HELP! I am new and have a green swamp in a brand new pool

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M

msdodge

0
Apr 5, 2014
22
Nebraska
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Sorry, I am clueless right now. I had a contractor install an above ground pool bought from Doheny's. It took them 3 weeks to figure out how to install it and about 2 feet of water sat there for a while, probably 2 weeks. They finally got the pump in and it started yesterday. We have 10,000 gallons of green water now. I have used spring algaecide (from Doheny's) and then also algaecide plus yesterday. My chemistry today:
FC = 3 (was a 5 yesterday)
CH = 375
TA = 250
PH = 7.8
Stablilizer = 30-50
I am using both test strips and a test kit (TF100? I think its called)
I can see the bottom of the pool, but it is green. My DE filter has been running since yesterday, but this morning the pump had stopped overnight and i had to "regenerate" it. (by the way - is there a power button or is turning pump off only done by unplugging it? - Hayward DE pump).

The contractor said there is no way to empty water without getting a sump pump? Is my best option to empty this pool and start over?
 
Welcome to TFP!

First thing is to bring PH down to 7.2.

Algaecide is almost completely ineffective against an active algae bloom. Algaecide is much more effective at preventing algae starting from clean.

You want to SLAM the pool, see the instructions in the How To section of Pool School.

With a DE filter and some attention you can have this all cleaned up in a few days.
 
msdodge said:
The test kit is the one that everyone here recommends. I was able to confirm all the numbers from the strip with the actual tests.
Click to expand...
The problem is, CYA 30-50 is pretty vague.

If you lower the pH to 7.2 and then raise the FC up to shock level for your CYA (What is it? 12? or 20? :scratch:) and keep maintaining it at shock level for your CYA, it will clear up in a few days. Even a dark, murky swamp filled with rotting leaves can usually be crystal clear in two weeks. If yours is just greenish, it won't take that long. Hopefully, none of the green tint is from copper-based algaecides.

Complete instructions are here: Shock Level And Maintain
 
Thank you for your quick replies. Here is where I am at...the green has gotten lighter and the water is clearer. I had used Spring Algaecide which has Alkyl dimehthyl benzyl ammonium chloride (9.96%) and Daikyl methyl benzyl ammonium chloride (.04%). So should I still SLAM it?

To SLAM, yesterday I could NOT get a CYA reading. I followed the instructions, filled the bottle to the bottom of the label with pool water then added R0013. nothing happened, it remained completely clear. I also do not have liquid chlorine, can I use shock that is 73% calcium hypochlorite.

Also, the bottom of my pool is wrinkled...is this fixable? Is it supposed to be like that? I am frustrated. There is also a lot of dirt on the bottom. I have a triangle head for a vacuum? that came with the pool. It attaches to the pole and has brushes on the bottom...not sure how this vacuums? Then I bought an automatic vacuum that is in the box still because it says don't use when there is algae.

Sorry for all these questions, I just really know nothing about a pool and kind of feeling on my own here. Thank you for your help!!

And the test kit is TF100.
 
msdodge said:
Thank you for your quick replies. Here is where I am at...the green has gotten lighter and the water is clearer. I had used Spring Algaecide which has Alkyl dimehthyl benzyl ammonium chloride (9.96%) and Daikyl methyl benzyl ammonium chloride (.04%). So should I still SLAM it?
Click to expand...
Yes. Obviously, the algaecide didn't kill it.

To SLAM, yesterday I could NOT get a CYA reading. I followed the instructions, filled the bottle to the bottom of the label with pool water then added R0013. nothing happened, it remained completely clear. I also do not have liquid chlorine, can I use shock that is 73% calcium hypochlorite.
Click to expand...
Then your CYA is below 20, possibly zero if nobody had added any, so shock level will be 10 unless you raise the CYA level somehow. You need to be quite sure about the CYA level. It's critical to know when choosing the appropriate FC level. You've reported 30 to 50 and now nothing. You may want to watch this video to see how to do the CYA test properly.

You don't want to use Cal-hypo shock. Your CH level is already quite high, and you're making it worse by using Cal-hypo. You don't want to get Calcium Scale. The best product for you to use is liquid chlorine aka bleach.

Also, the bottom of my pool is wrinkled...is this fixable? Is it supposed to be like that? I am frustrated. There is also a lot of dirt on the bottom. I have a triangle head for a vacuum? that came with the pool. It attaches to the pole and has brushes on the bottom...not sure how this vacuums? Then I bought an automatic vacuum that is in the box still because it says don't use when there is algae.

Sorry for all these questions, I just really know nothing about a pool and kind of feeling on my own here. Thank you for your help!!

And the test kit is TF100.
Click to expand...
No, the bottom should not be wrinkled. The installer messed up. You won't be able to fix it with all that water in it. The vacuum, I don't know about. I don't have that type of pool or vacuum.
 
Thank you Richard320. I started to SLAM with bleach and that killed the algae...so I am very thankful. I didn't finish the SLAM because I am in discussion with the contractor on fixing the wrinkles, so being that water might be removed I am not going to fix the water all the way. I am on hold now for this :(
 
The triangle vacuum head sounds similar to mine. You just attach it to the pole and then attach a vacuum hose to the head and usually to a vacuum attachment on the skimmer.

Here's mine in the pool but without the hose attached. I was just using it to show how clear my water was. :)



Since I just have an intex pool I don't have the normal skimmer attachment that you should have. It's a piece that goes in the skimmer that allows you to attach a hose to it. The water will suck from the skimmer through the hose to the vacuum head.

Needless to say it's a manual vacuum so you'll push it around about like you would in the house.

The automatic one will be more fun! I don't have one but I wish I did!

Of course you should definitely get that wrinkle thing figured out with the pool installers if you think you might be having to drain and start over. I hope it turns out well for you!
 

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