Vacation Prep

[SilverJK]

I wasn't sure where to post this, so I placed it under my chlorination method. I'm leaving for a 1 week vacation in a month and I would like to have a clear pool when I get back. I do not have any automation features and currently run the SWG 8 hours a day @ 40%.

Is there any way I can get the pool to last 1 week in hot July with a lot of sun (& whatever else happens) without going south on me? There is an outside chance a relative could check on it 2 or 3 times (turning pump on/off), but I'm not placing all bets on that happening.

Any suggestions or recommendations?

 

[ping]

I'm not sure if I'm understanding your situation right. I take it that you do not have to turn you pump on and off manually to get things running with a pool this size. The sentence where the relative can check on the pool and can turn the pump on/off is throwing me for a loop.

Anyways, you should not have to do much if the pool is dialed in before you leave. The only things I would do is to lower the pH if you need to and for insurance I would bump up the SWG output to 70%. If you are a little high on the FC when you return, then turn it off for a day or two and return it back to your normal settings when the FC has dropped.

This is the great part about SWG's, they keep the water chlorinated while you are out and can not attend to the pool for a week or two.

 

[Richard320]

Just put everything on a timer, raise the water level to allow for evaporation, and put the cover on. You'll come home to find clear water with probably high FC and high pH. A day with the cover off and some Borax and everything's back to normal.

Search Timer and you'll find hundreds of threads discussing timer choices and wiring options.

 

[SilverJK]

Actually, I do not have a timer nor a pool cover. I flip the breakers (both are 220) for the SWG and the pump every day. I mentioned that my relative may come by a check on it (use the pool to swim some0, but I'm not sure that will materialize to be honest.

From what I'm reading here, both of you are suggesting I get a timer installed. From what I have read, the Intermatic T104 or one that will utilize freeze protection (since I don't close my pool). Considering I would be using it to power 2 240v devices, it there a recommended model? Also, both my Aquarite and breaker box are mounted to the brick under the eave of my home adjacent to the equipment pad.

Thanks

 

[Richard320]

Sorry, I'm not an electrician. I don't know the codes and what is legal as far as wiring things together, whether the pump and SWG can both be fed off the same timer or not.

 

[ping]

I have the T104 and it should handle your equipment, but you should have an electrician hook everything up. My pump, SWG, and heater are all hooked up through the T104. Having everything on a timer would be worth it to me so I would not have to turn the pump on/off everyday and having the pool on a reliable set schedule.

If you have concerns with freeze, the T104 can be simply adjusted to run overnight. I never have to worry about freeze protection, but I have had the need to run overnight.

Another option for you is to run the pump 24/7 while you are away.

 

[SilverJK]

Regarding the model, is there a particular version of the timers I should get if it's mounted on the outside of my home (exposed to elements)? I know I can get it wired in thru help from friends (non electricians) that deal with electricity all the time. I'm not sure about code either. I may just do the 24/7 running and low output to get by if I cannot get anything done before my vacation starts.

Thanks again

 

[ping]

Look for the T104 it has a steel box. The T104P has a plastic box and the T104M is just the switch mechanism. http://www.intermatic.com/Products/TimeSwitches/MechanicalSwitches/24Hour/T100Series/T104.aspx

There are other digital switches, but the T104 is a basic timer that should last many many years. My in-laws timer was installed in 1980 and it is completely exposed to the kind elements in SoCal.

 

[0707384]

I run the T104 on mine... a single box runs the pump and SWG. When it's time to run, the pump and generator start. I don't cover the pool, ever... I can't imagine not having a pool set up without it. Just saying is sure saves a lot of trouble and like the expert says, you can use it to your advantage to run the pump when it's close to freezing out. (provided you live somewhere other than North Dakota or where you have hard freezes) suspect you have to empty the pools there.

 

[SilverJK]

just for clarification, the T104 will run a pair of 220 volt devices (pump and SWG are both 220)?

Thanks

 

[techguy]

The T104 comes in several configurations with different timers and switches. I think you want one with a 220v clock and 220v switches. The clock and switching capacity/conductors can have different voltages and you can get then with either one or sets of switches. If you are just doing the pump, a single should be fine. If you also need to switch a SWG or lights or you need to change speeds on the pump, you need multiple switches.

If you don't understand the switching and electric, I highly suggest an electrician.

 

[ping]

Looking at the models you will want the T104R which is a type 3R Steel box rated for snow, ice, etc. and is 220v.

Have your electrical guy confirm before purchasing.

 

[SilverJK]

T104R is what I'm planning on getting. In looking at the diagram, I feel like I have a good understanding. My electrical guy will be there supervising me for the most part.

Take the supply neutral wire and terminate them with both neutral incoming wires from the SWG and Pump with wire nut or ground screw. Then take the black supply leads from each pole on the breaker and terminate them individually on the #1 and #3 contacts respectively. Then I will terminate the hot wires from the SWG on #2 & #4 and do the same for the pump. also connected the clock to #1 & #3 as well. All of this being done with the main beaker being thrown (there is a sub panel mounted that I'm connecting the timer to). Running all wires in a secured type of conduit.

I have a 110\220 tester that I can very I have the voltage operating correct before connecting the pool equipment. I've done minor things with 220 before such as changing out electrical dryer plugs with newer types and removing\reattaching the pump to replace bearings last year.

Do I have the basic idea of it?