motor wiring idea

[Aaron123]

Hi,
I've had a pool for several years and one thing that I've had problems with is the motor wiring. It's very very cramped in the connection area and the wires are frayed, taped and the slip on terminals look to be in bad shape. I've replaced the terminal ends a couple times. Every time I remove the motor (at least yearly), it's a real battle to thread the wires through the 90 degree conduit connector and into the connection area. I guess I could hire a pro electrician to replace the whole thing but I was thinking of the following and would like some feedback...
I would cut off about the last 6 - 8" of wires (3 - white, black, green) and remake them like new with new slip on connectors. Connect them 'permanently' to the motor. The loose ends would be wired to a heavy duty three prong male plug. The other loose ends (from the box) would be wired to a heavy duty three prong female plug. Going forward, I would only need to plug/unplug them to move the motor and the connections inside the motor would remain undisturbed and tight.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!

Thinking that would violate code and not be a water proof connection.

Could you more easily disconnect the other end of the wire from the timer?

 

[Aaron123]

I'm not using a timer. The wires (through conduit) go directly to the power box.
Aaron

 

[jblizzle]

Well then, I would add a timer and save yourself some money on power.

If you do not want a timer, you could add a junction box and maybe an on off switch.

 

[mas985]

Most AG pumps have plugs so I see no reason you couldn't do the same but the outlet has to be waterproof and I would use a twist lock plug. Something like this: http://www.bryant-electric.com/literature/BSS110_PoolKit.pdf

 

[Aaron123]

Hi,
I guess I should have added a few more details. The wiring from the motor goes to an exterior power/junction box and that's what we use to control power to the motor, lights, etc. We pretty much run the pump 24/7. I've tried cycling it but we get horrible algae blooms and I hate that. That plug that mas985 looks interesting - thanks.
Aaron

 

[mas985]

I've tried cycling it but we get horrible algae blooms

That is not caused by pump cycling. That is a chemistry issue. Most pools don't need more than 4 hours per day when the chemistry is properly balanced.

 

[jblizzle]

I had in my head extension cord plugs ... Using an actual outlet like Mark points out makes more sense.

Btw, I switched the 90 bend on the conduit connection to the motor with a straight one to make passing the wire easier.

 

[poolkid]

That is not caused by pump cycling. That is a chemistry issue. Most pools don't need more than 4 hours per day when the chemistry is properly balanced.

I see you're in Pleasanton. I grew up in the central Contra Costa County area. I had a 150 pool route up there, and I would agree that 4 hours may be enough in that area. I've been in AZ since 2000, and 4 hours isn't nearly enough circulation for our summer heat.

Yes, good chemistry is critical, but you can't keep the chlorine evenly distributed with the pump off for 20 hours per day. Our daytime temps are in the 100 to 115 range, and we get stratification. The top layer of water gets so warm that is gasses off the chlorine and starts algae growing - especially the yellow strain.

If my maintenance clients aren't willing to pony up for a minimum of 12 hours per day of circulation, I kindly and respectfully drop them. VS pumps running 24/7 have been huge in reducing chlorine consumption for my route.

 

[Aaron123]

I was thinking of extension cord style plugs but really heavy duty types. The wall mounted plug does look safer...

Aaron

 

[mas985]

I see you're in Pleasanton. I grew up in the central Contra Costa County area. I had a 150 pool route up there, and I would agree that 4 hours may be enough in that area. I've been in AZ since 2000, and 4 hours isn't nearly enough circulation for our summer heat.

I think there are several forum members in AZ that run that low too. But you might want to read the report in my signature. That was done for FL pools where it is hot, humid and a lot of debris dropping in the pool.

Yes, good chemistry is critical, but you can't keep the chlorine evenly distributed with the pump off for 20 hours per day. Our daytime temps are in the 100 to 115 range, and we get stratification. The top layer of water gets so warm that is gasses off the chlorine and starts algae growing - especially the yellow strain.

I didn't say you needed to keep the pump off 20 hours per day. I just said that most pools don't need more than 4 hours per day and that includes AZ. You don't need much run time to circulate water so running 2 hours twice a day 12 hours apart is much more effective than a single run of 8 hours straight for circulation. So there is always a way to have proper circulation and still have short run time.

If my maintenance clients aren't willing to pony up for a minimum of 12 hours per day of circulation, I kindly and respectfully drop them. VS pumps running 24/7 have been huge in reducing chlorine consumption for my route.

You might suggest a split run time to keep both of you happy.

But part of your issue may have nothing to do with pump run time and everything to do with chemistry. Solving chemistry issues with run time is a losing proposition. It could be your pools do not have enough chlorine for the CYA level and run time is just masking the real problem. You might try upping the FC level some. Also, are your pools running on pucks? If so, that could also be a CYA/FC problem. If you keep FC above 10% of the CYA level, you should be able to drop the run time of your client's pools.

 

[Aaron123]

so to get back on topic, an electrical plug would be acceptable as long as it's waterproof?
BTW, Thanks for hijacking the thread

 

[mas985]

Yes, it needs to be waterproof AND capable of handing the max current of the pump.