beginner question on acceptable FC & TC

[archlbella]

I recently set up a small, seasonal-type Intex Easy Set pool- about 1,000 gallons. I've been using the 1" pucks in a floating dispenser. Purchased an extremely basic test kit and the readings that it offered seemed within the acceptable limits according to the directions.
Total Chlorine: 2.5, PH: 7.6
I'd been running the pump for about 4 hrs per day, 2 in am/ 2 in pm, which seemed like it would provide adequate turnover.

I saw some hth test strips at my big box store last weekend and picked them up because I was curious- readings from those were:
TH: 200
FC: 0
pH: 7.6
TA: 140ish
CYA: 30-50 (strips just give a range for this color)

I was worried at that zero under free chlorine and started googling... very happy to have found you guys. Monday I added some "shock" by the same manuf. as the pucks according to the bag directions and while the other readings stayed the same, the free chlorine went up to between 5 and 10. Just tested a bit ago and the FC is 5, Total chlorine is at 3+ (color matched the "3" color yellow).

Seems like 5 is ok for FC, but should I be worried about that total chlorine reading and not use the pool this weekend? Still don't completely understand TC vs CC. I've been keeping it covered to keep as much debris as possible out of it and haven't had a chance to use it since adding the "shock". Have just been looking at the test results intermittently.

I understand that this forum really promotes a different type of pool care but I'm (literally) just getting my feet wet... If you could bear with me I'd appreciate it.

Thanks much for your assistance!

 

[mrcarcrazy]

Welcome to the site!!!


Visit "pool school" tab above start with the ABC's of water Chemistry. (I had to go over it a few times to get a solid understanding). Read all of the info avail in pool school. The old saying "Knowledge is power" is never more true than when dealing with chemistry.

I'd strongly suggest you get the TF100 test kit. If you already have the ph/TC drop test kit than the TF50 would be fine. (www.tftestkits.net)

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

You'll want to run your pump much, much more than 4 hours a day with your system.

The guidelines you see in most pool care instructions don't consider the CYA level in determining good chlorine levels.

If you'll check out the Chlorine CYA Chart , you'll see that if your CYA is 50ppm, you should be maintaining at least 4ppm FC and trying for 6ppm.

We have an article on small pool care which simplifies some of the concepts. Some things that are important when you have a big pool aren't worth bothering with for a small pool, so we created the Guide for Seasonal and Temporary Pools

 

[Isaac-1]

I would suggest that you stop with the stabilized chlorine products now and switch to bleach so your CYA level does not get sky high.

Ike

 

[archlbella]

Thank you both. Any suggestions on how long to run the pump? 4 hours would be +/- 4 complete turnovers, right?

Also still wondering if TC of 3 or more is safe to swim in?

Best, Carolyn

eta: based on the seasonal pool guide, 3 or more is a good thing using the basic two-way test kit, is that right? Thx much-

 

[mrcarcrazy]

i can't comment on run times, but look @ the link John provided. TC of 3 isn't too high to swim in if that's what you're asking. Check out the CYA/FC comparison chart for an idea.

 

[rterickson]

Also still wondering if TC of 3 or more is safe to swim in?

Did you look at the Chlorine/CYA chart?

If your CYA is at 30, you don't want to ever let FC go below 2 ppm. If your CYA is closer to 50, you don't want to ever let FC go below 4 ppm.

It is safe to swim up to the shock level of FC, which depends on your CYA level (12 ppm FC for 30 CYA, 20 ppm FC for 50 CYA.

 

[archlbella]

Thanks mrcarcrazy- that answered my question.