Been using Baquacil for 6 summers. Time to try BBB

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Scottc72

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LifeTime Supporter
May 11, 2014
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Caddo Mills, Texas (Near Dallas)
I've been using Baquacil since buying my pool in '07, and up to last summer, had no "major" issues until I started getting the reddish algae all over. I've also been using Endure for about 3 summers, but even with it too was not able to stop the algae. emptied my wallet quickly trying to get it clear, but as soon as I thought I was in good shape, here came the red stuff back again!! I've had my pool uncovered all winter; just lowered the water below the skimmer and put the pump/filter assembly in my shed. BTW, I have a 24' round by 52" above ground, vinyl liner of course, using a Pro-clean Waterway 200 sq ft cart filter and 2 speed 1.5 HP pump.
The water has stayed pretty clear, other than the red algae and dirt/debris on the bottom. No leaves, as I have no trees near the pool. One of my concerns about the conversion is that I just bought another new cart filter at $100 because my old one had a tear in it. So, am I still going to be able to use the filter after the conversion? Or will I have to purchase yet another? I just ordered my TF-100 test kit with two of the XL options, borate test strips, and the magnetic stirrer. Should have it around Tuesday or Wednesday, hopefully. I went ahead and poured two 121 oz bottle of bleach in the pool, and it immediately turned to a emerald green color. How often should I have to rinse the filter, and is just rinsing it going to be enough? I have a standby sand filter I can plumb in, but I didn't want to lower the pool water level with backwashing too much. We are on water restrictions, so I can't constantly refill the pool. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Looks like you've been doing your homework, great!

Congrats on the test kit etc.

From what you wrote, I am assuming you've been reading in Pool School about your conversion.

I'm not sure, but it may be possible to clean all the baqua out of the filter element, but one thing makes me unsure about that. Sand filters usually need the sand replaced after the change. I've not read anything that would indicate the same would be true of a cart. You may have to forever (until you replace) use the baquaclean on your filter every time, in case there are residuals in the media.
 
Watch the pressure gauge on the filter. When it rises 20% over the clean pressure its time to clean the cartridge. You will need to change out the cartridge after the conversion is completed.
 
Thanks Charlie_R and zea3 for the info. Just got home and the filter pressure (started at 10) was already up about 40% (up to 14). Took it out and rinsed the slime out of it, put it back in and it started at 11. Wow. I'm concerned that I may have to buy many more cartridges. Wondering if I should use the sand filter instead for this process. :confused: Also, is there a benefit to running both a sand filter and cartridge filter together, or is that too much for the pump to handle? Ever heard from anyone doing that? I'm not too familiar with the sand filter. I bought it from a fella who was tearing down his old pool just in case I needed it. Not even sure how much sand it takes...there are no labels on the tank. It's fairly small; stands about 24" tall without the six-way valve, and about 20" in diameter.
 
A better idea for the early stages of the conversion would be to switch the filer to re circulation and bypass all together. You will end up cleaning the filter VERY frequently at the start. Water circulation is need more at first over filtering the water anyways. Best thing you can do is to brush and brush often!!
 

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Well, decided not to drain any water after all. I just got my test kit yesterday, and immediately used it.
TF100 test kit.jpg
Water temp approx. 72 deg
PH 7.5 ; FC 2.5 ; CC 6 ; TA 120 Calcium Hardness 375 ; CYA 0 ; Borate 80
these tests were done about 3:00 PM

Added 2 gallons of 8.25% bleach at 3:30, and tested again at 5:45 and the chlorine was only 3!!!
 
I bought 6 lbs of CYA and put half of it in a skimmer sock and hung it in the throat of the skimmer. I ran out of bleach yesterday, but surprisingly, when I tested the FC level at 4:00 PM today, it reads 2 with both the drop test and OT test. Does that mean anything? And if I added 2 gal of bleach yesterday and only brought FC level up by 1 in a little over 2 hrs, does that mean I'm not adding enough bleach, or is it using it up that quickly?
 
For now take the cya out of the water. The chlorine will be able to "attack" the baqua goo better when the cya is zero. In the beginning the conversion does use ALOT of bleach. It was often after we raised our FC level to 15 that we retested and the chlorine level was down to 3-4.
 
Scottc72 - Welcome! I am also in the process of converting my pool to chlorine. I'm a few days in and my water is already starting to look good (looks good but not finished with my conversion that is). Just to clarify, you want to raise your FC (free chlorine) level up to 15 ppm. This is the shock value. The thing is, the sunlight and baquacil will consume it quickly and your FC level will drop. It is important to check your FC level as often as every couple hours, even more often if it's a sunny day. You want to continually add chlorine when it drops to get it back up to 15 ppm. This is to what's referred to as the 'SLAM'. Shock-Level and Maintain...meaning maintain that shock level. Hope this helps! Good luck with your conversion!

-Joe
 

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