Considering a salt system. Here is my equipment pad. Would an install be feasible? Any complicating factors based on my setup? Any specific recommendations. I am considering a highly automated system.
SWG install- completed
- Thread starter DLSDO
- Start date
Re: SWCG install?
Is the LQ covered by that black stuff?
Your bleach may lose its strength because of thermal decomposition.
Try to replace the black cover by aluminum foil and notice any increase in your FC.
Is the LQ covered by that black stuff?
Your bleach may lose its strength because of thermal decomposition.
Try to replace the black cover by aluminum foil and notice any increase in your FC.
Re: SWCG install?
I have measured the water temp in my LQ. It is the same as my pool water temp. Since I recently modified my LQ to achieve an adequate flow rate my FC is stable.
Considering complete automation...chlorine and acid....a SWCG may be my best bet. Looking forward to the opinions of SWCG owners and specialists out there!!
Thanks,
Water_man said:
I have measured the water temp in my LQ. It is the same as my pool water temp. Since I recently modified my LQ to achieve an adequate flow rate my FC is stable.
Considering complete automation...chlorine and acid....a SWCG may be my best bet. Looking forward to the opinions of SWCG owners and specialists out there!!
Thanks,
Re: SWCG install?
Yes, you can install a SWG. From what I can see of your plumbing, it looks like you will need to add some pipe to have enough room to install the SWG. One approach would be to take the main return line and run it off to the left and then come back. Put the shutoff valve on the run to the left (closer to the pool) and the SWG on the return run (closer to the heater). Fitting it all in will take a little cleverness, but you have some room to work with.
Yes, you can install a SWG. From what I can see of your plumbing, it looks like you will need to add some pipe to have enough room to install the SWG. One approach would be to take the main return line and run it off to the left and then come back. Put the shutoff valve on the run to the left (closer to the pool) and the SWG on the return run (closer to the heater). Fitting it all in will take a little cleverness, but you have some room to work with.
Re: SWCG install?
Thanks for the reply. Any suggestions as too a specific brand of SWG based on my setup and interests...ie. automation.
JasonLion said:
Thanks for the reply. Any suggestions as too a specific brand of SWG based on my setup and interests...ie. automation.
Re: SWCG install?
Personally, I like the AutoPilot Digital model. It costs a little more and has some great features the others don't. If you are getting an automation system you can usually save a fair bit of money by getting the SWG that goes with the automation system.
Personally, I like the AutoPilot Digital model. It costs a little more and has some great features the others don't. If you are getting an automation system you can usually save a fair bit of money by getting the SWG that goes with the automation system.
Re: SWCG install?
If you're looking into complete automation, you'll have to change the valves anyway to Jandy 3-way valves (or similar) to accept the actuators. When you make that change, all sorts of room can be opened up for the cell, etc.
A couple things caught my eye:
#1 - Who installed the CL 220 ??? There is NOTHING correct about that install!!!
#2 - Why is the booster pump being fed HEATED water????
I hope you do the plumbing for the SWCG yourself (I and the others here can talk you through it) - DO NOT USE whoever plumbed your pool originally!
AS for which SWCG to get, for basic salt generation, I don't have a preference, but if you want the acid drip, go with Pool Pilot (tried and true + you have Poolsean here to assist you) over Goldline (Hayward's are too new to trust, yet! IMO) Strannik sells SWCGs at a discount to TFP paid subscribers, I imagine he wouldn't mind an e-mail or pm from you asking about whether one of his products will do what you want!
[aside] If you do another X-MAS card around the pool, PLEASE take the pic in August -(so the rest of us who can't swim in December don't start breaking things in the house thinking of you still swimming a couple of weeks before X-MAS! 
)
If you're looking into complete automation, you'll have to change the valves anyway to Jandy 3-way valves (or similar) to accept the actuators. When you make that change, all sorts of room can be opened up for the cell, etc.
A couple things caught my eye:
#1 - Who installed the CL 220 ??? There is NOTHING correct about that install!!!
#2 - Why is the booster pump being fed HEATED water????
I hope you do the plumbing for the SWCG yourself (I and the others here can talk you through it) - DO NOT USE whoever plumbed your pool originally!
AS for which SWCG to get, for basic salt generation, I don't have a preference, but if you want the acid drip, go with Pool Pilot (tried and true + you have Poolsean here to assist you) over Goldline (Hayward's are too new to trust, yet! IMO) Strannik sells SWCGs at a discount to TFP paid subscribers, I imagine he wouldn't mind an e-mail or pm from you asking about whether one of his products will do what you want!
[aside] If you do another X-MAS card around the pool, PLEASE take the pic in August -(so the rest of us who can't swim in December don't start breaking things in the house thinking of you still swimming a couple of weeks before X-MAS!
)Re: SWCG install?
Always the problem with pics....The cl220 is plumbed correctly. Just after the pump to the cl220 then back in just after the heater. Your seeing tubing for the Liquidator also. I suspect that's where the confusion arose.
I am not sure if the booster is being fed heated water. I will take a closer look when I get home. If it is then does it need to be redone?
I am getting tired of refilling my liquidator with chlorine every 10 days. Its a long haul down to my pool. See pic below. I have already added salt to give the pool a silkier feel so I feel like what the heck, I might as well add a SWG.
I read JasonLions review of the Total Control system. I am not sure if it is worth all the extra expense to add pH control. I guess the trade off is the need to add acid regularly due to the gradual pH rise associated with SWGs.
For those of you that have to manually add acid, how often are you adding acid...weekly?
Finally..installation. I am fairly handy but I am not a plumber or electrician. Is this something I could do on my own? If not then how do I go about finding someone that actually knows what they are doing?
Thanks,
waste said:If you're looking into complete automation, you'll have to change the valves anyway to Jandy 3-way valves (or similar) to accept the actuators. When you make that change, all sorts of room can be opened up for the cell, etc.
A couple things caught my eye:
#1 - Who installed the CL 220 ??? There is NOTHING correct about that install!!!
#2 - Why is the booster pump being fed HEATED water????
I hope you do the plumbing for the SWCG yourself (I and the others here can talk you through it) - DO NOT USE whoever plumbed your pool originally!
AS for which SWCG to get, for basic salt generation, I don't have a preference, but if you want the acid drip, go with Pool Pilot (tried and true + you have Poolsean here to assist you) over Goldline (Hayward's are too new to trust, yet! IMO) Strannik sells SWCGs at a discount to TFP paid subscribers, I imagine he wouldn't mind an e-mail or pm from you asking about whether one of his products will do what you want!
[aside] If you do another X-MAS card around the pool, PLEASE take the pic in August -(so the rest of us who can't swim in December don't start breaking things in the house thinking of you still swimming a couple of weeks before X-MAS!
Always the problem with pics....The cl220 is plumbed correctly. Just after the pump to the cl220 then back in just after the heater. Your seeing tubing for the Liquidator also. I suspect that's where the confusion arose.
I am not sure if the booster is being fed heated water. I will take a closer look when I get home. If it is then does it need to be redone?
I am getting tired of refilling my liquidator with chlorine every 10 days. Its a long haul down to my pool. See pic below. I have already added salt to give the pool a silkier feel so I feel like what the heck, I might as well add a SWG.
I read JasonLions review of the Total Control system. I am not sure if it is worth all the extra expense to add pH control. I guess the trade off is the need to add acid regularly due to the gradual pH rise associated with SWGs.
For those of you that have to manually add acid, how often are you adding acid...weekly?
Finally..installation. I am fairly handy but I am not a plumber or electrician. Is this something I could do on my own? If not then how do I go about finding someone that actually knows what they are doing?
Thanks,
Re: SWCG install?
Went thru similar process earlier this year. Looks like you already have a Pentair automation system. Assuming your automation system is ready for a SWG and you do not care about PH control, you can save some money on SWG power supply as well as gain automation control if you use a Pentair SWG.
I sent email to Pentair with some questions about cell mounting and got this response:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Patrick,
Thank you for contacting Pentair Water.
The IC20 and IC40 can both be mounted vertically or horizontally, and if the pool has a heater the Intellichlor should be installed no closer than three (3) feet from the heater outlet.
The Intellichlor will come with all of the required plumbing fittings. They are Schedule 80 rated at a maximum pressure of 150 psi at 70 degrees F. With the bulkhead fittings on you need 15", without 11".
Should you require further assistance please contact us.
Mickey
Pentair Water
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As others have noted you will have to make some plumbing changes between heater output and return line to pool where it goes underground in order to gain necessary space. Electrical is straight forward especially since you already have compatible automation system.
Followed Waterbear’s advice about borates, now add acid every 10 to 15 days.
Hope this helps.
Patrick
Went thru similar process earlier this year. Looks like you already have a Pentair automation system. Assuming your automation system is ready for a SWG and you do not care about PH control, you can save some money on SWG power supply as well as gain automation control if you use a Pentair SWG.
I sent email to Pentair with some questions about cell mounting and got this response:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Patrick,
Thank you for contacting Pentair Water.
The IC20 and IC40 can both be mounted vertically or horizontally, and if the pool has a heater the Intellichlor should be installed no closer than three (3) feet from the heater outlet.
The Intellichlor will come with all of the required plumbing fittings. They are Schedule 80 rated at a maximum pressure of 150 psi at 70 degrees F. With the bulkhead fittings on you need 15", without 11".
Should you require further assistance please contact us.
Mickey
Pentair Water
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As others have noted you will have to make some plumbing changes between heater output and return line to pool where it goes underground in order to gain necessary space. Electrical is straight forward especially since you already have compatible automation system.
Followed Waterbear’s advice about borates, now add acid every 10 to 15 days.
Hope this helps.
Patrick
Re: SWCG install?
Thanks. Very helpful. I have the Pentair Easy Touch 4. I thinks its compatible with the IC40 but does not have the power supply.
Did you do your own install?
Thanks,
patf11 said:
Thanks. Very helpful. I have the Pentair Easy Touch 4. I thinks its compatible with the IC40 but does not have the power supply.
Did you do your own install?
Thanks,
Re: SWCG install?
I did the install myself. I am normally inclined to do most jobs like this myself.
Really was not very hard, involves cutting and gluing PVC pipe and some simple electrical connections.
If you are comfortable with such things then it should be an reasonable project. You can download the Pentair IC40 installation manual from http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/IntelliChlorOM.pdf
Might want to check with Pentair to see what is required to integrate with your automation system. Not sure if you need a separate power supply for the IC40. Maybe someone else here knows.
Patrick
I did the install myself. I am normally inclined to do most jobs like this myself.
Really was not very hard, involves cutting and gluing PVC pipe and some simple electrical connections.
If you are comfortable with such things then it should be an reasonable project. You can download the Pentair IC40 installation manual from http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/IntelliChlorOM.pdf
Might want to check with Pentair to see what is required to integrate with your automation system. Not sure if you need a separate power supply for the IC40. Maybe someone else here knows.
Patrick
Re: SWCG install?
The Pool Pilot Total Control system can also be used with just the acid tank and purifier, called Pool Pilot pH control. This does not have the OPR and pH automation (sensors), therefore, the Purifier output and the pH output are based upon manual settings. The purifier is a 0 - 100% output. The pH is based upon oz of acid solution fed per day.
This is adjusted the same as the purifier %, test and adjust as needed. Soon after, the correct settings for your pool's use will be able to maintain it for you.
This should give you the relief you're looking for. I can just imagine lugging jugs up and down those steps. Ya got kids???
The Pool Pilot Total Control system can also be used with just the acid tank and purifier, called Pool Pilot pH control. This does not have the OPR and pH automation (sensors), therefore, the Purifier output and the pH output are based upon manual settings. The purifier is a 0 - 100% output. The pH is based upon oz of acid solution fed per day.
This is adjusted the same as the purifier %, test and adjust as needed. Soon after, the correct settings for your pool's use will be able to maintain it for you.
This should give you the relief you're looking for. I can just imagine lugging jugs up and down those steps. Ya got kids???
Re: SWCG install?
Can't get the kids to do anything useful.
Good info, Thanks.
Poolsean said:The Pool Pilot Total Control system can also be used with just the acid tank and purifier, called Pool Pilot pH control. This does not have the OPR and pH automation (sensors), therefore, the Purifier output and the pH output are based upon manual settings. The purifier is a 0 - 100% output. The pH is based upon oz of acid solution fed per day.
This is adjusted the same as the purifier %, test and adjust as needed. Soon after, the correct settings for your pool's use will be able to maintain it for you.
This should give you the relief you're looking for. I can just imagine lugging jugs up and down those steps. Ya got kids???
Can't get the kids to do anything useful.
Good info, Thanks.
Re: SWCG install?
Could I plumb the SWG so that it runs up vertically to create space? See my pic below
Could I plumb the SWG so that it runs up vertically to create space? See my pic below
Re: SWCG install?
That’s basically what I did although I put the cell in the vertical pipe just so it would be easier to access. Also depends on length of each pipe run.
I also put a check valve between the heater and SWG to keep chlorine out of heater. Not sure if check valve was truly necessary but seem like easy insurance for the heater.
That’s basically what I did although I put the cell in the vertical pipe just so it would be easier to access. Also depends on length of each pipe run.
I also put a check valve between the heater and SWG to keep chlorine out of heater. Not sure if check valve was truly necessary but seem like easy insurance for the heater.
Re: SWCG install?
Would you be willing to post a few pics of your setup including both plumbing and electric?
patf11 said:
Would you be willing to post a few pics of your setup including both plumbing and electric?
Re: SWCG install?
I am out of town for a few days. Will try to remember pictures when I return.
I am out of town for a few days. Will try to remember pictures when I return.
Re: SWCG install?
The install manual for an Easy Touch 4 can be downloaded from here.
Looking at pages 19-20 it appears all you need to do for electrical is to plug cable from IC20/40 into socket that exists in control center. Might want to take a look at your control center, if you have socket and transformer then you are all set, otherwise contact Pentair about adding.
I have DIY control system; my electrical is guaranteed not to match yours. Will get some plumbing pictures when I get home.
The install manual for an Easy Touch 4 can be downloaded from here.
Looking at pages 19-20 it appears all you need to do for electrical is to plug cable from IC20/40 into socket that exists in control center. Might want to take a look at your control center, if you have socket and transformer then you are all set, otherwise contact Pentair about adding.
I have DIY control system; my electrical is guaranteed not to match yours. Will get some plumbing pictures when I get home.
Re: SWCG install?
Got wife to take picture of IC40 install with her cell phone. Hopefully quality is adequate to give you idea of install.
Bypass is optional, I put it in to control flow thru SWG as well as ability to remove SWG during winter months.
Got wife to take picture of IC40 install with her cell phone. Hopefully quality is adequate to give you idea of install.
Bypass is optional, I put it in to control flow thru SWG as well as ability to remove SWG during winter months.
Re: SWCG install?
Thanks for the pic. I am confused by the bypass. If the SWG is removed what do you plug the opening in the PVC that the SWG occupied? Is that painted PVC? Did you need to buy the power converter for the SWG? I assume the answer is yes. Did you do the connection from your SWG to your panel yourself?
Thanks,
patf11 said:Got wife to take picture of IC40 install with her cell phone. Hopefully quality is adequate to give you idea of install.
Bypass is optional, I put it in to control flow thru SWG as well as ability to remove SWG during winter months.
Thanks for the pic. I am confused by the bypass. If the SWG is removed what do you plug the opening in the PVC that the SWG occupied? Is that painted PVC? Did you need to buy the power converter for the SWG? I assume the answer is yes. Did you do the connection from your SWG to your panel yourself?
Thanks,
Similar threads
