Do you think I could run my PVC pipe (ditch the plastic tubing) underground straight from the pool appx 10 to 12 feet to where I could nice have the pump/filter on side of my house? Does it mess with how effectively it pumps the water?
Running PVC underground on AGP
- Thread starter MermaidMama
- Start date
That is fine. The longer pipe run will cut down on the water flow a little, but only a little. The fact that the pipes are underground won't have any effect.
You will need to remember to winterize the pipes when you close for the season.
You will need to remember to winterize the pipes when you close for the season.
Maybe even bump up one or two sizes in the pipe to account for the longer run. It can only help.
skeeter
skeeter
Ok. So a little research and I see Doughboy skimmer and return might not connect easily. Here is how PB has it set up now.
Do we have to buy this PVC Adaptor kit sold by Doughboy?
So, if we run PVC pipe straight down and underground then 10 feet over to side of house, back up and connect to hose. In this picture you can see better. It would run from pool to side of house I'll have electrician put post right there too.
Electrician is coming Monday to run electrical and to fully bond/ground the pool and pump/filter. I'd love to do this hard plumbing this weekend, so it's right where it needs to be and doesn't need moved later.
Please help. We know we need to use Schedule 40 PVC and we're going to use the reducers to make it 2" pipe.
Is 12 inches deep enough to dig the trench?
Any other suggestions?
Do we have to buy this PVC Adaptor kit sold by Doughboy?
So, if we run PVC pipe straight down and underground then 10 feet over to side of house, back up and connect to hose. In this picture you can see better. It would run from pool to side of house I'll have electrician put post right there too.
Electrician is coming Monday to run electrical and to fully bond/ground the pool and pump/filter. I'd love to do this hard plumbing this weekend, so it's right where it needs to be and doesn't need moved later.
Please help. We know we need to use Schedule 40 PVC and we're going to use the reducers to make it 2" pipe.
Is 12 inches deep enough to dig the trench?
Any other suggestions?
Also, when we disconnect the hoses from the skimmer and return, is there something special we need to do?
12" is more than enough. You are going to have to winterize the lines (in your case blow them out with a shop vac) so whatever depth you go to is only there to prevent damage, not to prevent freezing.
When you do the plumbing, avoid hard 90 elbows and use sweeps if possible. Better yet, use 45 degree elbows if you can. I have done almost the same thing you have, except my pipe is on the surface (under a deck). I used 2" pipe all around (just because I like overkill). It comes straight down off the skimmer into a sweep 90, then a horizontal 45. It then goes to a ball valve, then a union, then a 45 angle up, and then a sweep 90 into the side of the pump. The return comes out the filter into a hard 90 (yes, I know, but there were space limitations) then into a 45 degree, into a union then ball valve, then into a sweep 90 up into the bottom of the return fitting (Aqualuminator). I have about 12' of pipe on both the suction and the return. My flow is MUCH better than when I was using the old 5' ribbed hose connections. The ball valves and unions make cleaning the skimmer on the pump and winterizing a snap. Hard plumbing was well worth the money.
Ill see if I can grab it picture if you want.
-dave
- - - Updated - - -
There is a fitting. Not sure what your skimmer bottom or return has on it. I glued a threaded female attachment to the bottom of my skimmer and went from there. My return required a special part (because it is a combo light and return and has an oddball shape)
-dave
When you do the plumbing, avoid hard 90 elbows and use sweeps if possible. Better yet, use 45 degree elbows if you can. I have done almost the same thing you have, except my pipe is on the surface (under a deck). I used 2" pipe all around (just because I like overkill). It comes straight down off the skimmer into a sweep 90, then a horizontal 45. It then goes to a ball valve, then a union, then a 45 angle up, and then a sweep 90 into the side of the pump. The return comes out the filter into a hard 90 (yes, I know, but there were space limitations) then into a 45 degree, into a union then ball valve, then into a sweep 90 up into the bottom of the return fitting (Aqualuminator). I have about 12' of pipe on both the suction and the return. My flow is MUCH better than when I was using the old 5' ribbed hose connections. The ball valves and unions make cleaning the skimmer on the pump and winterizing a snap. Hard plumbing was well worth the money.
Ill see if I can grab it picture if you want.
-dave
- - - Updated - - -
There is a fitting. Not sure what your skimmer bottom or return has on it. I glued a threaded female attachment to the bottom of my skimmer and went from there. My return required a special part (because it is a combo light and return and has an oddball shape)
-dave
How do I temporarily plug the return so we can change the hose and pipe? I guess returns don't come with these when the pool goes in.
So, I need to figure this out by tomorrow.
So, I need to figure this out by tomorrow.
I have the same type setup as you're wanting. My equipment sits against the side of the house and the plumbing is ran underground from there to the pool.
I plug my return with a 1½" PVC threaded plug. Just unscrew the eyeball fitting and screw the plug in there.
One thing I would recommend is to use real pool valves instead of ball valves from the big box store if you possibly can. You'd be surprised how much pressure drop those ball valve create.
I plug my return with a 1½" PVC threaded plug. Just unscrew the eyeball fitting and screw the plug in there.
One thing I would recommend is to use real pool valves instead of ball valves from the big box store if you possibly can. You'd be surprised how much pressure drop those ball valve create.
The Jandy valves are not ball valves. They're gate valves and they're top of the line in pool installations.
Jandy does have ball valves, but I am sure I am confusing something with something. :-|
Sorry about that. I was thinking of the Neverlube valves. Those Jandy ball valves look to be full port valves and if they are, they would be fine to use.
No problem. I'm so new to this, I'm just bound to mess something up. I KNOW we can figure this out and get it done right. Then, it will be done, electrician comes Monday and when we add deck in the fall, we won't have to move it and tear the yard up again.
Sorry for the late reply.
Here is my set up. This is under the deck - the skimmer is on the left, and the return on the right
And at the filter itself
And what it looks like from a distance
Pay no attention to the uncut grass and the racetrack the dog likes to make around the pool.
-dave
Here is my set up. This is under the deck - the skimmer is on the left, and the return on the right
And at the filter itself
And what it looks like from a distance
Pay no attention to the uncut grass and the racetrack the dog likes to make around the pool.
-dave