Pool Chemistry

rclift

0
Sep 10, 2013
22
So I opened the pool added some shock and algeacide. The pump has been running for a few days and the water is clear. I had the water tested and here are the results:

CYA - 100
Total Chlorine - 2.3
Free Chlorine - 0
Ph - 7.5
Total Alkalinity - 100
Adj. Total Alkalinity - 70
Total Hardness - 196

The pool store says (I guess they need a new truck!!):

Add - 22lbs Balance Pak 100 (raise total alkalinity)
Add - 3.5 Lo 'N Slo (I guess the lowers the ph from the alkalinity adjustment)
Add - 10 bags of Burn Out3 (shock)


I have read quite a bit about pool chemistry but I see so many different options I just can't put things together.

Can you guys advise on the best route? Thanks,
 
There are only 2 opinions, our method and theirs.

Ours states that cornerstone is using your own good test kit. Without that, we can not offer useful advise based on questionable pool store testing.

If that CYA is correct, then you will need to start with replacing a lot of water.
 
So I opened the pool added some shock and algeacide. The pump has been running for a few days and the water is clear. I had the water tested and here are the results:

CYA - 100
Total Chlorine - 2.3
Free Chlorine - 0
Ph - 7.5
Total Alkalinity - 100
Adj. Total Alkalinity - 70
Total Hardness - 196

The pool store says (I guess they need a new truck!!):

Add - 22lbs Balance Pak 100 (raise total alkalinity)
Add - 3.5 Lo 'N Slo (I guess the lowers the ph from the alkalinity adjustment)
Add - 10 bags of Burn Out3 (shock)


I have read quite a bit about pool chemistry but I see so many different options I just can't put things together.

Can you guys advise on the best route? Thanks,
The best route is to stop listening to the pool store!
1) There are countless threads here detailing test result discrepancies. Here's one of my favorites: http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/59474-Inconsistency-in-readings The solution is to get your own proper test kit. It's an investment. What a TF100 XL costs is less than that load of snake oil would cost. And no, I don't get a kickback.

2) Assuming thoise results are correct, which is highly doubtful, you need to start with a partial drain. Maintaining the FC at 100 CYA is pretty difficult. Clearing a mess is almost impossible at that level.

3) With your own believable test results and the appropriate drain to get CYA reasonable, you just need bleach to finish killing the algae or whatever that is creating the high CC levels. Free Chlorine + Combined Chlorine = Total Chlorine. If those readings are correct, you have 2.3 CC. That's too high. That indicates organics in the water.

4) To address the rest of it: TA of 100 is excellent. You don't need Balance Pack 100. It's just overpriced baking soda. About 4X the cost in the grocery store, Walmart, Costco, etc. pH is perfect, and if you don't mess it up with the overpriced baking soda, you won't need the overpriced acid. Burnout35 is Lithium Hypochlorite. That's the most expensive form of chlorine you can buy. The good news is, it doesn't add CYA. But then again, neither does bleach.

What you need is a SLAM. If you've done any reading here at all, you've encountered a thread or ten with someone doing it. Your pool may not be as ugly as theirs at the moment, but it can easily go green again if you don't take care of it quick.

To do justice to all your questions would take days of typing, and it's already been done. Start in Pool School with the ABCs of Chemistry. Then maybe mosey over to the Algae forum and read the stickies.
 
I bought the TF-50 last year and will try the test with it tonight. I didn't think things would vary that much between testing but from your statement I guess it does. I will post updates tonight. Thanks
 
Step one is to order a good test kit so you really know where you are.

The pool store CYA number is almost certainly wrong.
The best kit ( and the one most of is here use ) is the tf100. You can find the link to it in my signature.

Order it and post results when it comes in.

In the mean time don't dump anything else to pool store sells you into the pool.

If that cya number is correct you will be doing a significant water replacement, the additional cya added by solid forms of chlorine ( shock, pucks, powder) are just going to make it worse.

Read the abc,s of chemistry in pool school in detail while you wait for your kit.
 
Just to follow up here, since you have the TF-50 you can retest the CYA level, but remember this test needs to be done outdoors in full sunlight with your back to the sun for the most accurate results.

Ike
 
Do the CYA with half pool and half tap water, then regent, then double the result .... your CYA is clearly way too high and you are going to need to replace a lot of water as a first step.
 
I'm assuming that my cya will rise again over time even after the water refill due to the fact that I am using chlorine with stabilizer. Is there an alternative to using chlorine with stabilizer?
 

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Use PoolMath to calculate for you.

Once the pool is clean, it is normal to need to add 2-3ppm of chlorine every day ... which in your pool is a little more than 1/2 gallon a day.

And by running with those tablets, you have gotten your CYA too high and are now having to drain ... no such issue with bleach.
 
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