Bright Green (but clear) pool after using too much chlorine

Jun 5, 2014
60
Marmora, New Jersey
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Don't know if anyone on here has any idea but here is a situation I put myself into.

1. I recently had my fiberglass pool resurfaced with a couple coats of white gel.. I had to do it as the pool being an
older model started to get blisters which had to be repaired before they went completely through the shell.

2. I have to use well water to fill the pool so I am aware that right off the bat I will be dealing with metal problems
especially since the pool is bright white.. I use an expensive product called a metal trap which is supposed to
trap most of the metal before it enters the pool. Of course it flows through your fill hose but believe me it takes
forever.

3 Now my 10,000 gallon pool is filled with the new treated well water. Test showed the ph at 7.4 and Alkalinity at 101 ppm.
My local pool store which I have dealt with
for many years suggested that before I added any chlorine, I should put in a product made by SunGuard called
metal-out plus. Even though we tested the water and it did not show any signs of metal he said that many
time the metal ions are the culprit when staining becomes a problem and he felt that by circulating this product
which is a Sequestrant for 2 or 3 days prior to adding the chlorine would be cheap insurance. In fact he
suggested I double the dose from what the instructions called for.

3. Two day after the treatment of a bright beautifully clear pool I wake up to a pool so cloudy that you could not see
the vacuum head in the 3 ft. shallow end. The DE filter was totally clogged and had to be taken apart. I
e-mailed the manufacture and they stated that they felt that I had hard water and the calcium precipitated out
causing the extremely cloudy condition. They also said it will correct itself but would take a few days and also a
couple more cleanings of the DE filter.

4 Sure enough they were right. It too every bit of 5 days running the filter 24 / 7. The pool was looking great but
remember, I still have not added any chlorine as we live in a colder climate and the water was still in the 60's.

5. Finally after getting a couple 80 degree days I decide it was time to chlorinate. I put in a double dose to make
sure I was ahead of any algae problems. WRONG WRONG WRONG .

6. Within 6 hours of adding the chlorine, the pool turned bright green (but still very clear).

7. I went back to my pool store and told them what happened and they suggested using a product to lower the
chlorine which I did. My initial chlorine reading was off the chart over 6 ppm and after using this chlorine
neutralizing product called Baqua Start, my chlorine reading is at zero.

8. Guess what,,, the pool is still green and now I have to be careful since the water temp is in the mid 70's that
I don't start running into an algae problem and compound problems.

9.... ANY SUGGESTIONS OR THOUGHT ??? Been a pool owner for 25 years and have never had an issue
anything like this.

:-:)-:)-(
 
Test result done by pool store.

No chlorine had been added at this point...

7.4 PH
92 Hardness
101 Alkalinity (w/stabilizer correction)
28 Cyanuric Acid
0 copper
0 iron


Test were performed prior to the adding the sequestrant. Using my own test kit levels are about the same.. Can't test for the metals with my own kit.
 
5. Finally after getting a couple 80 degree days I decide it was time to chlorinate. I put in a double dose to make
sure I was ahead of any algae problems.......

Exactly what did you add and how much?

Did you add CYA separately?

For now I suggest that you:

1. lower pH to about 7.2 wait about half an hour/retest/confirm and then
2. add about 2 or 3 ppm chlorine in the form of bleach/liquid chlorine (use PoolMath to calculate dose) Wait about half an hour and then...
3. add a sequesrant start-up dose - make sure it is one of the recommended types on our list
4. run pump/filter 24/7

Take a before and after pic for yourself and us :smile:

No need to test for metals. You have them. They may not show up on a test when they are coloring making the water look green.

Which test kit do you have?
 
I used ascorbic acid Sat. Cleared every stain looked beautiful, put sequesturant in on Monday, woke up Tues to cloudy water. You have to start slow putting chlorine back in. I'm keeping mine at 3.0 and ph at 7.2. Or it will turn greenish again. Still running my filter 24/7. Follow what these folks say......they know but you have to get a test kit!
 
Thanks for the advice. I will start right away but I may have jumped the gun a little. The ph is still at 7.4. I already put in a product called Metaltreat made by United Chemical Corp. No one local has the sequestrant you suggested. I put two chlorine pucks in the skimmer. This was done about 2 hrs. ago. I will have to order a couple quarts of the sequestrant you suggested. Hope I didn't make more of a problem. The pool store said the Metaltreat was a top shelf product and contain Tricurboxylic acid/ Phophonbutane. I took pictures and will post an update tomorrow.

Thanks again
Gary Blizzard
fmblizz
 
Gary,

You are being pool stored as we watch. Every time you go in there they sell you another magic product. Stop, take a deep breath and say it's going to get better....

Listen to the folks here. They don't have their hand in your pocket looking for your cash. Certain products react poorly with other products, its a fact. The suggestions you get here for specific products are made because they have been proven not to cause larger problems down the road.
 
Sequestrants based on HEDP, phosphonic acid, or phosphonic acid derivatives are the most effective. ProTeam's Metal Magic and Jack's Magic The Pink Stuff (regular), The Blue Stuff (fresh plaster), and The Purple Stuff (salt) are some of the top sequestrants. You can also find many other brands with similar active ingredients, some of which are noticeably less expensive.

^^ Check around

Please answer the three questions in my other post. :wink:



smforte said:
I used ascorbic acid Sat. Cleared every stain looked beautiful, put sequesturant in on Monday, woke up Tues to cloudy water. You have to start slow putting chlorine back in. I'm keeping mine at 3.0 and ph at 7.2. Or it will turn greenish again. Still running my filter 24/7. Follow what these folks say......they know but you have to get a test kit!
whoa! I hope we can avoid an AA treatment in the future by sequestering the metals and avoiding stains :smile:
 
Fmblizz, Please add some into to your "signature". And welcome to the forum !!

Profile
Please put the city and state in which you live in your profile. Your climate is important to the advice you receive.

Signature
Please put the following information in your signature.
1. The size of your pool in gallons
2. If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
3. If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
4. The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the size, model number or flow rate of the filter.
5. If you know, please tell us the size pump in HP. Also mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
6. Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
7. Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner
 
As requested by the moderator I use the following within the past 12 hours...

Metaltreat made by United Chemical Corp. + 1 qt.
CYA was not added.. stabilizer built into the 3" chlorine pucks
2 pucks added..

running filter 24/7
pool temp is 76 deg.f.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
As requested by the moderator I use the following within the past 12 hours...

Metaltreat made by United Chemical Corp. + 1 qt.
CYA was not added.. stabilizer built into the 3" chlorine pucks
2 pucks added..

running filter 24/7
pool temp is 76 deg. C.

okay, thanks.

It would help to have your location & signature, as kiss4afrog mentioned. Go to and select "settings" top right under Pool School button. Then scroll down (left side) to 'edit profile' and then 'edit sig'.

What test kit are you using?

We need to see:
FC
CC
TA
CYA
CH

If you did not add any CYA, other than with the two stabilized pucks, then the CYA test result cannot be correct.
 
I tried 3 pool stores in my area and none carried the Proteam sequestrant or Jack's Magic Pink Stuff. Looks like I will have to order it from Amazon or Ebay so it's going to take a few day.

Pool is looking better this morning after the the Metaltreat application but I still am going for the recommended Proteam or Jack's product. The pool appears to be coming around. Going to get a water test done but my own test kit showed PH at 7.3 and FC around 2ppm. Stabilizer using Dip Strips just about at the 30 ppm range.

I would lower the ph a little more but I know from previous experience it plays **** with the grandkid's eyes so I'm trying to maintain the 7.3 for now.

Pictures will be posted tomorrow as a 3 day event/progress.

Thanks to all the members for their input.

fmblizz
 
If you don't have one of the recommended test kits, you need one. The TF100 is the fav around here. Link in my sig.

We don't trust test strips at all.

If the CYA/stabilizer is 30, then you need to maintain FC between 2 and 6 and never below 2.

After you get the metals issue resolved, you should follow Recommended Levels in Pool School here http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/134-recommended-levels
You will want to work on the CH to help protect the new FG.
 
I only use the strips as a quick look at the numbers. I use a liquid test kit that contains the usual oto-50 for the Chlorine/Bromine test as well as the Phenol -Red for ph and a three part system for determining Alkalinity numbers. I will certainly look into purchasing the TF100.

Also concerning the hardness I was always under the impression that the CH was mostly important on plaster/concrete pools. I will purchase 5 lbs of calcium plus and start to work on getting that number in range but I'm always afraid to correct more than one thing at a time for fear I might get a couple chemicals that don't like each other.

Things are definitely looking better today.

fmblizz
 
I only use the strips as a quick look at the numbers. I use a liquid test kit that contains the usual oto-50 for the Chlorine/Bromine test as well as the Phenol -Red for ph and a three part system for determining Alkalinity numbers. I will certainly look into purchasing the TF100.

Also concerning the hardness I was always under the impression that the CH was mostly important on plaster/concrete pools. I will purchase 5 lbs of calcium plus and start to work on getting that number in range but I'm always afraid to correct more than one thing at a time for fear I might get a couple chemicals that don't like each other.

Things are definitely looking better today.

fmblizz

Good to hear things are looking better.

The OTO (yellow drop test) will test for the presence of chlorine from zero to 5, not 50. Ignore the BRomine side, you have a chlorine pool. The FAS/DPD test (which is included with the recommended test kits) will test FC up to 50!

Wait until all things are corrected w/chlorine, metals/sequestrant, etc. before you do anything with CH. For more info on why we recommend 220 to 320 CH for FG pools, you can search (top right) for 'calcium hardness and fiberglass pools'.
 
I wanted to post a couple pictures of the progress I made with while dealing with my iridescent green pool. Keep in mind,, at no point was the pool cloudy. The water just changed colors very quickly..

These pictures were taken over a 3 day period but the weather on first and second day was slightly overcast.

You might recall I could not find the recommended sequestrant locally and i'm still waiting for my order. In the meantime I did what was recommended on this forum and lowered the ph in the area of 7.2 - 7.3. I added a sequestrant product called Metaltreat to try and get things moving in the right direction while I waited for my Proteam order to come in ( which it still hasn't). As you will see in the pictures I am totally satisfied with the results and now have a crystal clear well balanced pool with the exception of the hardness which I am slowly bringing into range. I have absoulutely no visible signs of any metal staining. The free Chlorine is holding quite well at 1.5ppm using a single 3inch chlorine puck. During hot weather I do add additional granular chlorine occasionally depending on the pool load.

I am including a link to a very informative article explaining the situation that I apparently put myself into. The biggest thing I got out of the article was when you are dealing with metal in pool water and you have sequestered it, any drastic change be it in ph, alkalinity or oxidizer will have an effect on the sequestrant causing the sequestered metals to drop out. In my case I basically shocked the pool after using the sequestrant and this action was most likely what made my pool (light up) to the green color when the metals dropped out. Once I lowered both the chlorine and the ph and added a new dose of sequestrant, things started to turn around as you can easily see. Like most pool owners I wanted to see immediate result but it was a three day process. My main concern was the total Chlorine count being low during this process but I gradually added more each day to keep any algae growth in check.

This is the link that I feel was very educational at least for me and anyone dealing with metal problems in their water would benefit from taking a look at it....... http://www.splashingh2o.com/Metal_Stain_Remover.html

The proof is in the pudding...

View attachment 30380View attachment 30381View attachment 30382
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.