Fresh Meat

[MichaelJTritter]

Ok, so pool newbie here, I've been reading this forum for the past week or so to get information and the like. This place really is full of knowledge! So with that said, let me tell you a little bit about my situation. I just bought a place about six months ago, it came with an above ground pool that has not been used in a few years. I pulled the cover off yesterday, and not to my surprise, I was greeted with an algae infested cesspit. The algae is a fairly dark green, it's not to the black lagoon stage.

I ordered a Taylor K-2006 tester, as that seems to be the most highly recommended tester, I also got 10 pounds of Chlorine. Based on what I read online at: http://www.zodiacpoolsystems.com/Media/Pool-Articles/How-to-fix-a-Green-Swimming-Pool.aspx I would need 4 pounds of Chlorine to correct the issue. I know it takes alot of Chlorine to kill organic material, so would it benefit me to invest in an algaecide to help clear up the algae? Pool is a light to dark green. I know I need to clean my baskets out and the like prior to beginning this as well.

Is it pointless for me to test the water prior to shocking since it's soo far gone?

Also, what is the proper pressure for the filter to run at? What pressure would indicate I need to back wash it?

Thanks for helping a pool newbie out,
Michael

 

[Casey]

Dear Fresh Meat I mean Mike... Good for you on ordering the K2006. It will get the job done. The TF100 is a better value with more regents so when you need a refill, get them at tftestkits.net. If you read Pool School, you'll see we use unscented bleach as it will not add additives to the pool. I would pay particular attention to clearing your swamp.

Test your pH,Ta and CYA and SLAM the pool. If you need help, ask questions!

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

Hold on there ... we rarely if ever suggest adding any chlorine that you measure by the pound. You should use liquid chlorine and follow the SLAM Process to clear up your pool. But, you should not add anything until you get your kit and test the water to see what you are starting with.

Forget the algaecide, that is better at at helping lower the risk of algae starting and is not effective at getting rid of it.

What kind of filter do you have? You should clean it when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:

ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool

BTW, order refills for you kit now. The K-2006 does not come with enough for the FAS-DPD test which is why we recommend the TF-100 as a better deal. You will need more R-0870 and R-0871 ... and some more of the CYA reagent (R-0013) while you are at it.

 

[Isaac-1]

I just wanted to say hi and welcome

 

[MichaelJTritter]

Thanks. I read online prior to buying a tester and it seems people were recommending the 2006 very highly, so I went with that.

I did actually read some of Pool School, I have a super short attention span for things, but I did read over testing/water chemistry, as well as the information pool filters.

I read on under pool school: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/126-defeating-algae. What I had planned on doing was following the amount suggested in the link I gave in the previous post, and dissolving the chlorine in a five gallon bucket with some warm water - as that seems to be the most effective way based on what I read throughout doing my own research. But according to the SLAM link in Pool School, it looks like I will need to test for CYA, my pool is also a non-SWG pool. So perhaps I should test before I do anything or is that pointless because of how it looks? It's a fairly dark green.

 

[jblizzle]

You need to test first.
If your CYA is already too high, then you need to drain water first. If it is range, then you can not use dichlor or trichlor.
If your CH is too high, you may want to drain water. If it is in range, then you can not use any cal-hypo.

What specifically did you buy 10 pounds of? It will either add CYA or CH with the chlorine. This is why we recommend liquid chlorine / bleach ... there are not bad side-effects (and it is usually cheaper).

FYI, You should stop reading information about pools anywhere besides this forum. Assuming you want to follow our methods, reading and getting advice elsewhere is often contradictory and confusing.

 

[MichaelJTritter]

Thanks for the warm welcome.

I have a Jacuzzi 190L filter.

This is what I bought: http://www.poolproducts.com/SPP/product_family.asp?family_id=1750- it's not like it bothers me if I got the wrong stuff as I'll use it later on anyways.

I will look into getting more reagants.

 

[Isaac-1]

What Jason said, particularly the mix and matching bits of advice. The problem is not so much that the other people are wrong (although given our experience they often are), but instead this is a bit like taking automotive repair advice online on how to change the starter on your car, with one set of advice telling how to do it from below the car on a lift, and the other saying how to do it top down from the hood. You mix and match steps and who knows maybe the whole engine will fall out.

 

[jblizzle]

Your link is pulling up a blank page ... what are the ingredients?

 

[MichaelJTritter]

It is: 99% Trichloro-S-Triazinetroine

 

[Casey]

Read Pool School and follow TFPC. You can't go wrong by implementing our practices. It gets hairy when you try to mix and match. You're going yo have to test everything to see where all your levels are!

 

[jblizzle]

OK, so trichlor adds stabilizer which is bad when it gets too high. So, you should not use it at all until you know what your CYA level is. It will last for a LONG time if you keep it dry, so eventually you may be able to use it.

 

[MichaelJTritter]

Ah ok, well, when my test kit comes in (I ordered it online as we have no pool places out here), I will test it and look up what to do from there. I guess I can work on hooking up the pump and filter tonight, plus I need to add water anyways to it (as it's below the inlet/outlet for the filter)

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

Fresh meat is a pool-store term

We think of you as a lump of clay, that we can mold into a knowledgeable pool owner.

You might be able to use that powdered chlorine. It just depends on what readings you get when you test the water when your new kit arrives. The K-2006 uses the same reagents as the TF100, they're just not in realistic quantities. They're packaged in quantities that fit in that nifty blue box. The point being, the video instructions for the TF100 will also work for you.

If, by chance, your CYA test doesn't seem to work, don't just dump out the sample. Stop and read Extended Test Kit Directions.

 

[MichaelJTritter]

I was in the Military, so that is a term we used as well.

You know what, if I can't use it now, likelihood is that I can loose it later. Once I get the tester, I'll test for a baseline and can see what needs to be done. It's pretty gross lol.

 

[MichaelJTritter]

Posted elsewhere in the right forun