Jandi LXI heater error msg

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wedgeiron

wedgeiron

0
May 12, 2014
21
Las Vegas Nv.
Hi Guys, Newby Here. This is my problem. I have a Jandy Model #LXI25N that the access door blow open during a bad wind and rainstorm. the pool pump was on so when I went outside to shut the pump down I noticed the PIB board had shorted out. This was last fall and I have waited until now to repair the damage. when I assessed the damage I also found the PDB board was destroyed also. I ordered both parts and installed them. With my downloaded troubleshooting Guide I checked my voltage all the way to the Black wire (L) on the PDB.... 110 volts. Everything is good but still no fan and (CHECK IGN CONTROL) error is still coming up. I am testing with the pump on and heater request on. I pulled the fan motor and it looks brand new. No visible signs or smell of damage. (Heater is less than 2 years old very clean inside, and little usage)
Here is what have i have tried so far. As my post indicates...almost everything including voltage to and from transformer, air pressure switch, water pressure switch, high limits ETC, but these are all startup stages that come after FAN START right? I have also pulled the wires going to the igniter and it tested 72.4 ohms. Also I safely discharged the capacitor on the motor and on the ohm meter it spiked up high and slowly went to “o” how do I bench test the motor? 5 wires are confusing. I do know the system is 220 volts ac
 
Just looking at the schematic for that unit...If it is wired to 240 then you should have 240 volts at the F1 & F2 terminals on the ignition control board (black wire, blue wire) Next to that there is a 24 volt terminal that comes from the transformer (red wire). Check that from that terminal to the ground wire on the board (yellow wire)

I also see a note on the sheet about a selector for the 120 to 240 conversion. Verify that that is in the correct orientation. Here is a copy from the manual.....

Converting the Heater for a 120V Power
Source
To convert the LXi heater to 120 Volt, 60 Hz AC requires
reversal of the voltage selector board on the power
distribution board. The following procedure should be
performed before the heater is connected to a power
source:
1. Identify the power distribution board on the
heater. It is located to the right of the ignition
control on the raceway. See Figure 22.
2. Cut the plastic wire tie that is holding the voltage
selector board in place and discard the wire
tie. Unplug the voltage selector board from the
receptacle. See Figure 23.
3. Rotate the voltage selector board 180° and reinsert
it into the receptacle so that the hole in the board
is not visible. Be sure that the board is securely
seated in the receptacle.

On the ignition control board, look for power from the L1 and L2 terminals. These look to be the output for the motor.
 
Yes, I have voltage to my blower motor plug at the PDB board. just no fan power. I am tying to determine if the motor and or capacitor is bad B4 I buy the new one at $400. Both the PIB and the PDB board have been replaced because they were fried :( My PDB is set to 240 vac just bas the old one was.

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L1 and L2 at the ignition control and the PDB board both are hot at 110 vac also

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I have been told the bench test on the motor is a multi step process:(

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With 5 wires on the fan motor I want to be careful
 
wedgeiron said:
Yes, I have voltage to my blower motor plug at the PDB board. just no fan power. I am tying to determine if the motor and or capacitor is bad B4 I buy the new one at $400. Both the PIB and the PDB board have been replaced because they were fried :( My PDB is set to 240 vac just bas the old one was.

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L1 and L2 at the ignition control and the PDB board both are hot at 110 vac also
Click to expand...

Does each terminal have 120 or do they have 120 when probed across them. The schematics I see do not show the power output for the motor


wedgeiron said:
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I have been told the bench test on the motor is a multi step process:(

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With 5 wires on the fan motor I want to be careful
Click to expand...

. From the schematic I see that the leads go back to some sort of junction and then to the motor.

The problem with testing the motor is that without seeing it and how it is hooked up it is hard to tell what wire(s) are being used. Generaly the white is the neutral and one of the colors is the other leg. The different colors are for different speed configurations. If you have access to the wire connections where the motor plugs in you can test for voltage there to ensure the motor is at least getting power. You may have a motor shop in your area that could check out the motor for you.
 
I am getting voltage to the Fan plug....already discharged the Capacitor and did an ohm test on that....it spiked up and slowly went to infinity. so it looks like a new Motor. hard to believe the storm did that much damage. :(

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If the pump had not been on I would not have this much damage because there is no power to heater unless the pump is on.
 
Even though items are not turned on and there is a power issue, it can still run thru equipment. If it were a power surge it can take out lots of things unless you have some sort of power surge protection.

Good luck on the motor and hopefully that is the only thing damaged in the heater.
 

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I had another person just now have me unplug F1 and F2 from the IGNITION CONTROL.....jump them together.....turn power back on and the fan came on?? he then told me I had a bad IGNITION CONTROL.....why would I have 110 at Fi AND F2 in the first place and no fan??

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this was his TOP SECRET fan BENCH TEST TRICK?
 
The capacitor is in microfarad. So you need an amp meter to read correctly. If you have power at the F1/F2 and the motor runs when jumped, I might suspect the capacitor. Of course I would just throw one on and see. It is cheaper to get that then a motor.

BTW, I don't like the Jandy units.
 
wedgeiron said:
I had another person just now have me unplug F1 and F2 from the IGNITION CONTROL.....jump them together.....turn power back on and the fan came on?? he then told me I had a bad IGNITION CONTROL.....why would I have 110 at Fi AND F2 in the first place and no fan??

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this was his TOP SECRET fan BENCH TEST TRICK?
Click to expand...

Just looked at a better schematic for this and see that the F1 and F2 seem to be tied directly to the 15 pin plug at the connection box. It seems like the F1 and F2 are some kind of switching loop for the fan. The drawing does not show which pins are jumpered together on the plug, but I suspect some of them are. This is why you are seeing 120 on those terminals.

With this, I too suspect you have a bad ign control. What ever relay inside the ign control box controls that is not turning on for some reason. Have you verified continuity thru all safety switches?
 
I downloaded this this PDF (lxi trouble shooting guide) (it will show up as the first search item) on a GOOGLE search and followed the guide on pages 6 & 7 for the LXI and it checked out.....but you know you might have something there. if the motor runs on 240 it would take a relay to send both F1 and F2 110vac to the motor at the same time to make it 220vac.....I wondered at the time when I was troubleshooting the IGNITION CONTROL how the motor was getting the 220vac.....I am going to run the complete check again......thanks....Google that guide and see if you can see your point :) Thanks
It is a pretty good guide........http://www.victormfg.com/_build/docs/prodguides/JandyPoolHeaterTroubleshootingGuides.pdf
 
wedgeiron said:
I downloaded this this PDF (lxi trouble shooting guide) (it will show up as the first search item) on a GOOGLE search and followed the guide on pages 6 & 7 for the LXI and it checked out.....but you know you might have something there. if the motor runs on 240 it would take a relay to send both F1 and F2 110vac to the motor at the same time to make it 220vac.....I wondered at the time when I was troubleshooting the IGNITION CONTROL how the motor was getting the 220vac.....I am going to run the complete check again......thanks....Google that guide and see if you can see your point :) Thanks
It is a pretty good guide........http://www.victormfg.com/_build/docs/prodguides/JandyPoolHeaterTroubleshootingGuides.pdf
Click to expand...


It does not look like the motor receives 240. I was just re-reading thru this and noted something. You stated in a previous post... I had another person just now have me unplug F1 and F2 from the IGNITION CONTROL.....jump them together. Are you sure it was the F1 and F2?
This should have caused a dead short between the two legs of the 240 and tripped a breaker. Was it maybe the L1 and L2 wires?

Just wondering...what is the power reading on the L1 and L2 terminals when the wires are unhooked
 

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