New pool surface prep questions

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jmcdtucson

jmcdtucson

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 12, 2014
361
Flagstaff, AZ
Pool Size
250
Hi, I'm new, and I apologize if this has been asked 1000 times. I've searched the site and it seems like I'm on the right track but I wanted to post my plan and see if any one sees any issues.

1. I'm installing an Intex 12x24 ultraframe pool.
2. I've rough-leveled the ground by removing material (see picture). Level is checked by using a 5 ft. masonry level on a 16' 4x4 that I've verified is straight.
3. There are pits and valleys in the hard desert soil, some about 1" deep so I plan to add an inch or so of sand to smooth everything out.
4. Build a frame of 2x6 pressure-treated lumber around the border to hold the sand in and keep the surrounding dirt/gravel out. The border will be 15' x27' to leave room for the supports.
5. Rent a tamper to compact the sand
6. Screed the sand using the level border boards as my guide
6. Use 12x12 cement pavers for supporting the support legs. Pavers will be dug out as needed to be level with the pool bottom.
7. Use owen foamular foam underneath the pool bottom itself.

Does it sound like a workable plan? Thanks. Here is a picture of the leveled site:

2014-06-12 19.13.04.jpg
 
You are going to need thick, heavy duty pavers that are at least 4" thick. The rectangular Intex pools are snapping the 12"x12"x1" pavers like twigs.

Your plan on everything else looks spot on.

I would encourage you to read Pool School in your down time and order a TF100 test kit from TFtestkits,net! :cool:
 
Since you're using timber already... I'm using railway sleepers that have been treated.... They're 75mm thick but my pool will only weigh 17 tonnes, your pool is going to weigh 31 tonnes when its full of water, that's a lot of weight, so 4" thick trailer concrete pads will save you the heartache of snapping pavers....
 
laceygirl said:
Since you're using timber already... I'm using railway sleepers that have been treated.... They're 75mm thick but my pool will only weigh 17 tonnes, your pool is going to weigh 31 tonnes when its full of water, that's a lot of weight, so 4" thick trailer concrete pads will save you the heartache of snapping pavers....
Click to expand...

Another vote for the 16"x16"x4" trailer blocks. Seems to be the only thing that will hold the load of the rectangular pool's legs.

Make sure, when tamping/compacting the sand, you keep the sand wet. Otherwise, it will just shift around on you. And make sure you tamp again after screeding the sand.
 
You can also use the cap blocks for masonry. They are 8"x16"x4". They are sold with the block at any home improvement store (HD, Lowes, etc.) I bought mine for $1.25 a piece and they are holding up great on my 16*48 Intex Ultra. Granted mine is round versus your rectangle but they could work as long as the legs land fully on them.
 
Thanks. Just wondering, the desert soil here is so hard, I had to use a jackhammer to dig out the area. Do I still need 4" supports if the ground is that hard? It's easy to forget that other people live where you can actually dig with a shovel :cool:
 
jmcdtucson said:
Thanks. Just wondering, the desert soil here is so hard, I had to use a jackhammer to dig out the area. Do I still need 4" supports if the ground is that hard? It's easy to forget that other people live where you can actually dig with a shovel :cool:
Click to expand...

I don't know anything about your climate, but I would want to consider what the soil is going to do if you happen to get an inch or two of rain.

If the paver doesn't sit on a perfectly flat base, the thinner ones WILL snap like a twig even though the ground is like concrete. I broke one of my 1" pavers trying to hammer it down an extra 1/8" into the sand with a rubber mallet.

The engineering of the rectangular pools is totally different from the round pools. When you set yours up, the long sides will be bowed inward. When it finally gets almost full, the water will be forcing the sides outward which will force the legs down and out. I don't think there is such a thing as overkill on the rectangular pools no matter what the soil is like.

This guy has some nice pictures of the sides sagging to help you see what I mean.
 

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Nevermind, I found the 16x16x4 and, about $250 later, I am the proud owner of 18 of those heavy suckers along with 9 sheets of Foamular insulation. It's the insulation that was expensive.
Next weekend pool assembly should commence.
 
Put the frame boards around the exterior and leveled them. Used a masonry level on each board and when I met at the opposite corner the two sets of boards met so this is a good sign. Also re-checked corner to corner using masonry line and line level and it checks out perfect.
Now I've thrown on an inch of sand to fill the divots.
18 trailer pad pavers are on-site.
I'll screed and tamp the sand this weekend to make a (hopefully) perfectly flat bed. I can't get perfect screed boards, but should be within 1/4".
Then I'll tape the foam and lay it on the ground tarp that came with the pool, check level again, and put up the pool.
Once I have the pool set out, I can place the pavers where the leg supports are. At that point, I'll have to dig down to make the pavers level and flush with the surface.
One question: I have a 12x24 pool and I have just enough foam to make it 12x24. Is that enough or should I get more foam so that it sticks out beyond the edge of the pool?
Anything obvious I'm missing?


2014-06-17 16.38.39.jpg
 
jmcdtucson said:
Put the frame boards around the exterior and leveled them. Used a masonry level on each board and when I met at the opposite corner the two sets of boards met so this is a good sign. Also re-checked corner to corner using masonry line and line level and it checks out perfect.
Now I've thrown on an inch of sand to fill the divots.
18 trailer pad pavers are on-site.
I'll screed and tamp the sand this weekend to make a (hopefully) perfectly flat bed. I can't get perfect screed boards, but should be within 1/4".
Then I'll tape the foam and lay it on the ground tarp that came with the pool, check level again, and put up the pool.
Once I have the pool set out, I can place the pavers where the leg supports are. At that point, I'll have to dig down to make the pavers level and flush with the surface.
One question: I have a 12x24 pool and I have just enough foam to make it 12x24. Is that enough or should I get more foam so that it sticks out beyond the edge of the pool?
Anything obvious I'm missing?


View attachment 30754
Click to expand...

The foam is mainly there to make a nice comfortable bottom to your pool. So I would think you'd be ok with just enough to go under the pool. Just make sure the top of your trailer pads are level with the top of the foam. Then you can fill around them and up to the foam with sand or river pebbles or whatever else you choose to decorate with.

As for the sand. Be sure and "rain" the sand in before and after screeding. We got lucky and got 2" or so of rain after spreading our sand out. The rain will pack it unlike anything else you can use. It I were in your situation/climate, I would screed the sand and set up a lawn sprinkler to "rain" on it overnight and screed it again the next day. Then test how well it packed in and maybe "rain" it in again. If you try to tamp/pack the sand while it is dry it will just shift around on you. Imagine trying to make a sand castle with dry powdery sand.
 

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