Hayward SuperPump Motor replacement

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frankan9

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Bronze Supporter
Aug 27, 2012
23
Aberdeen, New Jersey
I'm thinking about replacing my 1 Hp super pump single speed motor with a dual speed . The existing motor is A.O Smith Model C48K2N143B1 .
115/230 volt. frame is 56J. It is developing an intermittent bearing squeal and I'd like to save some money on electric costs at the same time.
Is there a replacement motor that is generally accepted as the best option? What manufacturer/Model number should I get?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Frank
 
The Century B2975 or B2975T (integrated timer) would be just the ticket for your pump. If you dont have automation the T version will be a direct bolt on without changing anything or running wires. The non T version would require appropriate switches / timers.
 
The B2975 is a larger diameter than the motor that comes with the SuperPump. Some SuperPump motor supports have a removable piece so the larger motor will work, some don't. You might want to check first before purchasing the motor.

However, if you want to avoid the issue, the STS1072RV1 is the same size as your current motor.

Also, if you decide to go with the larger motor the B2973 is a better fit for the 1 HP SuperPump.
 
The dual speed option is going to save you the most money on operational costs and the new dual speed motors with integrated digital timers are really nice. If you did end up staying with a single speed motor than the UCT1102 is the energy efficient version of the C48K2N143B1 and will save you roughly 20% on your operational costs.

When you replace your motor you will always want to replace your pumps shaft seal as if you use the old sealy many times you will have leaking and this would not be covered under the manufactures warranty. Typically the best bet is to get a Tune Up Kit which includes the shaft seal and all the o-rings and gaskets for your pump as well as lubricant, the gokit for the Hayward Super Pump is GOKIT3.
 
mas985 said:
The B2975 is a larger diameter than the motor that comes with the SuperPump. Some SuperPump motor supports have a removable piece so the larger motor will work, some don't. You might want to check first before purchasing the motor.

However, if you want to avoid the issue, the STS1072RV1 is the same size as your current motor.

Also, if you decide to go with the larger motor the B2973 is a better fit for the 1 HP SuperPump.
Click to expand...

Mark - good catch on the physical size issue with the super pump. I always forget that about the super pump.

I was suggesting the B2xxx because of the availability of an integrated timer. I think either the B2973 (3/4 horse 1.5SF total HP 1.12) or the B2975 (1hp, 1.25 SF total HP 1.25) will be fine if Franks pump has the knockout. The deciding factor should probably be whether the current pump is wired 115V (B2973) or 230v (B2975).

The STS1072RV1 is 2.2 amps at 230 vs 1.5 amps for the B2975 at 230 vs 2.2 at 115 (equivalent of 1.1 at 230) for the B2973. making the STS1072RV1 most expensive to run and the B2973 cheapest to run.

Frank - looks like you have some homework to do.

IMHO - if your superpump has the knockout for the motor the B series are the way to go. If not Mark nailed it with the STS1072RV1. If you do have the knock out you need to determine if your pump is hooked up 115 or 230. @115 go with the B2973 (or B2973T) @230 go with the B2975 (or B2975T)
 
The STS1072RV1 is 2.2 amps at 230 vs 1.5 amps for the B2975 at 230 vs 2.2 at 115 (equivalent of 1.1 at 230) for the B2973. making the STS1072RV1 most expensive to run and the B2973 cheapest to run.
Click to expand...
Not true! You are quoting motor ratings which are not the same as operating points. The amp ratings on a motor label set the maximum allowed current level only, not what the motor will actually draw. This is especially true on low speed.The RPM and the impeller dimensions set the load on the motor and since all of these motors are standard efficiency motors, they should all draw about the same power within a few watts.
 
If you look at the diagram:

http://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/Parts Diagrams/Super-Pump.pdf

There is a curved part at the back of the mounting foot (part 9). On some feet it is removeable to accommodate the larger motor. On others it requires a little dremel work. See the thread below for a description of the dremel work

http://www.troublefreepool.com/thre...amp-Hayward-SuperPump-(aka-FrankenPump)/page2

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mas985 said:
Not true! You are quoting motor ratings which are not the same as operating points. The amp ratings on a motor label set the maximum allowed current level only, not what the motor will actually draw. This is especially true on low speed.The RPM and the impeller dimensions set the load on the motor and since all of these motors are standard efficiency motors, they should all draw about the same power within a few watts.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that the "low speed" amp rating I quoted were functionally what the motor operated at when on low. Hmmm. Time to break out the VOM and see what my B2984 operates at on low.
 
A VOM will give you an incorrect answer. Amps * Voltage is not real power in an induction motor, especially at low speed. You need to take into account power factor so you need a power meter or a scope to measure the phase difference between voltage and current.

One more thing, power factor plays into the rating in the motor. You can have two motors on the same pump that draw different current but yet still have the same power draw because the power factor is different for each motor.
 

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mas985 said:
A VOM will give you an incorrect answer. Amps * Voltage is not real power in an induction motor, especially at low speed. You need to take into account power factor so you need a power meter or a scope to measure the phase difference between voltage and current.
Click to expand...

My plan was to measure the amp draw on each leg at the panel. Am I missing part of the equation (we should probably split this off into the deep end....)?

Long and short I agree with you on the functional cost of running the motor ... should be just about identical given the same size impeller (which all 3 are more than capable of turning) as the load will be identical. Just finished cup of coffee #2.
 
mas985 said:
Yes, you are ignoring power factor. This is the phase difference between the voltage and current and splits the power into real and reactive parts. You are charged by the real component of the power only. You can read about it here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor
Click to expand...

Excellent!

I love it when I learn something new. Thank you, I'll give it a long read this afternoon.

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frankan9 said:
my pump is wired for 230v . I'm not sure what the knock out for the bigger diameter motor looks like. I was really liking the integrated timer option on the b2975t.
Click to expand...

Ok so the STS1072RV1 and a timer if your foot doesn't have the knockout and you aren't comfortable with the dremel.

OR

B2975T

Mark,
Agreed?

Chris
 

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