Hayward H350 heater panel not lighting

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B

binyamingavriel

0
Jul 2, 2013
74
Wesley Hills, NY
Pool Size
39000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello,
I received a Hayward H350 heater (used) and had my pool guy hook it up. The problem is that the control panel does not light up and we cannot turn on the heater. He tells me he tested and there is power going to the inside of the heater (I don't know exactly where he checked). Of note this heater had been hooked up to a 240V source and I have 120V; he switched this at the beginning of the hook up.
I realize there are a lot of variables at play here, but if anybody has any ideas as to where to look I'd appreciate it. If this can be solved without replacing the control unit that would certainly help.
Thanks,
Ben
 
If this is an older H350 then it's just a matter if using the correct wires at the transformer. If this is a newer FD, then you have a plug that one end is 120 and the other is 240. Use the 120 plug for your hook up.
 
Ok. So when I got home today I opened the panel and I think the voltage is the issue but just want to check. Is there a way I can post a picture here or can someone direct me to a good photo online (not the wiring diagram but an actual photo)?
Thanks
 
That is the transformer and it only steps down the voltage to 24v. You need to look under the metal cover to the right of the transformer. That is where the wiring from the breaker terminates. Inside there you will see the connection for either 120 or 240.
 
Sorry for the delay. It looked to be like the control board had a burned out resistor, so I replaced the board. Still didn't work so I replaced the transformer as well, as it looked like it was also burned out. Now the standby light finally comes on, but I can't get it out of standby. LCD display is blank, and I tried all buttons (mode, up, down) for various lengths of time and combinations with no luck.
 
So you replaced just the board or was it the entire keypad and board? If just the board, bad keypad probably. No real way to troubleshoot that other than replace it and see what happens.
 

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Look on the board and you will see a set of two white dip switches. What are the positions of those switches? If they don't match up to the old part you took off, then you need to set them in the same position as the old one was. Now if they are in the same position then we are back to square one. Was this part you purchased brand new or a used one from ebay or some place.?
 
Dip switches are same as original. I also tried the other way just to check but no go. Parts purchased new. I suppose it's possible I got a bad board or keypad, but not my guess as they were brand new. I appreciate all the help.
Is it possible that this is still a voltage issue? The replacement transformer had a sticker on the outside saying 240V, although the word on the inside were labeled like the original (120/240) and were wired correctly.
 
It doesn't sound like a transformer issue. Just for the heck of it remove the back cover on the new board enclosure and make sure the ribbon cable from the keypad is connected.
 
So I opened it up and guess what? The cable from the keypad was misaligned and only connected to 3 of the 4 pins. Once I fixed that the keypad and display work, now I just have to check the error code (alternating lo and sf). Does that combo mean a faulty temp sensor, or must I do further tests to confirm?
 
LO is either not enough water flow or the pressure switch is bad. f5 is probably SF, sensor failure. This would be the temperature sensor located on the header where the water inlet/outlet is.
 
Sorry for the typo, I did mean SF. I looked up the troubleshooting chart in the manual and I have a couple of questions.
1. Is the temperature sensor the same thing as the thermistor? Or maybe the flow control thermostat? The parts list and diagram does not list temperature sensor.
2. Under LO code there are four possible faults listed - water pressure switch, automatic temperature limiter switch, manual temperature limiter switch, and limit switch. Is the water pressure switch the same as the pressure switch assembly? Pressure switch adapter?
3. What is the limit switch? The only similarly named parts listed are the temperature limiters kit, hi-limit 135 degree F, and Immersion hi-limit Rear Header 160 Degrees HM
Thanks again
 

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