Brand New Jandy Lxi not firing

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andyoi630

0
Aug 30, 2013
150
Maryland
So,
I finally got my pool running today. 400k Jandy Lxi Heater has been here about 6 months.

Does not seem to be working. Starts up, but after a few minutes says Ignition Fault. I can see the ignitor lighting through the sightglass, but no flames.

Any ideas?
 
So Jandy is sending a tech, but not for a few weeks. Was hoping to be able to use this sooner.

Gas company found adequate supply pressure up to the gas valve. But the other side of the gas valve in the heater always reads 0" WC, even when the heater is trying to light. Valve has 24VAC to it and the knob on it is turned to ON.

Can you adjust the valve outlet pressure? Like maybe it's forced closed somehow?
 
danpik said:
NO. Please do not attempt any adjustments on a gas valve. These are all factory set and are not field serviceable. Sounds like there is no signal voltage to the valve. Best to wait on the tech for this one.
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Interesting. After posting this I found in the Jandy LXI Manual where it says to adjust the gas valve if the outlet pressure is wrong, so now I'm confused.

There is voltage to the valve, 24 VAC as measured.
 
What they are saying is for experienced people to do. In your case, you have an issue that won't be just an adjustment to the gas valve. These units are usually quality control tested in the factory to make sure all is working.

When the unit is working correctly and a call for heat is signaled, you can usually hear and feel the gas valve click. If you aren't hearing or feeling a click, then you have another issue. Possibly the control module. But do NOT mess with the gas valve pressure.
 
Could be the igniter. I had a same issue with my home water heater, you could see the igniter get red hot through the peep glass, but still wouldn't light, turned out to be bad igniter. Does it have any residue on it? That can cause issues.
 

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If the ignitor glows and you can hear the gas valve open and smell the gas, then try blowing into the burner assembly. Sometimes the gas does not flow over to the ignitor. If you get full flame after that then you may need to clean the jets and manifold with a vacuum cleaner and possibly re-position the ignitor.
 
Bugman1400 said:
If the ignitor glows and you can hear the gas valve open and smell the gas, then try blowing into the burner assembly. Sometimes the gas does not flow over to the ignitor. If you get full flame after that then you may need to clean the jets and manifold with a vacuum cleaner and possibly re-position the ignitor.
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Not xso sure getting your face into that area to blow into it and having it ignite is such a great idea. Especially if you value your health. If you did this and it was propane, you could see it light for the last time as the ball of flames could take your eyes out. Seriously.

Do NOT attempt this.
 
ps0303 said:
Not xso sure getting your face into that area to blow into it and having it ignite is such a great idea. Especially if you value your health. If you did this and it was propane, you could see it light for the last time as the ball of flames could take your eyes out. Seriously.

Do NOT attempt this.
Click to expand...

Didn't he mean with it off and the gas off
 
ps0303 said:
Not xso sure getting your face into that area to blow into it and having it ignite is such a great idea. Especially if you value your health. If you did this and it was propane, you could see it light for the last time as the ball of flames could take your eyes out. Seriously.

Do NOT attempt this.
Click to expand...

I've never had a problem yet. This is a common method to diagnose commercial gas dryers too. I am not indicating to stick your face into the burner but, a couple of feet away should be enough. If you are applying positive pressure then the gas would flow away from you and anything that lights will also flow away from you. The instant you hear the swoosh of combustion then it makes sense to pull away. Its up to you. There are many times I would get a glowing ignitor, a click of the gas valve, and no combustion followed by blowing towards the burners and then get combustion. Afterwards, the flame and heat would burn off whatever was causing the problem and the unit would work again. This is typical during the first firing of the season.
 
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