Pool Opening - Help please - Newbe

oohnoo

0
Sep 5, 2012
51
LI, NY
This will be my 2nd year opening the pool and could use a little help. Opened it yesterday to a slightly green pool (18'x34' 23k gal). After getting everything hooked up and running first thing I did was throw in 2 gals of chlorine. It started to clear up some as I could start to see the bottom but still cloudy. I then proceeded to vacuumed the pool but I'm amazed to how much **** gets in there when I have a solid Loop-Loc cover. Just not sure if I should SLAM it or just get the levels up. Parameters are as follows.
pH - 7.2
FAC - 7.5
TA - 8
CYA - 55
Salt - Pool Pilot says 2700ppm and to add 62lbs but when tested with the Talyor test kit it says 2200ppm. Meanwhile the AquaChek test strip says 2390

When I get home today I have to bump the DE filter as I just had enough to get the filter going. It's a Hayward DE4820 which recommends 6 lbs of DE. Question I do have is after I bump it how much more should I add. Sorry my memory is not as it used to be, sucks getting older.
 
After a backwash, you add 80% of the 6 lbs they call for. If you open it up and clean the screens 100%, then you need the full 6 lbs. I checked the manual, yours is not one of the bump-style filters.

I can't comment on the chemistry. Those numbers don't look right. We need CC as well. And where did 8 TA come from?

If the pool is green and cloudy and there is debris in the bottom, you need a SLAM. It goes faster if you get that stuff out of the water early on. Otherwise the bleach is wasted trying to break down leaves instead of killing algae.
 
My bad, TA is 80
And by Bump I meant Backwash. What's CC ?
Pool is not green now and is semi clear within a couple of hours after opening it. I have vacuumed it but still need to backwash the filer. Should I still SLAM it? CYA is a little low so I should increase that first before slamming? Pool Calculator says I need to add 8gals chlorine and 61oz of stabilizer.
 
My bad, TA is 80
And by Bump I meant Backwash. What's CC ?
Pool is not green now and is semi clear within a couple of hours after opening it. I have vacuumed it but still need to backwash the filer. Should I still SLAM it? CYA is a little low so I should increase that first before slamming? Pool Calculator says I need to add 8gals chlorine and 61oz of stabilizer.

Looks like you need some reading/refresher in ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry!
 
Back washed filter and got it all re-tested. AND the pool looks nice and clear, can see bottom now. Results as follows:
FC - 4
CC - .5
TA - 70
CH - 55

So with these results do I still SLAM it or just bring numbers up to specs. I'm guessing get the CH up first by adding 159oz of liquid stabilizer. Then once that's done add 65lbs of salt or can I do that at any time?
 
Is it still clear? Not cloudy or hazy or green again? The FC level is still good? Maybe you got lucky and don't need a SLAM.

If you are going to raise CYA up (CH and CYA are two very different things) for your saltwater generator, aim low. Your pool may not be as big as you think., You can always add more later if it's low. If you go too high, the only solution is a partial drain. To get to 70, I see 119 oz. A gallon of the liquid stabilizer is 128 oz. That's close enough.
 
Crystal clear as I can see the details of the vinyl at the bottom of the deep end now. Guess I panicked a little. LoL
Yes my bad CYA.....added a gal of the stabilizer yesterday and will test again tonight. When I had the pool built I made the shallow end 48" of actual water depth which might be the reason for more water volume.

I thinking of modifying my Loop-Lok cover next year as it seems it lets a lot of dirt and **** from the trees to get under it and into the pool, especially the pollen stuff from the oak trees which probably gave it that green look when I opened it.

Another question if you don't mind. Pump run time........I've always ran it for 8 hours as per the pool builder. My pump is a 2-speed and I would like to run it at low speed for energy savings. How long should I run it or should I start another thread on it.
 

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