Just Can't Figure It Out

[WOLLAM]

Just can't figure this out this pool and just found your site. I think there may be more than one issue, but to me they seem related. Since I am not too familiar with posting procedures, please tell me if I need to post separate questions. Thank you. So, here we go.

Recently took over pool maintenance responsibility from landlord. Maintenance/care is mine; repairs, etc. are his. Pump just went out after 1.5 years. Took him just under 3 weeks to replace (this past Saturday) with a new pump. During that time I added several gallons of chlorine over the course of the 3 weeks. By the time the pump was installed, the spa was green, the pool was hazy; I could see the bottom but it was not clear. As per my pool store's (Pinch-A-Penny) recommendation I added chlorine and had the water tested the following day, Sunday. Test results:

Total Chlorine 5.0
Free Chlorine 5.0
pH 7.2
Base Demand 1.0
Total Alkalinity 100
Calcium Hardness 300
Stabilizer 80

Store's test recommendation was to add 5.7 oz of Suncoast pH Plus. Clerk also suggested to add algaecide 50% at that time as well. The next day, Monday, pool seemed only incrementally better. Still not crystal clear. The pump had been running 24 hours a day, from installation Saturday am until Monday night 7:30pm.

The other issue, and I think this contributes to the lack of clarity in the pool, is that I believe the pump may not be adequate for the poor circulation/design of the pool. With the new pump running and all three valves open (vacuum, drain, skimmer) I get minimal suction from the vacuum. With drain and skimmer closed it still does seem as strong as I think it should be.

Along with circulation/intake of water, I believe the return of water is lacking as well. With the return split between spa & pool, water flows from spa to pool with no "action". What I man by that is you are unable to tell if it flowing unless you are standing close to the spa. Also, when the return is split, the force of the main return into the pool seems to be low. When new pump was first installed you could actually see a current/flow in the pool when standing on the far side of the pool. When I move the return valve to flow ONLY to the pool the increase is noticeable but not substantial. The force of the return of the two smaller returns remained minimal regardless of the valve position.

Here are my questions. What can be done to get the pool to crystal clear status? Is the proper equipment being used for this pool? If yes, does my description of circulation, intake & return show the pool to be operating as it should? If no, what adjustments need to be made? Is it possible the plumbing is not functioning properly due to a blockage or something?

Many thanks to all of you in advance, for any and all assistance and recommendations. Please do not hesitate to tell me if I have posted too much and need to re-post separate questions/requests. Thanks again.

WOLLAM
ps - I have several pictures can't seem to get them uploaded. any help would be appreciated as well.

 

[JasonLion]

With CYA at 80 you want FC between 6 and 11 for normal operation and far higher if you might have algae.

The best thing you can do at this point is to get your own top quality test kit. Reliable test results are the key to taking care of the pool.

Have you cleaned the filter recently?

 

[WOLLAM]

Filter was cleaned with hose just prior to new pump, and once since installation.

Any recommendations for test kit? Would kit be needed if the store does their testing for free? Just curious.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Any recommendations for test kit? Would kit be needed if the store does their testing for free? Just curious.

TF-100 provides the most tests and convenience. I figure the $68 charge is a bargain compared to all the bottles of potions the pool store will encourage you to buy (most being unnecessary and/or overpriced) to compensate for that "free" water test. LOL

 

[chjade84]

Would kit be needed if the store does their testing for free?

Yes. Pool stores' testing is notoriously inaccurate. You can (and some members here have) take the same water to different stores and get conflicting results. You can't know what and how much to add to your pool when you can't trust the measurements you use to make that decision. For instance, if they say your CYA (stabilizer) is too low - and it's not - you will add more. But now it's too high and the dose of chlorine isn't enough to keep the algae at bay anymore. So you get algae and need to spend $$$ on more chlorine to kill it (and even more because your stabilizer is too high!), plus all the work that entails. Once it's cleared, your stabilizer is still too high and now you need to drain water and replace it to get it back to the right level. That's more $ on your water bill. That's just one example!

Besides, in order to take care of the pool properly you will need to be testing water every day - are you going to want to go to the pool store every single day?