Taylor 1000 kit (personal) issues

[Cylon]

Am I the only one who hates the Taylor 1000 kit? The reason why I hate it, is because I have a real hard time matching the color after I put in the drops. I have tried numerous times and I still don't have a good feeling about my results.

For FC, I use the TF kit with the reagents, probably more expensive but I feel much more confident with the results. I use it twice a day.

But for pH, I am really struggling. Is there another way to test pH? Are those test strips accurate for pH?

I think I may be color blind after this.

 

[bridgman]

I find the comparator in the K-2006 kit really good for colour matching on pH. The comparator on all the other kits I have seen never seems to have colours which match the test solution.

Not sure if the 1000 kit uses the same comparator, guessing it does not.

Then again, I'm really bad with colour matching. I even have better luck with "varying amounts of purple" test strips for FC than I do with the OTO test when all I'm looking for is "no FC, some FC, lots of FC" indication. For everything else, the FAS/DPD test is so much easier...

... and it's still cheaper than the "computerized" kits

 

[Cylon]

How about those electronic pH testers that you dip in the water? Anyone have any success with those?

 

[jblizzle]

Have you ever used the acid demand with they pH test? It can really help you learn to recognize colors that match. Go to the pool store and get a bottle of R-0015 and add it one drop at a time to the pH test and observe the various colors.

 

[Beens]

I have the one that comes with the TF-100 not sure if it's the same but I was almost wondering if I was going crazy because mine was just always the same. I always guessed "between 7.5 and 7.8" because it was sort of a salmon pinkish orange color. Definitely orange but with a hint of pink.

I finally got to see a difference yesterday. I needed to bump my CYA up a little so I have had 2 tabs floating in the pool for almost a week and I guess they actually brought my pH down a little (just like Pool Math said!) because when I checked yesterday I had that perfect 7.2 orange color. It's literally the first time I've seen a different color since...ever!

In the end I figure as long as I'm not yellow or bright pink I'm probably safe. I could be wrong about that! I'm not aiming for anything specific for any other reasons so it seems like my logic is sound... lol

Someone feel free to tell me if it's not!

 

[JohnT]

Try adding an extra drop of reagent to the vial. It doesn't change the reading much, but makes the color more closely match the comparator.

Remember you are trying to match the yellow/orange/red/purple-ness of the sample and not the actual exact shade on the vial. You want it red, without any orange or purple tinge to it. Some people aren't as sensitive to colors as others, so it can be difficult.

Stick with it. After a few years, I can pretty well tell what my pH is when the first drop of reagent hits the sample. It gets easier with practice.

 

[JohnH]

Have you ever used the acid demand with they pH test? It can really help you learn to recognize colors that match. Go to the pool store and get a bottle of R-0015 and add it one drop at a time to the pH test and observe the various colors.

Hey Jason,
I don't see R-0015 listed on TFTestkit?
Thanks, john

 

[jblizzle]

Hey Jason,
I don't see R-0015 listed on TFTestkit?
Thanks, john

Not surprised since the k1000 that comes with the TF-100 does not include it. And the K2006 uses a different reagent I think. {EDIT: The K-2006 uses R-0005 due to the larger water sample size}

Should only be a couple bucks locally.

 

[Cylon]

Have you ever used the acid demand with they pH test? It can really help you learn to recognize colors that match. Go to the pool store and get a bottle of R-0015 and add it one drop at a time to the pH test and observe the various colors.

Add the normal red 5 drops then add this?

 

[jblizzle]

Right, you add the normal 5 drops. Then you can add the acid demand one drop at a time and the color will change. I am suggesting it so that you can play with it and get a feel for the range of colors ... they really are quite different when you see them.

The acid demand test has a table (which you will not have just buying the reagent) and based on the number of drops you add to get to the desired pH, it would tell you how much acid to add, BUT, it makes assumptions of the TA level and PoolMath is generally more accurate.

EDIT: Leslies lists the R-0015 for $5.79 (more than I expected). I happened to find some in a VERY old Leslie's Complete test kit that I had in a closet ... still seems to work.

 

[Isaac-1]

There was also a question about electronic pH tester, the short answer is that they do work, sort of, the more expensive ones tend to work better than the cheap ones, but all require fairly frequent calibration using special calibration fluid, and care in handling. This makes them great for lab environments where pH tests need to be done many times per day, but less so for a home pool where they may be used only a few times per week.

Ike

 

[mickey4paws]

I also have a hard time reading the PH results. I have found them easier to read when I hold a piece of white paper (or paper towel) a couple inches behind the sample.

 

[jblizzle]

The blue sky makes a good background as well.

 

[gx22]

I use AquaChek TruTest Digital Test Strip Reader for FC and pH readings. The reader reads test strip color and shows FC, pH and TA readings on a digital display. FC and pH are close to Taylor's. TA measures too high.

 

[jblizzle]

I use AquaChek TruTest Digital Test Strip Reader for FC and pH readings. The reader reads test strip color and shows FC, pH and TA readings on a digital display. FC and pH are close to Taylor's. TA measures too high.

We do not recommend test strips as being unreliable.
We do not recommend digital testers as they too are unpredictable and require calibration.
... 2 strikes against that product