I've shocked roughly 10+ times

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MishawakaKirk

0
Jun 15, 2014
6
Mishawaka, IN
Hi everyone,
First time poster here but I'm struggling with my pool this season. Too many problems.
For starters, I have a mesh winter cover that lets water though. So each season I open to Green water with various levels of algae growth. Same this year.
Thus far I've shocked roughly 10+ times (40+ gallons total), 4 gallons per shocking. Current readings are:
PH 7.6
Alk 120
Calcium Hardness 200
Chlorine 5+ (above scale reading ability)
Cyanuric acid... none measureable; added yesterday via sock in the pool method
Temp 75; Heater & Chlorinator in-line (heater valved off-line).
Today is the first day I see any resemblance of clarity, but can not see the deep end main drain. Still hazey... HELP!

I also have an intake air leak, yet un-located. But I've read the ideas here on the TF web site and tried them all. I've used a soapy leak detector solution. In the past when sprayed on a air leak source, the air in the pot would disappear. Not so this time; So I hate to shudder if I have an underground leak? I have an intake diverter valve and bought a replacement; Replaced pumps seals two years ago -- wondering if replacing my impeller might help?
Because when diverter is 100% main drain, it never achieves full suction (Impeller?)
When diverter is 100% Skimmer, same problem.... which I'm lead to believe could be leaking intake side? But since 100% main doesn't work perfectly either, I'm stumped.

My flow is still a respectable force, so I don't think air leak (prob #2) is the cause of prob # 1.. but I need help!
 
What are you using for testing chlorine levels ? It's pretty hard to do an efficient SLAM without a good FAS-DPD test kit.

Until you get one...

- if you are using strips, you could try diluting the pool water and multiplying the chlorine level result
- if you are using OTO (yellow) drop test, there are some approximate colour values posted here for higher chlorine levels

Key point though is that you need to keep the FC level high enough "non stop"... if you let it come down then you run the risk of algae growing back and effectively wasting some or all of the bleach you have added so far.
 
Hi Bridgman,

I actually have two test kits and used both with very similar results for Chlorine.
OTO / PH test kit, new a week ago... Way Yellow, off the charts = greater than 5 ppm
Taylor DPD Test kit, with last year reagents = Solid red results, off chart of 5+. (I always keep the kit indoors)

Reason CL was so high, is previous years the pool store would suggest shocking every 12 hours till it cleared up. I am doing the same, but daily. Liquid / Powder, alternating days.
When I first opened the pool, PH was higher; 1/2 gallon muratic was added to bring PH in line.
Today, Monday pool looks yet a bit better. Not crystal clear, but progress after shocking now 12 times!!
 
SLAMing the pool will take care of whatever is living in the pool, but it is impossible to perform without the FAS-DPD test.

As to your equipment issues, underground leaks can happen, but they are very rare. What kind of pressure readings are you seeing at the filter? Are you positive the gauge is working? Does the flow slow down over time when the pump is in operation, or is it low from the time you turn it on? When you turn the pump off, does the basket stay full of water, or does the pump empty back into the pool?
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! Shocking the pool is a process, not just an application of product. At TFP we call it the SLAM process. Slam stands for Shock Level And Maintain. Using information derived from PoolMath you add enough liquid chlorine to raise the pool to shock level and re-test the water every couple of hours and add more liquid chlorine as needed to get back to shock level. You repeat this process until the pool is clear, CC is .5 or less, and you pass the overnight chlorine loss test (oclt).


Minimum shock level is 10ppm of free chlorine (FC) and most test kits stop at 5ppm. This is why you need a high quality test kit such as a Taylor K2006 or a TF100 . These kits contain the FAS-DPD test that allow you to test FC levels over 50ppm.

Please read ABCs of pool water chemistry for more information.

As far as your air leak goes, usually a below ground suction side leak will be plugged with dirt getting pulled into the opening. Re-check all the above ground joints and unions between the skimmer and the pump. Also make sure the water in the pool is at least 1/2 way up the skimmer opening. Low water levels will cause air to get sucked into the plumbing. Use silicone pool lube on the o-ring on the pump pot strainer lid, and make sure the pump pot drain plug is snug.
 
Smykowski,
Thanks.... Gurnee, by Great America and some mall, I'm guessing. I'm old Hyde Park (South side of Chicago)

Anyway -- FAS ? So you're more worried about Free chlorine? My readings were total CL, as I wanted to see if it was time to shock again. Never added the additional drops for Free CL test. Important, apparently?

Gauge is good and is reading about the same 12-15 psi as always.
When I turn the pump OFF, there is no Air surge and there is no water spurt (usually air leaks will spurt water). If pump is off for a while (5-10 minutes) upon turning it back ON, pot stays solid water and pump is nice and quiet. But after a few minutes, the air returns. You can clearly see it through the cover coming in the 1 1/2" intake pipe into the basket. So to me that eliminates the gasket at the pot lid, and the two pump drain plugs. I've sprayed the diverter value with a soapy solution, hoping to notice a drop in air, but nothing works.
All I can figure is the leak is minor enough, self-sealing and takes a few minutes 'pump time' to re-open up.
 
Gurnee Mills is the mall, and it's not the outlet mecca it used to be.

Yes, FC is important. When you measure TC, you're getting the CC component lumped in there, and not having the breakdown doesn't help at all. If any of that sounds like gibberish, head to pool school - start with the link in my signature.

Just to confirm, if the pump is off, your gauge reads zero? The next place I would check for a leak is at the inlet for the pump basket.
 
MishawakaKirk:

I'll let someone correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I think you should be in good shape provided your water is clear and you can pass the overnight cholorine loss test.

FC + CC = TC

If your FC = 6 and your TC = 6 you have 0 CC which is good. When your CC rises above .5 it may be time to SLAM.
 
The FAS-DPD kit differs from the DPD kit in the fact that you add the DPD powder to your measured sample, then stir. it should turn barbie pink. While stirring, you count the drops of the FAS titrating solution until the pink turns clear again.

The FAS-DPD kit can measure up to 50 ppm, where most other kits stop at 5. That is why we strongly recommend the FAS-DPD over any other kit.
 

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As to the pressure gauge comment, pool pressure gauges are often of low quality and fail in a number of modes, meaning they can stick at any point, high, low or in between. They also sometimes fail with limited range to travel on the needle
 
Thanks everyone thus far for the advice and suggestions.
I've bought a FAS test kit and have some new numbers. Pool is 'clearer' but not 100% clear as it should be. I've shocked many more times, before the new FAS test kit.
Numbers today are as follows:
FC 12 ppm (24 drops at the 10 ml scale)
CC 2.5 ppm It was almost clear, but one drop, at the 10 ml scale, made it clear for sure
PH 7.4 to 7.6
Alk 120
Calcium Hardness 200
 
MishawakaKirk said:
Thanks everyone thus far for the advice and suggestions.
I've bought a FAS test kit and have some new numbers. Pool is 'clearer' but not 100% clear as it should be. I've shocked many more times, before the new FAS test kit.
Numbers today are as follows:
FC 12 ppm (24 drops at the 10 ml scale)
CC 2.5 ppm It was almost clear, but one drop, at the 10 ml scale, made it clear for sure
PH 7.4 to 7.6
Alk 120
Calcium Hardness 200
Click to expand...
One drop means CC is only.5.
 
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