What type of Tygon tubing to order

[fixit5561]

Hey guys,

My head is spinning from reading all the posts about the Liquidator.

I ordered one today from Dave and was wondering, what type of tubing do I order from US Plastics to replace the tubbing that come with it? I know it is Tygon tubing but there are so many to chose from I dont know where to even start. I know the ID/OD of the tubbing but what type of tubing is what im after?

Also what thickness of walls of the tubing should be used?

I seen also where others were having problems with flow, my CYA level in my pool is around 70 so I am keeping the FC level at the target of 8, according to the chart we all use that Ben figured out, my question is, am I going to have a problem with the flow not being able to dispense enough Chlorine into the pool to keep up my FC levels? If so any suggestions as to how I can modify it to keep the levels up?( maybe drilling out the float switches and using as larger dia. tubing?) I am on the BBB method (using 6% Ultra bleach from Aldi) right now and switched over from tri-chlor about 2 weeks ago and couldnt be happier with the results. Man am I glad I switched over!!

Thanks in advance
Brian

 

[duraleigh]

Hey, Brian,

I would suggest you first get LQ up and running with the exsisting tubing. It's free and, to my knowledge, doesn't hinder the operation of LQ in any way. By the way, did I mention it's free? :lol:

Likewise, wait and see what you get before you make plans for major modifications. Many, many (by far, the majority) folks are able to get enough flow to keep their pool chlorinated just fine. The two easiest ways to increase chlorination are to increase pump run time and to use 12% instead of bleach. One or both of these will most likely solve any issues you may have.

Lastly, I am running my FC at such a low level that (like the guy on TV) it's too low to advertise. I will add more about this at the end of this season but I feel condident enough to say that eliminating the yo-yo affect of manually dosing does seem to make chlorine more effective. As always, each pool is different so you'll have to judge what works best for you.

 

[Sabot]

I agree with Dave, get the LQ first then get use to it's operation. Tygon has a thinner wall then the stock tubing, just take care and always check up on it to ensure it does not come loose. You can buy the stock tubing at Home Depot real cheap. Use the stock tubing to configure your system before buying the expensive Tygon.


Here the info you requested tho:

57239 Tygon® UV Resistant Tubing 1/4" I.D. 3/8" O.D. and 1/16" wall

 

[fixit5561]

Hi guys,

Ok great advice, I will just install it with the hose and adapters it comes with and see how it goes from there. I am an overkill type of person so.....

I also was wondering, will it be ok to use a threaded 1/4" barb in the heater manifold drain, on the intake side of the heater, to hook up the LQ's input tube? I was going to use the drain plug on the pump side too for output side of the LQ. Does these two hook up's sound ok to you guys? I really dont want to have to drill into my 1 1/2" spa flex plumbing to install it.

Thanks again
Brian

 

[DLSDO]

I am one of the people that has been fighting hard to get the LQ to hold my FC. We have a huge bather load and direct sunlight all day. So my chlorine consumption is high. In addition, as described by Chemgeek, we have a very efficient system. Good for the pump but bad for getting good flow rates through the LQ. Our max flow rate is "3". If I close off my skimmers then the pump works harder and pulls chlorine out of the LQ @ a higher flow rate...~"4". Also the white stuff has been limiting flow.

My fix....

12% chlorine. Run pump 24/7. Lower CYA (40) to keep my FC @ 5. Keep pH ~7.2 Keep the LQ clean..acid wash periodically. Got a new flow control valve with a larger diameter. Removed the check valves. This seems to be working fairly well so far.