Still cloudy after a month

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coachdorsey

coachdorsey

0
Jun 6, 2014
12
Elizabethton, TN
Ok just tested my water with the just received Taylor K2006 FAS-DPD chlorine kit. This was after a third attempt to flock our pool. Here are the results.

FC - .06 ppm
CC - .04 ppm
TA - 110 ppm
pH - 7.1
CH - 390 ppm
CYA - 72 ppm

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Your water is cloudy because you don't have any chlorine. Algae is growing, but just hasn't gone insane yet. It's critical that you maintain chlorine at the minimum level per the Chlorine CYA Chart at all times. For CYA at 72, you need to be at 5ppm or higher at all times.

Follow the process for SLAMing Your Pool and you should see a big improvement very quickly.

Your CYA is already high, so you need to stop using any form of stabilized chlorine. That would include dichlor or trichlor shock or any kind of tablets. Your CH is pretty high as well, so you should avoid calcium hypochlorite shock as well.
 
If you're constantly keeping the FC level at shock ppm, which you should do as much as possible during SLAM, it's not safe to swim in. If FC is below shock level it is safe to swim. However, the more you let it drift below shock FC during a SLAM the longer is usually takes to complete the SLAM process. I'd recommend doing a high consistency testing/dosing SLAM (as much as every hour) which will shorten the process and make the pool ready for full time use sooner. You can also accelerate water clarity improvements during the latter part of a SLAM using small amounts of DE in your sand filter. See instructions for that here: Add DE to a Sand Filter
 
Thank you. I noticed you have a Tiger Shark. I have a Tiger Sharl QC that is 8 years old. The handle broke and it stopped running at the end of last year. While it was working I loved it. Do you think it would be worth trying to repair or would it be better to just by a new one?
 
A new robot is likely to set toy back at least $600 if you're looking for something similar. I got lucky and didn't have to fix the robot I inherited with the pool but I do like it now that I cleaned up the filters and got a high velocity inlet attachment. I would guess mine is at least as old as yours. See if you can find replacement parts online. I'll do some digging as well.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Looks like you can get a replacement handle for about $40 plus shipping. http://www.poolpartsonline.com/p-84...qc-plus-cleaner-parts-hayward-pool-parts.aspx

You said the motor wasn't working either? Was that related to the handle? Such as it would run but not maneuver properly?

The motor unit is more like $400 and might be tricky to replace but probably doable for the mechanically inclined.

A new one of the same model is around $850 dollars. Smaller Hayward units such as the Sharkvac are closer to $600. I've heard good things overall about Dolphin robots on this site and they range about the same for the small and midsize units.

The only question is for yourself. Is the rest of the robot in good shape such as drive belts, brushes, filters, cord, control unit, etc. That plus your willingness to self-repair is an option. I've never looked into the manufacturer or other vendor that might do robot reconditioning/repair but that could be an option.
 
Well the brushes, upon closer inspection, are about done. I may try the handle, but it looks like a new one will fit the bill better because I can do some things but not real confident in replacing a motor. I'll research the Dolphin brand as that's what I did with this one and it has been great but $895 right before vacation....
 
Water Test from this morning:(Still cloudy but can barely see the bottom in the 3' end which could not be done yesterday)


FC - 2.1 ppm
CC - 0 ppm
TA - 150 ppm
pH - 7.4
CH - 300 ppm
CYA - 100 ppm

Added 3.25 lbs of baking soda
Added 5 gallons of 8% liquid chlorine

Wanted to know since my daughter is wanting to swim, if while we were out of town towards the end of the month if we could SLAM it before we leave while no one would be swimming?
 
What are you using for testing? The CYA level shouldn't have changed significantly from last time. That suggests to me that your test results might not be reliable.

Also, if CYA really is around 100 you have a significant problem. You are going to need to replace water to get the CYA level down significantly. On the other hand, even if CYA is around 70, you aren't using nearly enough chlorine. To clear algae with CYA around 70 you need to raise FC up to around 28 to make real progress agains algae (much higher than that if CYA is 100).
 

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Hi Coach. I'm fairly new to the forums, but not to pool care. The guys on here are fantastic! JVTrain has given you some great advice, keep going! I would say that if your pool would require additional slamming by the time you go away that it would be a perfect time to do it. Keep your FC up to 5 and you might not have to. I also noticed your CYA went up. Keep a close eye on this. How are you testing it? It's imperative that it is done properly. The higher you get, particularly above 100 ppm the more sanitizer your water will require to maintain it. Replacing some water may be a better solution. Good decision switching to liquid chlorine. With your sand filter it should make it easy to clear your pool, backwash a few times or change sand if it hasn't been done in a few years. Good luck! Happy swimming!


See how great these guys are?!! LOL JasonLion already posted a great response even before I could finish mine.
 
Taylor K2006 FAS-DPD chlorine kit is what I'm using and it says to keep adding drops to the smaller test tube until you can't see a black dot on the bottom. Does that mean until you cannot even see the outline or until it is totally out of sight? I'll test it again right now
 
Reading this thread......it sounds like you are not following the SLAM process. You need to raise your FC to the shock level according to your CYA. Chart is here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

And you need to MAINTAIN that CL level until SLAM is complete. Testing as often as possible and dosing with more chlorine(bleach) to keep it there. No less than twice a day...more often is better.

Your CYA is very high, so lowering that with a partial drain will facilitate the process.

As to the "safe to swim" question, I would say absolutely not if water is cloudy. That is a safety issue.
 
coachdorsey said:
Water Test from this morning:(Still cloudy but can barely see the bottom in the 3' end which could not be done yesterday)


FC - 2.1 ppm
CC - 0 ppm
TA - 150 ppm
pH - 7.4
CH - 300 ppm
CYA - 100 ppm

Added 3.25 lbs of baking soda
Added 5 gallons of 8% liquid chlorine
Click to expand...

During a SLAM you don't need to be adjusting anything except your CL. You begin a SLAM knowing that high CL levels will negate any pH testing so you want to start at about 7.2 and ignore it until after you're through. If you have a high CYA level you have to exchange water out to get it to a lower CYA level before you start your SLAM.

Keep reading and re-reading if necessary the Pool School articles on SLAMing your pool. Everyone posting on this website wants you to do this as quickly and economically as possible so your daughter can get back in there!!
 
Ok...I partially drained the pool to get the CYA under control. My test results are as follows:

FC - 16.5 ppm
CC - 0 ppm
TA - 140 ppm
pH - 7.3
CH - 225 ppm
CYA - 67 ppm

It is still cloudy but I can see debris on the bottom in the shallow end. Going to vaccuum and backwash shortly.

Do I need to add more 8.25% chlorine? Vaccuum twice daily?

Thanks.
 
coachdorsey said:
Ok...I partially drained the pool to get the CYA under control. My test results are as follows:

FC - 16.5 ppm
CC - 0 ppm
TA - 140 ppm
pH - 7.3
CH - 225 ppm
CYA - 67 ppm

It is still cloudy but I can see debris on the bottom in the shallow end. Going to vaccuum and backwash shortly.

Do I need to add more 8.25% chlorine? Vaccuum twice daily?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

According to the Chlorine CYA Chart, shock level for your CYA level is 28ppm, so you need more chlorine to maximize your kill power.

Vacuuming twice a day might be overkill. At least brush it a couple of times a day and vacuum as often as you can squeeze it in.
 
coachdorsey said:
Ok...I partially drained the pool to get the CYA under control. My test results are as follows:

FC - 16.5 ppm
CC - 0 ppm
TA - 140 ppm
pH - 7.3
CH - 225 ppm
CYA - 67 ppm

It is still cloudy but I can see debris on the bottom in the shallow end. Going to vaccuum and backwash shortly.

Do I need to add more 8.25% chlorine? Vaccuum twice daily?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I am still confused on how your get a 67 value for CYA - I've done the test 100 times and for me it is so hard to get that finite...not trying to cause trouble, just trying to learn.
 

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