Calcium High?

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gripenfelter

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May 17, 2014
3
Midland, Texas
Hi, I'm new to the forum, and new pool owner, and just opened my pool. I have a TF-100 kit and ran my first tests.

Equipment:

Pentair Easytouch
Pentair Intellichem
Pentair IH-40 SWG
Pentair Clean and Clear Plus Cartridge filter

13,000 Gallon pool
FC 3.5
CC 0
pH 7.4
TA 70
CYA 30
CH 1300 I have tested this 3 times with the same results.
Salt 4200
TDS 6800 (from pool store)

My question is is this correct? Is there anyway to verify? Suggestions? The fill water they have to use here is well water trucked in because of drought conditions. The ground water here is known for its hardness. The water is beautiful, the CSI stays around -.09 on the intellichem, and I have to add about 12-16 oz a day of acid.

Thanks

Edited: for Salt and TDS
 
gripenfelter said:
My question is is this correct? Is there anyway to verify? Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Welcome to TFP :wave:

Yes...it probably is. You did verify it.....3 times. :smile: You are going to need to watch your pH like a hawk. Ideally you need to replace water but that may not be an option for you. Can you test the fill water the next time you've got a chance? That can give you and idea of what you're getting.
 
Test your tap water CH level both to double check your test skills and to get an idea of how much of a CH issue you are going to have on an ongoing basis.

It is possible to manage high CH levels, but you are right near the upper limit for what can be managed. If you have a SWG you will have scaling in the cell at these levels.

I get a CSI of +0.2 to +0.3 depending on assumptions about the salt level. That is as high as you should let it get. Don't miss any acid additions, as you could have scaling problems fairly quickly if you stopped adding acid regularly. You can let TA go down a little more, say to 60, which will help just a little.
 
Welcome to TFP!

I would certainly trust the TF-100 test results. Calcium does not leave the water when the water evaporates and each time you need to add water the calcium level increases, which leads to the levels you have now. To prevent calcium scaling make sure the pH stays low, I would keep it between 7.2-7.4 range.
 
Hi everyone and thank you for the welcome.

I did test both the fill water (auto fill with municipal water) and R/O we have at the house this morning, all tested using a speedstir. Fill is 475 from the city and R/O was of course 0. Would you suggest a partial drain and refill? My salt level is also high, which I failed to note above. It is 4200 from the initial opening and TDS from the pool store says 6800 (I have edited above to show this).

I believe my problem stems from the plaster cure and something the builder did. The plaster was lighter than it was suppose to be with some blemishes. The builder used a lower ph in the water to leech more Calcium (I'm assuming here) to darken the plaster up. This, again assuming, caused a build up in the current water. Add that to the natural hard water we have here and we are where we are at.

Right now I am at a pH level of 7.4 (brought down from rising to 7.8 overnight), 680 ORP level with a CSI of -.16 and Salt showing at 4350 (according to the intellichem).
 
Time for some rainwater harvesting.

OR ... seeing as you are in midland, get a watertruck. There are more than enough going to and from the drill sites around there.
 
ouch. I would keep an eye on it and if you start getting scale do an RO fill or see about having an RO truck out to the house.

$1,000 for 10K gallons of RO water is certainly cheaper than acid washing scale or replastering if it gets really ugly.
 
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