Just got K-2006 kit

[cloverjt]

Hi,

I am new to this whole pool thing. I just did my first test with the kit and these are my numbers. I don't really want to rely on the pool store and want to do myself but man this is confusing. Pool guy did the pool the first 2 months. It did rain today about 3 hours prior to me doing this test. Not sure if that matters.

FC=4.2
CC=0.2
PH=8.0
TA=70
CH=490
CYA=95

Any assistance on this would be great.
1. I am wondering if my numbers make sense.
2. CC seems low but FC is high?
3. The calcium seems high and not sure what to do about that. The water is pretty clear.
4. CYA seems high so do I need stabilizer? If so, can I use a household product or does it have to be the stabilizer at the pool store?
5. Salt generator is at 25%.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

1. #s seem plausible
2. You want CC to be low. But your FC is not actually high. In fact it is not high enough (oops did not see the SWG part so you may be fine). Required FC level is a function of your CYA as seen in the FC/CYA Chart.
3. That is a bit high, only way to lower it is by replacing water. But, you can manage the ill effects by keeping your pH in range (down around 7.5). You need to add muriatic acid. And keep an eye on this as the SWG tend to make the pH rise. If it stays too high with the high CH, you will get calcium scaling in your pool.
4. This is your biggest problem. Your CYA is too high and you should to lower it. Since you have a SWG, You should replace about 20% of the water to get the CYA between 70-80ppm.
5. That is fine.

How does the water look?

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

 

[zea3]

Hi, welcome to TFP! Your CYA is a touch high for a SWG pool. Ideal level is 70, but you can make 95 work for now. There is no household equivalent for CYA but some Walmarts and hardware stores sell less expensive brands of stabilizer/conditioner/CYA.
According to PoolMath you should keep the FC at 4ppm so yours is fine.
You want CC to be from 0 to .5, any higher indicates a potential algae problem.
Yes the CH (calcium) is high, but you can manage that if you keep the pH between 7.0 and 7.5
You need to bring your pH down to at least 7.2 for a couple of reasons. First, lower pH will prevent calcium scale formation when CH levels are high, and second the SWG will cause pH to rise over time.

You can lower the CH and CYA by doing a partial drain and refill of pool water. You would need to drain about 1/4th the volume of the pool to lower the CYA to 70 and the CH to 350. You don't have to lower these values to maintain the pool, but you would use a little less chlorine if you did.

 

[svenpup]

Good answers so far, but I'll add:

CYA is stabilizer. Yours is high so definitely don't add any.

Also, it it clear that you are using the 25ml sample size for the chlorine test to get accuracy to .2. This is overkill. Use the 10ml directions which will give you .5 accuracy and save your reagents.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cloverjt]

Thank you all for the information. I will keep at it.

jblizzle -I did read through the Pool School stuff but just need to digest it I guess. I will read it again and again and again until I get it. The water is clear.