say to run 4-6 hours a day but is designed for a 10,000 gallon pool, mine is just over half that so I will play around to keep copper at the recommended 0.3 to 0.5 ppm. I plan to run the pump longer and will be switching to a two speed pump as soon as it arrives.

Please advise about the chlorine. They sent Pooline Super Dichlor 56 which I am assuming is shock? They also sent a couple of tablets (no label or container). When I purchased the pool they said all I needed to do is add 1 tbsp of shock once a week and that is it. The ionizer says to use a floater basket with 2-3 dichlo tablets to keep the chlorine level at 0.5 ppm. I had to look up "dichlo"…I have no idea if that is what those tablets I have are or not. I really am very new to all of this!!

I am open to how I obtain clean, clear, safe water. Daily swimmers will include myself and my Labrador Retriever, weekly swimmers will include my son, daughter-in-law, and two year old grandson. I have a severe immune deficiency but am most susceptible to air-born illness. I appreciate all advice on the best way to keep my pool in the best shape from the beginning.

 

[northrn]

Welcome!

My advice is to start with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry followed by learning more about the language. Pay special attention to the "copper" section. After that, I would do a search on the forums for "copper ion" systems and see what other's have to say who have had them.

The best way to take control of your pool is reliable testing. Test strips are not reliable. There are a few choices but the TF-100 (link in my signature) is a very easy to use kit. Order now because it will take a few days to arrive.

 

[spylab]

Thank you for your response. I have scanned and get the general idea that copper/silver ionizers are generally frowned upon. Often it seems to be in the context of replacing chlorine. I do not expect to eliminate chlorine but do want to know if anyone can tell me if I follow the instructions with the system and keep chlorine at 0.5 ppm is that enough to provide the quicker kill time to pathogens that would not be killed by the ionizer?

I have not hooked the system up yet and am trying to decide if I should just return it. They sell a SWG for the same price I paid for this.

I am continuing to read but sometimes the arguments quickly go past my experience level. I also noticed many are from several years ago and had wondered if technology has changed.

Was about to order the test kit when I noticed it had add on options. If I go with a SWG, what add-ons would I need for the TF Test Kit? I noticed there are a couple of different salt test add-ons and also do not know if I need the Borate add on.