Hayward problems

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Mattph4716

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May 24, 2014
4
South Florida
I am having problems with my Hayward SWG not generating chlorine. I have a Swimpure system with a T15 cell. The panel is from 2008 and the cell is 1.5 years old.

I have a 15k gallon diamond bright pool. My water has been testing at:
0 chlorine
7.4 ph
60 stabilizer
120 alkalinity
0 phosphates
3300 salt

The control panel shows no error codes. Just the green light for power and generating. All of the diagnostics are good with volts and amps. Pool temp is about 90. I run the pump for 8 hours a day at 90%. Usually 40-45% keeps the chlorine at a 5.

I had the cell tested at 3 different locations. 2 of them said it was good. 1 said it failed. Unfortunately, there is only one Hayward warranty center nearby (A Pinch A Penny store) and it passed there.

I replaced the mother board just to make sure that is working. Because of that I am thinking it has to be the cell.

The only advice the pool stores or Hayward can give me is to have a Hayward authorized service company come to my house to check it. I am concerned that I am just going to waste money hiring a company to tell me nothing is wrong or they can't find a problem. Even if they say it is the cell, it seems like a scam that I have to pay for something that is under warranty.

Is it the cell or is there something I am missing here? If it is the flow sensor I am assuming there would be an error code?
 
Welcome to TFP!

Likely the SWG is fine but there is something in the water consuming it faster than the generator can make it. How does the water look?

A SWG is great at maintain FC in a clean pool, but not effective for raising the FC from zero especially if you have algae. You need to use liquid chlorine for that.

From the looks of your results, they are from a pool store which are not reliable or consistent. If you want to take control, then invest in one of the recommended test kits as described in Pool School.
 
Rinse a cup or jar and push it in the pool upside down, then flip it up in front of one of the returns when the SWG is generating. A big air bubble will escape and the cup will fill with water straight out of the SWG. Test that. Even a test strip will do for this. If it's higher than the overall pool chlorine level, the SWG is working and something is consuming your chlorine as fast as it can be generated. Two things do that: organics (including algae) and sunlight. If that CYA value is correct, it's not sunlight.

If your pool is just looking a little dull or hazy, you're very lucky. It could turn green any day. Either way, the solution is the same. We call it a SLAM.

Here's some people who didn't catch things in time.
First Time Shocking with Bleach
Pretty black pool
A little encouragement for those with algae and new to BBB
Frog Filled Green Swamp to Oasis---Work in Progress!!!
Before and After Pool Pics
Before and after!
A final picture set of how well the BBB method works!
 
The water is crystal clear. I have been treating with liquid chlorine since the SWG is not working. I dumped a gallon and a half of liquid chlorine in yesterday to shock it. As the chlorine gets low I have been putting liquid chlorine in as a temporary solution. The cell passed again this morning. Even after I shock it, the SWG won't maintain a level of chlorine.

I also use test strips and the chemicals are in balance according to those. I am not sure if it will be better just to cough up the money for a new system. If there was something in the water like algae I can't see, wouldn't the chlorine shocking kill it or do I need algaecide?
 
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I will get the materials to do the shocking and the over the night test. I think it is a problem of the cell working intermittently. Last Sunday afternoon, the chlorine was at .5. I ran it on super chlorinate through the night for about 14 hours and the chlorine was at a 4 on Monday. I ran it for 8 hours a day at 90% and it was a 0 on Friday afternoon. For the year and a half I had this pool, 40% would keep the chlorine at a 5 like clock work.
 
I put my money on something in the water. Get the FAS-DPD test kit and SLAM the pool following the process until you pass the 3 criteria to stop. Then see if the SWG well maintain the FC level.
 
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