First water test results...what does it all mean?

[Heather_A]

***I originally posted this in my first thread on leveling the pool, but thought I better copy it and post it here, so that it would be seen***

Hello to my cool-pool-buddies!

Well, we've got the pool up, almost completely level (waaaay better than before...I think we're within an inch or less this time!) and we're almost finished filling it with water. I'm trying to get some pictures on here, but I'm still working on that...been so busy with the pool, I haven't folded clothes or gone grocery shopping in 2 weeks! LOL..we have piles of clean clothes in the hallway...they are sorted into colors and clean, just not folded..so, for now, we're digging! And, the other night, I had to go to the store for butter and milk....we were totally out and couldn't even make dinner! **sigh** well, I did say I wanted us to focus on the pool and nothing else till it was up, level and filling up with water!

but, I digress...I took a water sample yesterday (not filtered yet, because we are still filling and can't turn on the filtration system yet.) This is water just out of the hose (county water, not well water), and the test kit I have is an Aquachem?? kit. It tests for FC, BR, CC and pH (little tubes, fill 'em with water then drop yellow or red drops in and read color chart.)

Here's what I've got: 15,000 gallon pool (not quite full yet) - **according to pool calculator, I'm getting more like 19,000 gallons when it's full, not 15,000??**
FC = 1.0
BR = 2.2
CC = 1.5
pH = almost 7.6 (on the low side of 7.6)

The water looks light yellow...FWIW

Do any of these numbers mean anything right now?

Oh, I have to buy a patch kit...bummer...small squirting leak on the side, might be one on the bottom, too...but whatever......just gotta fix it! I'm going to need to get in the pool to fix it, however, I wanted to wait to get in till my chemistry in the pool is right, but I need to get this fixed, is there any reason I can't get in right now?

Any help would be appreciated...I've been to the pool calculator, but as dumb as this may sound, I'm not sure what my target numbers should be...I'm sure I'm missing something and one of you will be able to direct me.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Richard320]

FC = 1.0
BR = 2.2
CC = 1.5
pH = almost 7.6 (on the low side of 7.6)

With fresh water you know you'll need CYA and chlorine. With yellow water, I suspect Iron. It's a faint yellow-orange rust color but the pool liner makes it look yellow. So first thing, it may turn bright green when you add bleach. Don't freak out. It may also turn rusty and cloudy. Also don't freak out if that happens. A lot of that rust dust will filter out and when you backwash, it's gone. Or it may just fade away, that's common, too.

So... with zero CYA, you need to target 3 on the FC. You can dump that in right away, as soon as you have water moving with the pump. While that's mixing, add enough CYA granules in a sock to get to 30- 40 target. A 4 lb container ought to be a good start on that. If it doesn't all fit in one sock, use two. By the time that is all done, the bleach should have mixed and you can test the water again. FC should still be near 3. pH and TA are what you need to know, in case you need to adjust the pH now that it's been moving in the pool. Don't bother testing CYA; it won't register for a few days after it's all dissolved.

And if it turns colors, don't panic. Worst case, it stays tinted for a couple days and you need to buy a sequestrant.

 

[Heather_A]

Ok, we put bleach in last night, and honestly the pool looks less yellow. It's nice and sparkly. We're making a trip to Leslie's pool store today, I'm taking a sample in to see what results they get and we're going to need the CYA And maybe one if those Taylor test kits. Thanks for the info, Richard! Just curious, if we decide to switch to salt water, will it be difficult to switch after beginning with liquid chemicals?

 

[Richard320]

Nope. That's the best way. Get everything squared away and then add salt.

 

[Heather_A]

Here are the results from the pool store:
FC: 2
TAC: 2
CH: 100
Cya: 0
TA: 60
pH: 7.8
Cooper and iron: 0
TDS: 100

The things on the to do list are : CH, CYA, & TA
They have recommended Alkalinity Up (10lbs 1oz)(for TA) also, water conditioner (5lbs 14 oz)(for CYA) and, hardness plus (33lbs 12oz)(for CH)

I went ahead and bought the alkalinity up and water conditioner (I realize I could have probably used something from the grocery isle, but they were nice enough to test the water at no charge, so I kind of felt obligated this time.). I did not buy the hardness plus.

I'm looking at the instructions on the alkalinity up, and the paper given to me says I should add 10lbs 1oz, all at once. BUT, the bucket says 1.5 lbs per 10,000 will raise the TA by 10ppm. Based on my current reading, it looks like the full 10lbs might be a little much. Then 4 hrs later I should add the 5lbs of CYA, and let the pump run for 72 hrs, then retest. Dies this sound reasonable? They were out of Taylor test kit, I'll have to see what I can find tomorrow, otherwise I'll have to order a test kit online.

 

[Richard320]

Good move, skipping the Calcium. Your pool doesn't need it, since it's not plaster.

The Alkalinity Increaser, I'd only put 5 lbs in. It keeps, and you can always add more easily enough. Too much will drive the pH up.

The CYA dose looks right. It doesn't need to wait. Just tie it in a sock and set it in the skimmer or hang it in front of a return.

They neglected to mention that you should be targeting 3 on FC right now with zero CYA. As that starts to dissolve, target 4 when it looks halfway dissolved, and by the time it's all gone, you should be targeting 5 or 6, whatever it takes to ensure the FC doesn't drop below 3 before the next addition.